LordRaiden84

Thanks for the replies Nathanio & MillsyVRS. Well, that being said I will seriously look into a set of AS3's when the time comes. Sorry to ask again but wasn't answered prior. Did either of you at any point swap the fronts for the rears or just keep them as is until they were due replacement?

Hey all Can anyone recommend me a really decent tinting company around the Cheshire area. I am going to get the rears done on my VRS but as I'm sure you all appreciate, it's a bit of a mine field. I called a company near Trafford Park, out of curiosity if anything but the guy I spoke with was a bit.......pushy. Basically, questioning why I rang up if 'you don't want to book the car in'. Was a bit of an awkward conversation tbh. So yeah, could do with some pointers. I'm after a top job obviously and warranty so anyones experiences are welcome. What did you pay? Also, what's peoples thoughts on the best level of tint? I'm unsure as to what would look good so any pics would be greatly appreciated especially those with a race Blue VRS. Thanks.

Thanks for the feedback mate. Do you think I should get the AS3's when these are due replacement? Only downside I hear is a next to no rim protector though.

Hmmmmmmmmmm. Ok, in that case I will avoid fitting them. I definetly don't want to get pulled and thus far, haven't. I wish to keep it that way. I could go the 'gel resin' type plates route as I reckon they would look nice with a border but again, not sure of the legalities.

Hey all If anything, I'm just after a bit of a comparison as I want to see if it's similar to anyone else. Ok, so got the AS2's fitted April 2015 with approx 59K on the clock and have found them to be superb runners. Fast forward to Dec 2016 when my Octy VRS had it's recent MOT where the tyres were recorded with 4mm fronts and 6mm rears. Currently done 72kish miles. Would you say for the time the tyres have been on and the mileage over a 21 month period is a fair wear rate? If you can remember, what did you get out of them before they needed changing and did you have the rears put on the front during it's life cycle? Also, did you stick with the AS2's or move on? Cheers.

Thanks everyone for the replies. Ok, so sounds as if I should be ok and yes my plates are legit. On a side note, what is the deal with these 'pressed' metal plates anyway? Some companies and sellers from a certain site claim to be genuine yet don't require DVLA proof of vehicle ownership. Yet, others do. Always wondered about that.

Hey all I bought myself a pair of plate surrounds some time ago and had a crack at fitting them today. However, I've now noticed that the lip at the bottom covers the BS no and plate manufacturer. Is this acceptable? Removing the lower lip means the plate is no longer attached meaning in turn, I'd have to do away with the surrounds. I don't know if I could get pulled by the plod for it and don't want a hefty fine for an apparent 'illegal' plate. Can someone kindly clarify.

It's been said time and again regards a so called 'performance air filter/induction kit' fitted to a TDI. A search of the above results with all manner of posts citing opinion AGAINST one. Unless of course, you plan on a near overhaul of the engine and as said, big BHP increase. The return in price vs performance is negligable and if you want the underneath of a derv bonnet to sound like wasps going mad then go for it. Don't get a K&N paper filter either. Not worth it. Deffo not for me. Just my honest opinion. Feel free to disagree. Read up, do your research and draw your own conclusions.

Make sure my window tinting and RARB is done before this is finalised!

Just wanted to say how impressed I am being a first time customer with yourselves. A very friendly and professional chap named Ian dealt with me from initial quote right through to setting up my new car policy. Ok, granted you do need to provide a fair bit of info and it's the first time I can recall ever having to input details into the DVLA website to generate a 'driver code' and scanning numerous things ect but hey ho. With all mods declared, a named driver and my protected NCB you beat the neighbours by nearly £60. I'm not one for calling other companies and although they did try and were very aware of my custom of 2 years, I was swayed to jump ship. Couldn't say no really. So as long as my renewal stays competitive next year and I don't get the old 'I'm sorry Mr so & so but insurance premiums have seen a rise this year due to an increase in claims bla bla' I will stay. In the meantime, a one very smiley Octavia VRS driver. Look after us and we will be loyal in return. Nuff said.

Same as above mate. Not sure if your car is a facelift but mines a 2011 TDI for sure. I did contemplate the same and a bit of research pointed me to possible MAF failure and the car basically sounding like for a better term 'wasps nest' residing under your bonnet. Is it a CR or PD? Nothing beats the buttery smooth sound of a common rail. Why spoil it with a stupid bit of plastic plumbing? Not for me nah.

Mate, seriously, if you haven't seen already from the amount of posts and warnings, DO NOT get the bloody software fix done!! As Silver says, you really need to make your mind up but you'd be a fool to drop it off and then post on here like a lot of people that your car is down on power. I am not getting the fix done as I'm currently running a Shark Performance stage 1 and tbh, the mid range punch is lovely as well as general power. Absolutely no problems overtaking, doesn't struggle on hills etc etc so I'm keeping it as is. Why on earth would I want to sacrifice that? It would be completely stupid to have it reversed to what could be potentially worse than what it was BEFORE I got it remapped.

Thanks for the reply Offski. Well, moving forward I have decided to request the 'no fix' option. Whilst I'm at it, I'm gutted to hear peoples experiences regarding a loss of power, particulary in the low range. I feel as if the consumer is being penalised and their overall enjoyment of the car is now affected. However, more people need to come forward if this is indeed the case. Are VAG being dishonest yet again and hiding information from joe public?

Gents, my last post may have come across as a bit hot headed or arrogant. It wasn't meant as such and agree completely, Skoda are simply carrying out instruction. However, I feel my point still stands in the long journey to have it re-remapped is a huge inconvenience to me, not that VW will care. What I would like to ask is, has anyone had a CR170 remapped 'before' this update/fix letter? Do I have to request that they don't carry out the fix as per suggestion? Like I need a proof of refusal or something like if I ever come to sell it? Only said friend again has quoted "Your car is already modified from standard with a remap - do nothing and ignore the letter". Could someone kindly elaborate.

This is all very interesting stuff. My MOT is booked in tomorrow first thing with a Skoda dealer and I have received the emissions fix letter. I am not going to mention it to them and if they fix it without my permission I will consider taking action against them. Car is remapped and a friend basically advised it is not a legal requirement to have it fixed. Why should I travel all the way to Mansfield at my own expense to have it re-remapped again? I seriously don't see the point unless someone can provided concrete evidence my car will be better after the fix.

Hi all Just wanted to say thanks for everyone's contribution and I've decided to go down Muzzas suggestion and have ordered the resistors. Hopefully they will work without issues and the stupid warning will disappear, for good. I feel this is much easier than messing around putting the standard bulbs back in or trying to 'piggy-back' bulbs onto the LED wiring loom. By the way, I appreciate peoples thoughts on a bulb warning looking wrong and I didn't realise that actually, it could be a safety issue if another bulb failed without my knowledge! So yeah, thanks for pointing that out I can be a bit thick at times. I will let you know how I get on. Thanks again peeps. This is exactly why this is a great forum and without you guys, sound advice would simply not exist

It's a 2011 plate. I don't have the facility to do VCDS scan I'm afraid. I may have to go down the route of what mikey suggested and install the original lamps prior to it's MOT.

Hi all My MOT is due near the end of December so wanting to ask this question now in case I need to do some adjustments. Basically, swapped the standard rear number plate lights for LED and I have a permanent bulb error light. These were aquired from a kind member on here who I might add, stated thete were no issues with his VRS. I'm concerned my cars canbus system isn't compatible with these lights and am I right in saying that certain years of the VRS FL won't code them out? The LED's btw are the Superskoda set so I'm suprised they have resulted in this. Will this count as an MOT fail or just an advisory? Will I have to put the original ones back in temporarily until after it's tested?

Cheers both for your input. Really appreciated. Erm, ok I will look at some online/oveseas retailers unless of course Damian will put an offer up in the future regarding a B12 kit for a VRS TDI By the way, are these kits harsh? What I mean is, I'm prepared to take a little drop in comfort at the expense of better handling/performance but don't want to feel like my spine is attached to every bump in the road.

I have actually yes and appreciate your 2p's worth. However, these kits, unless you can point me to a cracking deal, can be very expensive and at this present time, waaaaaaaay over budget. I have seen that they offer a 30mm front/rear drop which is what I'm after. Perhaps some folk say £600+ is a fair price to pay.

Are you saying then that by me unlocking the car manually after locking it via the fob, the alarm should definitely sound? Sorry, just a tad confused when you say the alarm horn is probably dead. It sounds if I lock the car and sit in it so I'm assuming it can't be the alarm horn or am I missing something here?

Hi Damian Car has done approx 71K

Ok, so checked the alarm today. Locked car via fob with drivers window opened and waited about 30 secs. Waved arms inside and hey presto siren went off. However, locking car remotely and then unlocking the door via drivers door lock (as Eddie-NL) suggests does nothing. Unlocking it via the door though makes the alarm system chirp and seems to disarm the system. Unless I'm being thick the only way to test it is either sit in car or do the 'wave through window' trick. Wasn't doing anything yesterday so will deffo keep my eye and ears on this. Got really paranoid as I had a diesel leak and thought it may have scuppered the alarm. I'm a bit relieved now to say the least.