Regsmyth

I had a similar issue, and joining the two ends together at the wheel didn't solve it. As above, the copper cores were corroded and black. A new piece of cable with the correct end fitting was about £70. I ended up cutting the cable in the engine bay where the corrosion hadn't reached. Then joining the two ends together. https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/512861-brake-pad-sensor-wiring-where-does-it-go/#comment-5777691

Thanks Pete, I took the glovebox off, and decided not to mess with anything there, so cut the wires in the engine bay and joined them. The warning light then went out, so I guess the fault was the corroded wiring near the connector. All good now. Case closed. Thanks all.

Is it possible that a fault code might be stored leading to the warning light staying on? If not I guess I could extract the two wires from the bundle, cut them and twist them together, but it's a pain if that doesn't solve the problem! Any thoughts anyone?

Well I decided to have another look at this problem. I have removed enough stuff around the battery to see that the wires join a big bundle and head off through the bulkhead and into the mass of wiring behind the glove box. You cant really see the cable in this photo - it's on the hidden side of the taped up bundle. I also cleaned up the ends of the cables and joined them, but the warning light still shows.

I have the same noise. I don't know what it is, but I think it's something registering or initialising or resetting. Maybe the climatronic? I've got used to it, and it doesn't seem to have ever got worse. Maybe someone more experienced can enlighten us.

Yes I think the wires to the pad sensor are either broken or corroded, but I'm not sure where. I've stripped the pad sensor cable almost to where it joins with the ABS sensor cable. They are grouped in with the ABS sensor cable and together they go through the wheel arch grommet and then join a bundle that disappears through the firewall sort of behind the glove box. I want to know how I might access the other end of the cable to see if it can be repaired or needs to be replaced ie what I have to dismantle to get to it.

I have been having the warning light coming on intermittently. Then it would come on when I turned the steering wheel. It's now on permanently. I had the ends by the brakes joined together and taped up since buying four years ago, so assumed I would redo it. But it didn't work - the copper wires are black and presumably badly corroded and the light stays on, so I'm thinking about getting a new cable (£70). But I don't know where the wires go to. They join into a big bundle that goes through the firewall at the far right end, but I haven't got further than that. From the photo of a new one, they appear to be only a few inches longer than that. Does anyone know how to access the hidden end or what they connect to? Thanks for any tips.

Thanks for your thoughts. It's a 58 plate, and as with any old car, it costs to keep it alive. I've had it for four years, but I think most of the corrosion is from before then. The bodywork is almost spotless, and I've been good to the engine with regular oil changes. I think it's worth spending the money on to ensure that I don't have to get rid of it on account of worsening corrosion. I only do about 10K miles a year so it could last another ten. I'm concerned that even if I changed the lower suspension arms, it will be difficult to ensure correct wheel alignment if none of the other bushes/bolts are able to be adjusted, and tyres are expensive! If I felt confident that I could get all the bolts etc off, I'd be happy to spend the £200 on a full set of replacement arms with bushes and bolts, and then get a full wheel alignment. But then it makes sense to consider whether it would be better to get a new subframe first for £200, and fit the new arms to that. Is changing the subframe likely to be something I could do? I guess i'd have to take out some brake pipes and the exhaust, so it would be quite a big job. If it cost a grand to change the lot, I still think it would be worth it, as long as I keep on top of it mechanically.

I had an advisory on recent MOT for lower suspension arm inner bushes. I think I can manage this job (new arms c/w bushes and new bolts), although I will have to grind through the bushes as the bolts are corroded onto the bush. However I'm in two minds as to whether I should replace the other control arms at the same time, given the state of most of the bolts. The whole rear axle/wishbone area is badly rusted. The anti roll bar bushes seem pretty bad too, and the bolts/nuts are severely rusted, and won't budge. If I have to replace them, I think I'll need to use a grinder/blowtorch to get the bracket off. Can anyone advise what might be the best approach to all of this? Also would it be worth trying to treat some of the corrosion eg underbody seal or is it too late to expect any treatment to be of benefit. The car is on 135k miles, so I hope it's got a few years left in it. Any thoughts much appreciated thanks.

Its the wiring that goes to the injectors inside. I had the same problem - oil leaking and ending up everywhere. I didn't want to move it any more than necessary so I loosened mine just enough to clean the joint properly and smear some high temp silicone around the flange using a toothpick I think. Still dry a year later. Fingers crossed.

Ok thanks all. Still working after 3 days. I'll be keeping an open mind until the fault becomes permanent or correlations become clearer.

Thanks all, I'm still not sure. Yes all the sensors are clicking (even when the display is flashing and erratic). Tonight the system was working perfectly, after driving around town for a couple of hours. First time for several days or perhaps weeks. When I had the bumper off in December I had access to the module, and it all looked fine, wiring and connections good. The rear washer pipe is disconnected at the front, so not the culprit. I noticed some water below the battery. Not sure how it's getting there, but my thoughts were maybe there's some damp somewhere at the front which is affecting the system, and after some driving the heat dries it out and the system works again. I can't really explain it otherwise, but i'll keep on hoping for that eureka moment.

I wish it was that easy! When I took the rear bumper off in December, I took each of the sensors out, cleaned them, tested their resistance (all similar), put it all back together - same problem - not working. But the next day they decided to work. I have read about the reversing switch and wondered if it might be corroded/damp. Can anyone advise where/what it is? Thanks,

I've had this problem with my reversing sensors since about last September. Sometimes they work fine, sometimes they don't. These days mostly they don't. When they don't work, the display shows them both flashing and beeping with varying degrees of proximity, even with nothing behind the car. I took the bumper off in December and checked them all, all wiring looked good. The only time they seem to work now is after a long drive. I wonder about dampness or corrosion somewhere. Does anyone have any suggestions where I should try looking. Thanks,

I had similar issues recently after removing a rear caliper, putting it back and bleeding the brakes - the pedal was solid with the engine off, but gave way slowly when the engine was running. I too searched for answers, and found a video where the solution had been to activate the ABS (skidding on a gravel patch). I tried it, not sure if it worked, but i didn't seem to feel I had a problem with my brakes after that.