Clarke2744

Good evening all. I’ve recently installed the connects 2 CTASKBT001 box to the CD autochanger input into my symphony radio. It works really well in general… however recently after about an hour of driving the radio will randomly jump back to FM radio instead of ‘CD’. Bluetooth connection can be selected again by pressing CD, but then this starts to happen more frequently, repeating every 5mins or so. May help with diagnostics, but I notice when this starts occurring, where the screen displays, for example ‘TR 1’, an 8 in between TR and 1 will start slightly flickering. Is anyone else using the CTASKBT001 box, and have they experienced anything similar to this - and therefore have any suggestions to fix this irritating issue, before I contact Connects 2? ….other than this the system works brilliantly, allowing hands free phone input, USB charging and (generally) reliable Bluetooth sound/voice connection. thanks, Ben

Having sorted this now, for info to anyone else doing this in future - hard pipe is 3/16 4.75 with a DIN flare. Union is metric M10x1.

And the size?

Afternoon all, I need to replace the rear axle beam on my car - unfortunately the left side brake pipe Union is putting up one hell of a fight/near enough doesn’t exist due to 19years of corrosion. This leads me to likely needing to replace the whole brake pipe back to the servo/engine bay or at least replacing the unions either side of the flexi pipe section. That said what size are the unions that screw into the flexi pipe - a while googling suggests M10x1, is this correct? And the pipe gauge being 3/16 SAE 4.75mm? Additionally, without wanting to come across too cowboy.. what’s the general feeling about either joining a new section of pipe to the existing length that goes back to the engine bay, removing the need to replace the whole length with complex bends. Or just replacing the dead Union itself, and reflaring the end of the existing pipe, bending it appropriately to reach the flexi pipe with now very slightly shorter reach? thanks, Ben

Team - bit of gen to summarise how I got mine working (probably obvious). T11a pin 10 ONLY (for my pre may 2004 car) DONT try and piggy back or an ignition wire from the fuse box, this caused a P1689 code for me - use the brake T4d pedal plug, pin 2 as the wiring diagram says and it works!…. Obvious stuff I know. Ensure you cycle the ignition having activated it via the OBD. Very many thanks to Breezy_Pete for his time and wealth of knowledge.

Thanks very much for that! Mega useful. Although now back to changing the pins around 🤦🏼‍♂️

Really sorry to restart this post again. I’ve got to a bit of a dead end, I’ve a 2004 VRS, and have wired the male pin to T11b (hole6) the multi pin to XS3, and then piggybacked into the rear wiper fuse for the ignition supply. I get no errors codes and have the G to show I’ve successfully activated the control via OBD Eleven. I know the instructions also mention T11a, but then cars without that side of the block to use T11b - would this still work on my car despite having both?? (I got lazy - 11b was ‘much’ easier to access) If the T11b is fine, then I’m concerned it’s also a stalk issue, as I sources a second hand genuine one on Facebook. Anyone able to confirm that I can use either T11a or T11b for the male pin, before I source a new stalk?

Does seem very unclear… majority on AutoDoc, having searched for 6Q0423803 seem to be ~276mm length, particularly the TRW/Febi manufactured components.

That was careless.

It certainly is quite entertaining, it’s also quite satisfying now having the feedback to perfectly balance the car to be just on the edge of it. As many have mentioned, good rear tyres when it’s wet are a must!

Another 👍🏻👍🏻 For the Whiteline RARB, I’ve had it on mine for the last 5years. The powder coat finish works well with no rust etc. Transformed the turn in, the positive feel of the front end and the way the car handles. Just much better balanced and you can finally really drive it through corners without the understeer of before. I’ve also got the Cupra front bushes combined with poly bushes elsewhere and it handles on rails in comparison to before the ‘mods’ - one of those ‘how it should have left the factory’ cases. The only minor negative is you’ll notice is if you take a speed bump at an angle - the rear is mighty stiff now! Oh, and as Vindaloo suggests above, watch out for the inherent lift off oversteer!! Enjoy!

Not sure about a cheap replacement, however this happened to me accelerating out of a fuel station onto a dual carriage way... all a bit embarrassing. Mine was the pipe going into the top of the intercooler, from the plastic hard pipe. Fortunately I managed to make it to a TPS dealer who had the pipe in stock!! Cost around £40. I’m sure the pipes could be found cheaper on eBay, but that sorted me as an instant fix.

Thanks for your help all. Having read just about every forum review/fitting guide I think I can get away with fitting the cupra ones using a bearing removal kit borrowed from work (if they’ll let me!!) so that saves money buying the special vag tool. Have also read more reviews mentioning how the powerflex/poly consuls can become noisy and very harsh. So, I’ve bought a Powerflex Bush (PFF85-201) for the front of the wishbone, hope that and the cupra bush on the rear will be a good mix. Shall let you know how I get on!!

Good evening all, having searched the forums for info on uprating the consul bushes on my mk1 VRS I’ve short listed down to either Powerflex PFF85-602 or the OEM Ibiza Cupra solid rubber bushes 6LL407183. Ive read about the cupra bushes being hard to fit, and would require a special tool realistically. The powerflex being easier to fit, but some topics have mentioned about them wearing quickly (despite the warranty) because of the inner part rotating within the outer part of the bush. Also have read about them being quite loud, I assume transmit more road noise and engine vibration? Although the cuppa bushes are a fair bit cheaper, once you’ve bought the fitting tool they end up around the same price as the power flex bushes, so that doesn’t really set them apart in the long run. Can anyone help me out with any experience of the two consul bushes, not just from fitting point of view but also how they perform on the road and in the long run, as I really can’t decide which to go with! Many thanks, Ben

Have a browse around on here; https://skoda.7zap.com/en/cz/fabia/fab/2007-453/3/ Or are they what you mean by the vague diagrams? Hope that helps!