JonBRapid
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Posts posted by JonBRapid
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Different wheels… old chamalot’s for sale!
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What battery should I get to replace my current one? Can I upgrade it?
2013 Rapid 1.2 tsi (105) elegance green tech (stop/start)
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On 31/03/2022 at 09:20, chrisgreen said:
You don’t need a multimeter. We already know that the two fuses I mentioned are 12v feeds. You just need to decide if you want the dash cam to turn on & off with the car ignition (this is the recommended option for a dash cam, in which case use the rear wiper fuse) or if you want the dash cam to stay on 24 hours a day (not recommended given the drain on your battery, in which case use the 12v accessory socket fuse, which also remains on even when the ignition is off and the car is locked).
You can say, “I told you so….”
I test + for covid and so my wife goes away with the kids and parks the car next to the caravan they’re staying in for a couple of day and then I get a phone call saying the car won’t open!
🫣oops… so I guess I’ll be finding the switched fuse tomorrow and putting the battery on charge!
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15 hours ago, 67igor1 said:
no... That's tracker job
im told that an apple AirTag is better alternative 😜 -
49 minutes ago, 67igor1 said:
I do like it very much... First as DVR (front and rear), second as rear view mirror and backup camera. On top of that as CCTV ...
Can you access it remotely?
I’ve been more aware of the car when I’ve been parked and heard noises and thought that to access it remotely would be a nice touch. Then I was offered the blackvue which does that
thinking I might be paranoid!
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11 hours ago, 67igor1 said:
I use that because... size of micro SD and recorded quality
That looks good.
I didn’t want to spend a load of money on it as not sure we need one really but now see the benefit.
I guess it’s like cctv at home, you hope you don’t need to use it.
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40 minutes ago, 67igor1 said:
What's about that?
Memory card 128GB
the one I got was the co-pilot cpdvr3 for £20 plus the p&p, plus the hardwire kit at £10 and £8 memory card. -
So the story continues…
my wife went out in the car today and doesn’t like the blue tint to the mirror or the fact it vibrates.
the solution comes in the form of a second hand blackvue system that I should get in a few weeks time.
I’ll put the first camera down as a dry run and use it for any vehicles we borrow.
watch this space.
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So I’m happy with the outside look of our black rapid and have played with the audio system but one area I’ve been disappointed with is the seats in the rapid elegance.
I’ve heard some people have done seat covers. Has anyone done a seat swap?
Secondly, I’m wondering about a steering wheel swap/upgrade, again does anyone have any experience in doing this?
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2 hours ago, 67igor1 said:
For CCTV option you should get 12V permanent, 12V ACC and ground (somewhere under dash). When CCTV is active you should get menu to set up time and frame rate (1frame/sec, 2 frames/sec)...
Good direction but make sure your car battery will hold it...
I checked with a test probe/light that that fuse was permanent live. Ground to a big nut behind the dash.
My current issue is that the handbook had a discrepancy in regards to maximum micro sd size, stating 32 gb but the bigger the better, so I went and bought a 128gb and of course it doesn’t work. Now waiting for Jeff B to deliver a 32gb max endurance one that I’d cancelled after reading the hand book!
indidnt get round to running the rear view camera this afternoon. Gonna wait for a warmer day.
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So, relatively straight forward to install. The kit came with a little orange but of plastic.
I put a couple of zip ties on the cable in the headliner to help keep them up there (read it on the internet that they help).
I just need to run the rear view camera now. Same, same but different
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1 hour ago, chrisgreen said:
You don’t need a multimeter. We already know that the two fuses I mentioned are 12v feeds. You just need to decide if you want the dash cam to turn on & off with the car ignition (this is the recommended option for a dash cam, in which case use the rear wiper fuse) or if you want the dash cam to stay on 24 hours a day (not recommended given the drain on your battery, in which case use the 12v accessory socket fuse, which also remains on even when the ignition is off and the car is locked).
ah, that makes sense now. Sorry I’d miss read the 12v accessory socket bit. The kit I’m getting has parking recording and a box that monitors the draw. So, I’ll go for the 12v accessory one. Thanks again. -
6 hours ago, chrisgreen said:
For a switched 12v, piggy back off the rear wiper fuse
if you want permanent live (still on after the ignition goes off), piggy back off the fuse for the 12v accessory socket.
Exact fuse locations are listed in the fuse diagram in your manual.
Thanks Chris, you are alway a great source of knowledge.
Without a multi meter how do I know which ones are permanent live?
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Hello,
So, like buses working on my rapid seems to come in pairs!
This week has seem the purchase of some Savio 17” wheels in black, which needed a good clean, polish, gtecniq c5 wheel armour, swapping some tyres and getting them balanced.
I’ve also been thinking of getting a dash camera and rather than spend lots of money, I opted for the co-pilot CPDVR3 Mirror cover camera and I’ve bought a hardwire kit so it’ll work when the car is parked.
my question is has anyone fitted one and can anyone advise which fuse to piggyback for constant 12v live.
if not I’ll take some photos and pop it up on here.
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So I need new disks and pads...
Advice please... Willing to upgrade but not sure where to start... Is it worth is?
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Hi, is a custom job as there is nit enough demand. There used to be a company called I. C. E and they hand your car for a few days and made the mould.
It cost a bit more than I wanted to pay so stuck with an alpine 8" box https://www.alpine.co.uk/p/Products/SingleView/SBG-844BR
I then bought a jl audio 12" https://www.jlaudio.com/collections/car-audio-subwoofer-systems-basswedge/products/cp112-w0v3-car-audio-basswedge-subwoofer-systems-93281
There is still loads of room with the jl box - which is big!
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On 02/05/2020 at 19:29, Defblade said:
I'm (still) planning on doing something very similar - it's the clever bit on the stereo that scares me. Does it throw warnings with the Bit10d?? Did you have them coded out?
I was planning on getting on the stereo this week, but had given up with lockdown as I wouldn't be able to travel to a coder...
Carista throws up a fault code but nothing visually.
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3 hours ago, Bling79 said:
Hi how did you connect sub to back of unit thanks
So Oxford car audio did an awesome job. They took the high-level signal from the headunit (rns315) to the audison bit 10d (dsp), which then de-eqs the factory signal sends the time corrected/eq'd signal to the amps, using rca cable running each speaker active :)
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Yeah, it's a bit of a faf! I had the bones 3 but then found out the rapid will only take 2 bikes.... Hey oh!
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Alpine....
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On 28/02/2019 at 18:08, MickA said:
Might be a bit of a fruitless ask but here goes?
Ok mine's the Toledo but wandering if any Rapid or even Toledo owners have experienced this....
My climate system sometimes starts off blasting out hot air instead of cold or cooler air no matter what setting I have the dial on. I say sometimes, it's a random thing, no matter what I turn the dial to it won't turn down, I have to stop the car switch off then start up again then we are back to normal operation like resetting the system. Everything to do with the heating cooling system seems to be working fine but for this random heat thing. I keep the climate (in Auto mode) all the time summer/winter and just adjust to suit if I need more heat or cool and or direct direct air to clear the screen etc.
Where would I start looking to determine the fault, atm I don't know whether it would be the control panel, under the dash control (flaps) or a faulty sensor somewhere?
I'd say at present it's happened around 6 times over a period of 4 months, so not a major headache at present.
I have the same thing happen, take the key out and start it up again and it's fine... I've checked and there is a module that has an intermittent fault to do with the fan setting... I looked up the cost and being out of warranty decided not to look in to any further - so I'm interested in what you find out!
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10 hours ago, WolfyWesty said:
Ah, I saw one of those on Aliexpress but didn't fancy the 40 day delivery time. Good to see a proper branded one (and at a decent price!)
Which SEAT Leon one did you get? I was looking at the Maxton Splitter but didn't fancy sending £130 on something I might not like!
I wanna say mk 3 cupra cost £45 from the main dealer but needed a little bit of adjusting....
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1 hour ago, BerkeDis said:
Actually I’m living in Turkey and its very popular in herr. Name this splitter is “ez-lip”. Soft plastic, cant broke.
Go for the rubber version as anything else (carbon effect) peal very quickly. I've had the Maxton splitter and have an old seat leon one on now as the Maxton stuck out so far I kept smashing it on kerbs.
Battery replacement/upgrade?
in Skoda Rapid & Spaceback (2012 > )
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Sadly went to kwikfit when it needed replacing last time as they were the only place open at the time. So I’m not convinced I have the right one in there… it’s an AGM but 027?