Clarke2744

Reg private messaged to you - Many thanks.

This is interesting - thanks very much for your reply. I’ve just checked front & rear near side lights, no signs of corrosion or evidence of being wet on either. However the front side light isn’t working, the bulb is fine and having changed for a new one it still doesn’t work, whilst the fuse is fine. Not having a multi meter with me I can’t check too much until the weekend, but would this point at all towards the onboard supply control unit?

Good afternoon all, Rather an odd experience for my Fabia VRS today... Update so far - Last week, driving to work for ~100 miles, the battery/charge light starts flickering then comes on steady. This follows by the bulb fail light appearing (later discover fuse F34 has failed) Alternator presumed at fault, having measured output from it at ~12v, and across the battery at 11.8v (expecting ~14) with the engine running. Alternator replaced with new 90A Lucas unit. Battery/charge light remains, but output from new alternator now ~14v, at it and the battery terminals. Battery/charge light clears once 5A Fuse F34 replaced... All is well and normal with the car for a week. Today, a week later towards the latter part of the same drive, I notice the windscreen wipers are still running despite being off at the stalk. Playing round with the stalk the results with the battery light starts flickering then remains. Then the bulb fail light comes on. (Fuse F34 blown again on later diagnostics) Assuming this perhaps is all due to the battery being completely knackered (I've never changed this in the 8years and 110k miles traveled since Ive owned the car) - I replace the battery. On replacing battery, and replacing F34, the lights remain/wiper still running rogue but this time in a different pattern: Headlights/Side lights on = No battery/charge light. Headlights/Side lights off = Battery/charge light and sometimes bulb fail light (but it hasnt blown fuse yet..) Rear wiper on, front off = Front wipers behave as requested (off) Rear wiper off, front off = Front wipers run constant. All the above seem very odd and I cant find anything similar searching the forum other than the battery charge light potentially being due to the alternator load wiper being at fault (Haven't yet checked this). Anyone have any suggestions on the way ahead to fix this? From what Ive read if it was the alternator load wire, I'd likely see a traction control light too? Many thanks in advance/enjoy the chaotic electronic goings on above! Ben

Good evening all. I’ve recently installed the connects 2 CTASKBT001 box to the CD autochanger input into my symphony radio. It works really well in general… however recently after about an hour of driving the radio will randomly jump back to FM radio instead of ‘CD’. Bluetooth connection can be selected again by pressing CD, but then this starts to happen more frequently, repeating every 5mins or so. May help with diagnostics, but I notice when this starts occurring, where the screen displays, for example ‘TR 1’, an 8 in between TR and 1 will start slightly flickering. Is anyone else using the CTASKBT001 box, and have they experienced anything similar to this - and therefore have any suggestions to fix this irritating issue, before I contact Connects 2? ….other than this the system works brilliantly, allowing hands free phone input, USB charging and (generally) reliable Bluetooth sound/voice connection. thanks, Ben

Having sorted this now, for info to anyone else doing this in future - hard pipe is 3/16 4.75 with a DIN flare. Union is metric M10x1.

And the size?

Afternoon all, I need to replace the rear axle beam on my car - unfortunately the left side brake pipe Union is putting up one hell of a fight/near enough doesn’t exist due to 19years of corrosion. This leads me to likely needing to replace the whole brake pipe back to the servo/engine bay or at least replacing the unions either side of the flexi pipe section. That said what size are the unions that screw into the flexi pipe - a while googling suggests M10x1, is this correct? And the pipe gauge being 3/16 SAE 4.75mm? Additionally, without wanting to come across too cowboy.. what’s the general feeling about either joining a new section of pipe to the existing length that goes back to the engine bay, removing the need to replace the whole length with complex bends. Or just replacing the dead Union itself, and reflaring the end of the existing pipe, bending it appropriately to reach the flexi pipe with now very slightly shorter reach? thanks, Ben

Team - bit of gen to summarise how I got mine working (probably obvious). T11a pin 10 ONLY (for my pre may 2004 car) DONT try and piggy back or an ignition wire from the fuse box, this caused a P1689 code for me - use the brake T4d pedal plug, pin 2 as the wiring diagram says and it works!…. Obvious stuff I know. Ensure you cycle the ignition having activated it via the OBD. Very many thanks to Breezy_Pete for his time and wealth of knowledge.

Thanks very much for that! Mega useful. Although now back to changing the pins around 🤦🏼‍♂️

Really sorry to restart this post again. I’ve got to a bit of a dead end, I’ve a 2004 VRS, and have wired the male pin to T11b (hole6) the multi pin to XS3, and then piggybacked into the rear wiper fuse for the ignition supply. I get no errors codes and have the G to show I’ve successfully activated the control via OBD Eleven. I know the instructions also mention T11a, but then cars without that side of the block to use T11b - would this still work on my car despite having both?? (I got lazy - 11b was ‘much’ easier to access) If the T11b is fine, then I’m concerned it’s also a stalk issue, as I sources a second hand genuine one on Facebook. Anyone able to confirm that I can use either T11a or T11b for the male pin, before I source a new stalk?

Does seem very unclear… majority on AutoDoc, having searched for 6Q0423803 seem to be ~276mm length, particularly the TRW/Febi manufactured components.

That was careless.

It certainly is quite entertaining, it’s also quite satisfying now having the feedback to perfectly balance the car to be just on the edge of it. As many have mentioned, good rear tyres when it’s wet are a must!

Another 👍🏻👍🏻 For the Whiteline RARB, I’ve had it on mine for the last 5years. The powder coat finish works well with no rust etc. Transformed the turn in, the positive feel of the front end and the way the car handles. Just much better balanced and you can finally really drive it through corners without the understeer of before. I’ve also got the Cupra front bushes combined with poly bushes elsewhere and it handles on rails in comparison to before the ‘mods’ - one of those ‘how it should have left the factory’ cases. The only minor negative is you’ll notice is if you take a speed bump at an angle - the rear is mighty stiff now! Oh, and as Vindaloo suggests above, watch out for the inherent lift off oversteer!! Enjoy!