Jump to content
READ ME - iOS Notifications - How To Enable - Guide

JonBRapid

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    564

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Posts posted by JonBRapid

    Rapid 1.2TSi (105) Remap

    in Skoda Rapid & Spaceback (2012 > )

    Posted

    11 hours ago, camelspyyder said:

    It would be easier to read if the Bhp and torque scales were at opposite ends of the graph, but it shows a good increase in power and torque. I'm not sure if this Beetle engine is identical to an Ibiza/Toledo/Rapid/Fabia one, but Google list of VW engines will clarify that. One thing I've never seen on these graphs is an extension of the rev range. The 1.2 with it's tiny turbo seems to run out of puff at 6000. Even the graphs for Revo's 144bhp drop dead at the same revs as stock.

     

    EDIT: Wiki says all are EA111 8v chain-cam CBZB (105PS) engines - allso in Polo Mk5 Golf Mk6 Octy Yeti Audi A1 blah blah blah.

     

     

    The torque on the performance remap looks loads more than the Celtic tune...

    Rapid 1.2TSi (105) Remap

    in Skoda Rapid & Spaceback (2012 > )

    Posted

    14 minutes ago, camelspyyder said:

    Display shows 3 lines per run. I'm thinking, Power at wheels, Power at Crank, Torque.

     

    To see how quick these chipped 1.2 are search on youtube.

     

    Also I have seen stock Rapid 1.2/105 engines dyno'd at 116PS by Czech magazines before now.

     

    Revo offer more outright power I think, but for sheer value Racechip offer +14bhp +35Nm for Euro149 with a tuning box instead of map.

     

     

     

     

    To my eyes the map looks quite smooth. My understanding of the tuning box was they mimic the original curve - but I could be very mislead on that.

    Rapid 1.2TSi (105) Remap

    in Skoda Rapid & Spaceback (2012 > )

    Posted

    10 minutes ago, camelspyyder said:

    Display shows 3 lines per run. I'm thinking, Power at wheels, Power at Crank, Torque.

     

    To see how quick these chipped 1.2 are search on youtube.

     

    Also I have seen stock Rapid 1.2/105 engines dyno'd at 116PS by Czech magazines before now.

     

    Revo offer more outright power I think, but for sheer value Racechip offer 14bhp for Euro149 with a tuning box instead of map.

     

     

     

     

    The reason I’m thinking about the remap is because the white one we had felt so much quicker than the black one! I was wondering if it had been remapped and thus the difference in feel. Does the greentech version have a different map? Or was the white one running more power like the one you mentioned...

    Rapid 1.2TSi (105) Remap

    in Skoda Rapid & Spaceback (2012 > )

    Posted

    So have been thinking a lot about a remap... here is a sample graph from the dyno that PerformanceRemap showed me of their stage 1 for the 1.2 TSi (105)...

     

    I'm no expert so what are peoples thoughts/observations?

     

    From what I can see the 105 actually had 109bhp to start with. And I'm wondering about the flat spot around 4000rpm in both the BHP and torque?

     

    I realize this is a silly question but what would the difference be.... post map, drive wise?

    dynoresult.jpg

    Serviceable/Replaceable items...

    in Skoda Rapid & Spaceback (2012 > )

    Posted

    Hi,

     

    I'm about to take my 2013 Skoda Rapid 1.2TSI Elegance Greentech in for it's 5th Service.

     

    My duties to Skoda main dealers are no longer required so I'm looking to get it serviced properly and take it to a local performance specialist.

     

    The car is about to do 45000 miles and had a brake fluid change in 2016.

     

    So, do I get a fuel filter, spark plugs, air filter and what other easy replacement items should I or could I get done?

     

     

    Battery Charging Question.

    in Skoda Rapid & Spaceback (2012 > )

    Posted

    On 11/01/2018 at 20:34, camelspyyder said:

    It also says dont jump start in that configuration but SWMBO was late for work so I just jump started her motor then worried about mine later.

     

    The stop start and every thing else still worked - phew!

    I've done the same, both charging (not using the - terminal but the lift bracket) and I've also done the other way when jumpstarting it... fortunately no problems!

     

    Phillips Ultinon LED

    in Skoda Rapid & Spaceback (2012 > )

    Posted

    2 hours ago, wolf89 said:

    If installed correctly it still runs afoul of what the goddamn manufacturer EXPLICITLY states on the packaging, so how you install it is beside the point. Hell, the site you linked says the same - those are for off-road use only, so unless you want to risk a ticket or potential issues during your next MOT - grab something road legal (ie the PIAA Xtreme).

     

    How're they on the longevity/durability front, because my dad's on his second Osram Nightbreaker set already?

     

    I'm getting about 12 months... They normally go around October - when it starts getting darker earlier  ;)

     

    • Thanks 1

    Rear mounted cycle carrier

    in Skoda Rapid & Spaceback (2012 > )

    Posted

    On 03/12/2017 at 13:35, RMurphy195 said:

    I can vouch for these, use one on the MX5, not tried on the Rapid yet. How do you get on with the spoiler on the tailgate - Hatch Huggers? And around the sides (avoiding the glass edges)

    Hatch huggers - yep, adds a few minutes poking them through but otherwise it's great... I have the saloon looking rapid so it's sits on the bumper top (I have a plastic protector) The arms miss the spoiler and it's proper sturdy. I then put the two bikes on and lock them to bones through the middle of the rack.

    Do I need an alternator upgrade?

    in Audio, Electronics and Security

    Posted

    On 06/08/2017 at 23:06, jronnquist said:

    Again, thank you very much for this. I actually have a separate power feed running to each amp with 60A fuses in them, so I guess that's even less reason to worry. 

    Hi, your 60amp fuse might be a little high... are there any fuses in your amps???  if so your fuse should be that value otherwise you'll blow the fuse in the amp before the fuse next to the battery goes. I run one cable (with a fuse really close to the battery) then split this closer to the amps using a fused box. 

    Setting amplifier gain on a sub

    in Audio, Electronics and Security

    Posted

    Hi not sure how your getting on with the set-up... Have a look on youtube at setting up an amp using a multimeter... download JL Audio or JBL app on it they have calculator tools to help you work ou the rms watts and volts (saves you from doing the maths!) download a high-quality frequency tones 50hz, 80hz, 1k and a full sweep and some different varieties of music from police, phill colins, some D&B from LTJ Bukem a bit of pop and some classical and see how it sounds :)

     

    Peak watts is a load of rubbish, my JL-Audio C3's are powered by a 55w Alpine amp (ok they're being run active, an amp channel for each speaker and there is no crossovers just an audison bit 10d) but they sound sweet.... using the multimeter you can limit the power going to the speakers so they'd get the 50w... giving them 70 will just shorten the life cycle ;) if you send a distorted signal to the amps they'll amplify the distortion... my head unit doesn't go over 17... I think that's around a third of the total -  the bit 10d has some funky lights that light up if the signal is clipping (Distorted).

     

    Hope its going well :)

    Fitted aftermarket speakers; bass performance lower than factory ones

    in Audio, Electronics and Security

    Posted

    Hows your journey into car audio coming on? 

     

    I've played around for a number of years, made silly mistakes, bought twice cause I'd bought the wrong thing. My first venture into audio upgrade was a Rockford  Fosgate and MB Quarts combination - 10" RF Punch Sub, 6.5" MB Quarts Component Speakers and an RF Punch 120a2 Amp (the amp was wired in tri mode so powered the who system) It sounded good but I stripped the car and sound deadened the whole car (including the roof!). What I would say is it never sounded like the oem system, highs sounded more detailed and bass was tighter but not as deep from the front speakers (hence the Sub). (I'd say that install was 7.5 out of 10

     

    I then went on to buy a load of infinity Kappa Speakers an Alpine amp and a Vibe Sub for the next car, which then went in to an audi cabriolet  (5.5 out of 10) and then in to a fiat seicento... In the fiat it had a tiny pair of 4.5" co-ax speakers and the sub (also had a playstation 2 and screen) This probably is the second best sounding install I've had as the speakers we're almost perfectly positioned (8 out of 10)

     

    I then spent some time working for Audi/VW Group and had many dynaudio systems (7.5 out of 10) in my company demos and went down to MK to see & listen to their systems - they were nice but cost a fortune to have but the installation was done in the factory so everything was put together once and not taken apart like you have to with an after market install.

     

    I've used MB Quarts, Infinity, Vibe, Alpine and Dynaudio... speaker and always had a soft spot for JL Audio...speakers I nearly went for Focal or Audison/Hertz but for my rapid I took it to Oxford Car Audio and got Mark and Will to do the install and sound deadening. I ended up with a pair of JL Audio C3 650's. its been back in once or twice and had a few tweaks to the Audison Bit 10d (dsp and eq)... I now have a fully active system that was designed around sound quality, the stereo imaging is top with a real distinction in where instruments, vocals, and sounds come from. My old RockFord Amp finally gave up after 17 years and was replaced by an alpine mono amp. I passed my vibe sub on to my nephew but did well on an ebay auction for an alpine 8" sub box and my 10 year old Alpine 4 channel amp is still going strong. That and mountains of sound deadening and time spent tweaking it...(9.5 out of 10)...

     

    I'm not looking to change this car for a long time now!!!!

     

    Anyway, aftermarket speakers never sound the same in terms of bass but your ears will get used to it or add a sub... if I was you I'd get a little 4 channel amp and power the fronts off channel 1 & 2 then bridge 3/4 for a sub. Pick one up off eBay or something like that then look up on youtube how to set up an amp using a multimeter and set your Low pass frequency on the sub around 80hz then the high pass to our fronts around 80 hz so they don't have to reach the lows they're not really good at reaching ... speak to a Four master independent stereo shop - I can only sing Oxford Car Audio's praises.... they'd normally offer you help and advice but paythem and they'll do an amazing job ;)

     

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Welcome to BRISKODA. Please note the following important links Terms of Use. We have a comprehensive Privacy Policy. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.