Lsstefan

https://www.amazon.co.uk/BA15s-SAMSUNG-Power-Reverse-Signal/dp/B01AWDL9YU/ref=sr_1_3?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1507007789&sr=1-3&keywords=15w+led+bulb If you scroll down, the first comment is a Passat that has them fitted.

I am finding it to happen 9/10 times on reverse, like your case. I changed the shock mount and bearing a couple of months ago. New sport shocks also. The mechanic checked all the bushes and said nothing looks bad. I have a feeling it's the steering box. The noise is like in the middle of the cabin, this morning I felt it on the DSG shifter when I had my hand on it. Thanks for all the input.

97k km. I did the DSG service @85k, more or less, but leaning towards less. I went to a mechanic today and he said the axles look strong, no issues there, the left one is a flimsier than the right one, but the noise is coming only from the right, so that's that. Anyway, did a test drive, didn't hear anything bad, then again I can't replicate the issue at all and said as long as the noise is very situational and not happening often, I'm ok. If the noise starts to show more often, we'll try to replicate it better and see what's up.

I found some LED bulbs that claim to be 15 W. Since the regular bulb is 21 W and I read somewhere you need 10-12W+ in order for the bulb to pass CANbus inspection, do you think they might work? There is a guy having them on a Passat 2013+ with no issues, so I'm guessing they might be good. I'm not too keen on adding resistors.

Hello. I have an issue with the car, been having it for a while now. For example when I go into reverse and turn, a lot of times, especially when the car is freshly started, I get a very bad noise, like something breaking. I also get this when accelerating with ESP on. I was thinking either half/axleshaft related or something in the steering gearbox(I don't really know it in English, but the part that turns the wheels). Can a halfshaft be damaged when turning but still perform with no issues while driving? I mean, when puling while rolling, I get no issues. I also get no issues when turning at speed nor after the car has warmed up a little. I mostly if not 9/10 times get it when I start the car. I got another issue regarding the DSG. When I put it in D(1) or R, sometimes the car starts rolling a tiny second, then stops and then starts again. If I let it roll on it's own I don't see the problem that much, but for example when I put it in D and want to start rolling, after the gear decouples I have my foot on the gas and when it's back on, the car pulls violently. I got a friend with a DSG Golf V and he says he has the same issues with reverse and that it's the Mechatronic. My question to you is what can be wrong with a DSG gearbox besides used clutch disc? The actual gears can have problems? I want to go big turbo on the car and if the DSG is damaged in anyway that won't be a decent price to fix, I won't go on with the plan. Before going big turbo, I will open the engine and perhaps the gearbox to check if I got any hidden issues, but that's the plan for the spring, atm I want to make some money plans so need to know what MIGHT be wrong with the car. Thanks for all the help. Regards.

2.0 TSI, ecu remapped, CAI, KYB Ultra SR front shocks, Eibach Prokit, ISPIRI ISR10 19x8.5 et32 wheels At some point I'd like to get fender flares and spacers or if by any miracle somebody buys my wheels, get wider ones. And ofc more performance upgrades. My buddy's 430 hp Focus ST. One day and 10k+ euros later, I'll probably beat him :))

If it's a solo tuner, then yeah, he has to do it all over again. The fact that he's charging you for your basic map is stupid and greedy. But doing the same tune again might mean the same work again. Though I'm sure he could try to use the same parameters from the previous remap and see how it stands, maybe just some fine tuning that shouldn't add up to a full remap. My advice, next time go with a big tuning company, that already has a tuned base map and just do fine tuning. This way, worst case scenario you lose your WHOLE remap, they just do some fine tuning at a fraction of a cost because you already bought the tuned base map. The damage is done now though, I'd advice to bargain with the tuner for a discounted price since you already paid the first time.

It came with 2.0 TSI as I have it, CCZA engine, same as in Golf 6 GTI and Octavia VRS I think. FWD though, would of been a blast to get awd in 2011. 3.6 here costs @1000 euro road tax/year while the 2.0 is 30 euro... I have mine ecu mapped by a very reputable tuner since 2013 and 60k km ago, mapped to ~270 hp, no issues EVER, car pulls like a truck. I dislike the DSG in Drive mode, even if remapped also. I think the DSG should be connected to my brain so it can shift when I want, not when I press the pedal until some point so the car goes into 2nd gear at 100 km/h and push me into the seat just because it's too lazy to shift faster. Damn DSG... So it's not hard to reach VR6 power, though no awd. If you can justify your road tax or if it's lower than here, I'd go with the 3.6 though, a mild remap gets you to 300 hp and you can't beat the straight pull from NA engine or the sound or the awd...did I metion the sound with an aftermarket exhaust? Good luck.

480 E is kinda steep. I found in my country https://www.olx.ro/oferta/volan-multifunctional-skoda-vrs-padele-dsg-ID6znyO.html#b1186e3fb3 That's 380 E and I didn't even search or negotiate a bit. I want to change my wheel with one like that in the near future, but the one thing I stumbled upon at every search is that you might need to change the wheel computer for the buttons to work. Also, if you want to step up your game, you can order alum shift paddles from Osir.

I searched your posts, though on mobile and nothing came up with car grounding Anyway, I want to buy 19x8.5 et35, they will most likely look flush, but I'm wondering how it will perform in a turn on a huge bump for example. I'm considering rolling the front fenders just in case. My car is lowered 30 mm with eibach pro kit. What's your wheel spec?

Is the pipe related to the A/C or the heating? Or is it an engine pipe? So I know what to tell the mechanic when I'll go. Thanks for the reply.

Good day. I have a problem that happens after hard braking. After I do a very hard brake, whenever I brake I hear a creaking sound. If I let the car sit for a few hours, the problem goes away. I never have it if I don't brake hard. I started to appear this winter, I didn't notice it until now. It happened 2 times in the last 2 weeks. Here's the sound it makes: https://youtu.be/mfyEC2xQ8Ck To not start another thread, I also notice that under hard acceleration with ESP on(standstill or low speed-high gear), I get some awful sounds, like the car is falling apart. They sound like hard knocks on the chassis, only when accelerating. At first I thought it's the DSG gearbox mount, but I switched off the ESP and besides tire spin, I get no sounds. From my knowledge, ESP can also cut fuel injection and one time the knock was so hard(hammering like knock but also sudden fast braking), it seemed the engine stopped all together and got back up again and running. I had an issue with the speed sensor and the engine stopped while driving. I recognize the fuel cut off from there, but still, can ESP cut the fuel to THAT extent? I will upgrade the engine, DSG mounts to something more performance oriented, try to replace most important bushes and change the shocks come spring, maybe if the car doesn't slip that much, the ESP won't destroy it. As for the first problem, beats me. My old and good mechanic got sloppy and I need to find one, if I can't, I'll go to the dealership, though I'd rather not replace the whole car for a sound because they aren't at liberty to check/repair. Thanks for all your input. Regards, Stefan

Hello. I've read some of the threads here regarding the upgrade, but some don't have working photos, some don't have working links. I want to change the head unit and I read it's not compatible with the oem amp. So if I'm changing the amp, why not change the speakers also. I have the 10 speaker option. I found a kit of woofer 16.5 and separate tweeter with a crossover. Is it ok if I don't connect the mid in the new system and use only the new woof and tweet? Do I have to use new wires for the speakers or can I disconnect the wires from the oem amp and put them in the new one? I read the speakers need adapters because the holes are bigger than 16.5 or something. Should I search for universal adapters or? The speakers are rated 60W nominal, the amp can deliver 70W, but the new head unit can do 45W per channel. Is that a big discrepancy between the unit and speakers? The reason why I'm asking so many questions is that I don't want to remove the door panel too much, once and good. Kind thank yous for the help. Regards

Ok nevermind. What part of the airbag is disconnected from the wheel and on the passenger seat when checking the pins you don't understand? How can airbag deploy if it's not connected to anything? I'll assume from simannjo's post that those 2 pins should have tension only when the airbag deploys. Thank you for all the help.

I do everything with the battery disconnected. After I removed the whole airbag i connected the battery a8gain to test the voltage. After I reconnect it back I start the car from the passenger seat just in case. If it pops it pops, will get a new one. Safety first always.