gm73

2020 Octavia 1.5 TSI 167k Hi, can anyone help at all? I've replaced my PCV valve twice as I was advised it was faulty due to excessive vacuum and oil consumption. Firstly with a Febi part and then a VAG part. It still seems to have excessive vacuum despite using an original part (£121 from Volkswagen) in case the Febi one was substandard or faulty. Is it supposed to be like this or is there some other possible cause of the vacuum like a manifold intake leak? Any thoughts would be welcome as I'm at the end of my tether with it. Thanks.r

Bit of a Hail Mary here but over the past 18 months I've been getting an occasional P014800 (fuel delivery error) in the morning when starting the car, lumpy idle etc. Retarting immediately clears it. I always suspected that there is something wrong with either the in tank fuel pump (it's noisy - buzzes quite a lot) or the high pressure fuel pump as the car can feel underpowered at times and acceleration can be uneven. I clear the code and it maybe does it once a week. Now I have a P02D300 (cylinder 4 fuel Injector Offset Learning At Max Limit) fault code. The car still drives exactly as before so that's what has raised my suspicions. Can the injector issue possibly be caused by fuel delivery issues before I go and spend £££££s on a new injector? And is there a way to test fuel pressure with a Carista or do I need VCDS so I can check this. Thanks everyone.

Hi there. It's still doing it occasionally after all this time so I've just ignored it. The snake oil did quieten down the engine rattle I had which was dirty injectors.

A long shot I suppose but has anyone had four injectors replaced on a 1.5 TSI at the Skoda dealer and what was the cost? The reason why I ask abut dealer costs is that they offer a six month payment plan for high cost repairs. I paid for my timing belt through this method at Henry's Skoda in Glasgow.

I totally understand the logic of getting 4 done at the same time with regards to removing the inlet manifold. But it’s a taxi and it’s just a question of cash flow unfortunately.

Thanks. Car’s performance doesn’t seem to be affected tbh. And as for new injectors I just don’t have the cash for a set of 4. It will need to be one at a time and possibly used or reconditioned.

Getting this fault code on my 1.5 TSI. Car drives normally and when I clear the code it stays off for some time. It first happened yesterday and I put in Morrisons Super unleaded then mixed it with BP ultimate a short time later. Could it be this or is it just a failing injector? Car is on 162k. I've put in Archoil petrol synthesis cleaner and will fill with Shell V Power.

The matrix the matrix was changed which improved things a bit heat wise but when load was reduced the air turned cold even at the highest setting. Water pump was then changed and everything was sorted.

This one. The one driven off the cam with the solenoid and thermostat built in.

***UPDATE*** It was a weak water pump causing the issues. So I’ve had it replaced and a new matrix as well as it was a bit clogged too. Full coolant flush and replacement as well. Heaters are piping hot now thank goodness especially since the temperature dipped.

Hi. What mileage was your car on when this issue presented itself? Mine is on 155k now so I’d imagine the issue you experienced would surely have raised its ugly head at some point by now? It’s going into the garage on Wednesday to have the matrix inspected and either flushed or replaced if necessary. The strange thing is the car does reach and maintain a set temperature when the outside temperature is at 3/4 degrees or more. This morning for example it was -1 and it only really started to properly heat the cabin when the temperature rose to 3.5 degrees. It can actually get too warm after that. There’s no issue with overheating or evidence of water pump issues. No loss of coolant etc.

I’m not using the air con. Just the normal heating system.

Okay. Update time. It was 0 degrees this morning. The car took ages to reach a set temperature of 18 degrees. Now it’s 6 degrees outside it’s happily maintaining a set temperature of 21 degrees. So it’s not working properly at very cold temps but seems to be okay when the temperature rises to above 5 degrees.

Hi thanks. I’ve purchased a thermometer to use inside the car and the temp I set matches the temp on the thermometer. It’s 9 degrees outside and I set it for 25 inside and it said 24.8 on the thermometer. Reduce it to 22 and it goes to 22.6. So I think it’s actually working correctly. The acid test will be on a cold morning, we will see how quickly it attains the set temperature. And you’re correct. At 20 degrees setting the sweat is rolling down my back. I was in my wife’s BMW 1 series last night and when it was set to max temp it was absolutely roasting out the vents but it doesn’t have climate control. Just standard heating.

Thanks. It’s a mk3.5 2020 1.5 TSI on 155k. Car sits at 90 no problem and should have the post 2018 waterpump. It doesn’t have the silica bag either. Car is saying 4 degrees this morning which is in line with phone temps. I’m leaning more and more towards a blocked heater core. It’s going in for removal and flushing on Wednesday so I’ll know more then. many thanks.

I can’t seem to edit this long winded post so I’ll do it in this quote. Quite simply I’m getting decent heat when set to about 25 and blower on the lowest setting. When I turn it up it goes cold. Matrix or waterpump? Would anyone be able to hazard a guess? Many thanks.

As the weather has cooled somewhat I’ve noticed the heaters in my 1.5 TSI seem a bit lukewarm. Even set to “Hi” after warming up at 4 degrees external temperature the air is cool. Now the strange thing is that over the course of a working day the car does get warmer inside and doing checks with a temperature probe revealed that at “25” the air is 30/25/27/28 degrees from the four vents left to right. Stuck in motorway traffic the heater temperature does get pretty warm but then cools again under normal city driving. Surely if the car is at operating temperature the heaters should be piping hot at “Hi” under any driving conditions? Is this the way these heaters work normally or is something wrong here. They didn’t get particularly warm this morning at 4 degrees. My mechanic suspects the waterpump and as the car Is on 155k it could be due a change. However there’s no failing waterpump evidence like overheating or noises. The other possibility is the matrix so it’s booked in for a flush and possible replacement as an initial diagnosis.

I’m getting oil on the threads of the spark plug in cylinder 2. I’ve always had a slight misfire in third gear and I’ve kinda just ignored it for about 70k miles. The car is used for private hire and is now on 155k. Excessive revving triggers a EML and limp mode but doesn’t come on under normal driving. Is this what you’re experiencing?

No I was talking about my 2015 1.6 TDI. I had that done at 133k. My 1.5 TSI was done at 116k. The Skoda dealer had never seen a 1.5 TSI with mileage as high as mine so booked it in.

140k or 5 years. Whichever comes soonest. I had mine done at 133k.

Upload the video to YouTube then share it here.

One of the camshaft actuator solenoids on my 1.5 TSI has started making a sparking noise at idle. Sounds like it’s shorting. The ACT is still working but I’m wondering if a shorting solenoid is linked to the car running at 1000 rpm for periods. Video of the noise.

So an update. We have a U code that isn’t triggering the EML. It shows a lack of communication between the ECU and alternator. So it looks like a wiring issue although further investigation will have to be carried out.

Car was fine this morning, no issues. Alternator charging the battery, no high idle and most importantly the stale exhaust smell from yesterday had vanished. So the mechanic is erring on the side of the GPF being regenerated again. Apparently these cars have a smart charging system so when the battery doesn’t need charged any longer the alternator stops charging and that’s what caused my confusion as the multimeter was reading 12.5v whilst it was idling high.