miseryballs

Nice one. Thanks 👍

I did a scan yesterday and got this fault 'multimedia display unit 1, wire for signal open circuit'. Don't know if it's connected to my issue. I have a dash cam wired in and have made a couple of OBD11 adaptations so I'm slow to give it to the dealer as I don't really want them finding things they don't need to be finding. Could blame me for the problem.

How would I do that RomanB?

Tried that several times with no success unfortunately. 👍

Thanks for the replies lads, I have no SD card in it and never did, I just hook the phone up to smart link. I definitely think there is something up with it. Takes far too long to boot up sometimes. It's a trip to the dealer me thinks. Keith

Hi all, Quick question for you. Have any of you experienced their infotainment systems slow to start up? I have a regular issue where after I start the car the infotainment screen remains blacked out for several minutes. The reversing camera won't even engage and the Bluetooth does not start up. When the screen loads up all is ok and then the phone connects and everything is fine. But it is quiet annoying at times and it doesn't seem right to me, especially the fact that the reverse camera and Bluetooth remains off. Has anyone experienced this and if so has anyone fixed this issue. Thanks in advance Keith

Hi all, I said I would post this up as it may help somebody experiencing the same issue. I recently bought a new Superb Sportline and about a week into ownership it developed a very irritating rattle/knocking sound coming from above the driver's A-pillar, up in the headliner. I couldn't believe it for a new car, was gutted really. It sounded like it was coming from the headliner in the corner where it meets the windscreen, that general area. So I took off the A-pillar cover and pulled down the headliner a small bit. I couldn't see anything loose but saw there was a wire running nearby. So to cut the story short I stuffed the void where the noise was with cushion stuffing, only needed a little, and put everything back. This has gotten rid of the rattle completely. The dealership is a bit a journey for me so I decided to tackle it myself. Hope this helps somebody. I couldn't find an answer to this rattle on the site. Keith

Thanks for the info. Its probably wishful thinking on my part that I won't need a big job done on the ECU or a replacement but I was intrigued by the fact that the problems appear weather related. The man who looked at the problem when it first started has charged me a fortune to just 'diagnose' the problem so I'm slow to give him any more money to be honest. Your help was appreciated

Hi all, I recently posted that my ecu was fried and that it needed replacing. However I've noticed some interesting behaviour from the ecu lately. The problems I have been having are happening less frequently and I have noticed that when it rains, is cold and damp or when I wash the car I get the problems that have been linked to the ecu. Basically the coil plug light won't show on dash and the car won't start. But after a few turns of the key it does start. Is it likely that the water is getting into the ecu and causing a short and if so is there any way of waterproofing the ecu instead of going for a replacement? Has anyone had a similar problem? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks Keith

Appreciate all the help and advice lads. The car is still running with intermittent ecu problems but it could just pack in fully at any stage so I'll have to just decide soon what I'm going to do. Just hate the thoughts of spending big money when I might sell her next year. Thanks again.

I'm told the existing one is beyond repair due to the corrosion. But I didn't really know that an ecu could be repaired. The man that looked at the ecu is a car electronics nerd/genius so I can only assume that if he says a replacement is needed then the thing is beyond hope. But cheers for the suggestion. I wonder could it be repaired, would certainly be cheaper.

Cheers for the reply James, The tech guy told me I had to source the exact ecu with the sane part number and Bosch part number. I think maybe that's what you mean by CR engine. The guy was adamant that it had to be the exact same ecu as already in the car and hence the very small number of them available with the knock that they are expensive. I suppose I have to decide to either take a punt on a refurbished one for several hundred euro and the risk that would bring or the crazy expensive new one from the dealer but with the security of a part warranty. Just exactly what you need in the run up to Christmas.

Hi all, Apologies if this has been discussed before but I couldn't find anything in the forums. I have a 2.0 TDI Octavia mk2 2011 reg. I've been having problems with the car not starting and dash lights not showing up etc. Its a long story but its been diagnosed as a a fried ECU unit. Tech that looked at the car said it got wet as there's a lot of corrosion on it. Don't know how it happened but anyway I'm in trouble and need advice. Where could I source an ecu unit for my car? The dealers want absolutely stupid money for a new one and I've searched the web and found very few. The ones I've found are refurbished ones for around 350 euro mark. I would appreciate any help on this especially if anyone has had similar problems. Thanks in advance, apologies for long winded post!

Hopefully the dealer will find the problem and it will be a quick and cheap fix for you!! It would be great to hear the outcome and if it turns out to be the radio then I can apply any fix thats needed. Yeah I agree these forums are a great source of info and help, would be lost without them.

Hey DoctorT, I'm interested in seeing what's causing this problem in your car. Its strange that it resolves itself when you pull the radio fuse. Unfortunately I can offer no help, just an interested observer. I just installed a 8" pumpkin HU in my 2011 Octavia and I'm really hoping that it's not going to cause the battery drain issue you have. By the way cheers for the great installation video you put up, it was a massive help. I've seen a few threads about battery issues and the central locking. I wonder is the fact that the car hasn't locked up completely is the canbus seeing the car as still being active and failing to shut down fully? But what's the link to the radio I wonder? Wish I could help but hopefully you'll find the answer. I really hope its not the radio as I'm loving the pumpkin head unit. Cheers Keith