Avante
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Posts posted by Avante
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Correct it only does it in limp mode or when it appears a cylinder is misfiring, the engine shakes more, it sounds bassier, acceleration lag, and pulls very slowly as opposed to usual. The only code that persist to show is cylinder one misfire, I've had no other engine fault codes.
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Sounds expensive :(
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Cleaned map sensor with brake cleaner indirectly, ensured all 4 pipes to inlet are clag free, let engine run for 5-10 minutes idled from cool, seemed to run perfectly fine until the dreaded limp mode kicked in (no engine management light or codes this time), the rattling noise I've described before returned, and the engine seemed a whole lot louder and bassier while in so called limp mode. But apart from that, it seems to idle more fluently now instead of jumping between say 850 and 950 rpm, sits at a smooth 900 when warm.
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I'll get a better picture, one moment.Yup, that looks like MAP sensor. You don't need to clean those other pipes coming to the inlet manifold, just make sure that the holes into the manifold aren't completely covered by oily soot. They should be fine, but it's hard to see one or two of them well enough from your photo to be sure they aren't clogged.
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Damn weather, sat in car refreshing this page waiting for responses, occasionally looking up other threads and going out in the rain to look for blockages, sensors etc.
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The only pipe I looked at was the metal one from the EGR valve mateI'm guessing from what you have written, that you did not clear the route that air takes into the manifold plenum area from that EGR valve pipe port, that is where I would expect any restriction/blockage to be.
Right, my tb is back off again. There is a pipe coming from near the coolant expansion tank, and one coming from the back of the engine to the inlet.
Also one that goes to the back of the bay, can't follow where it leads.
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I also have a 2005 1.4 16v elegance bbz that was spitting water out the exhaust when I first got it (doesn't anymore), mifire cylinder one, seems you have more knowledge than me about cars, if you find the problem give me a shout, I'm yet to test my injectors, wiring, ECU and sensors etc. It's a very slow process for me though :(
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Just need to go out and locate map sensor now, check if it needs cleaning or not(?).
How would I go about cleaning the other pipes to the inlet?
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No, no need to remove the other end of that pipe as long as you can ease it away from the inlet manifold after removing that single support clamp bolt, to get enough room to clear out the port for that pipe on the inlet manifold.
Warning, taking the front end of that pipe off can turn into a bit of a drama as I discovered - nothing to worry about removing the EGR's electrical connector though, just give yourself enough time if you really think that the front end needs to get taken off to move the rear end away as there is an adaptor on the EGR valve that sometimes is easier to remove with it - but I don't think that you need to do anything at the front end.
Your right I managed by removing the securing bolt and two bolts at the manifold. Didnt need a cleaning though so use carb cleaner and a cloth to wipe the crap from around the seal where ring seal would sit, just to make sure its as air tight as it should be.
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I presume this shouldn't be connected to anything? Is it like a breather pipe or something?
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So if I haven't a blockage at the inlet side of the EGR pipe it isn't worth checking the other end near the valve? Waiting for the rain to stop then I'm back out there to check the other inlets to the manifold.
I didn't remove the bolts from the valve side as they are awkward to access, I didn't want to remove the sensor to the valve as didn't know if itd mess things up.
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I found the bolt your speaking of, fairly easy to access on my model I believe, unless there's another hidden one? I've only heard of the one though not two of them. Just need to remove the pipe from the EGR end which will be hard without removing wiring as the bolt on the right side is awkward to access.
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I'll give it another look through soon, just put it all back together as needed to head out somewhere. Anything else I could easily do while doing this? Ie map sensor etc? Would do injector heads but don't want to attempt it without new o-rings as one is clearly loosing its seal.
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Sorry link doesn't seem to work on those images ... http://s16.postimg.org/vnwc2p091/IMAG0085.jpg
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Yeah, later engines have the EGR pipe, including its 'exit point' poking straight through a hole in the side of the inlet mani, below the TB.
Appears that's what I have here, pipe comes straight from the EGR valve to the inlet.
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This is the first I've seen inside a t/b, anything to worry about?
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The injector head for cylinder one seems okay, its cylinder 2 that is gunked up, but from my experience if cylinder 2 was acting up my engine would run very badly if at all.
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Have you had a look at the point where the pipe from the EGR valve connects to the TB or its I/F plate, from my experience it is here that the worst gunging up occurs and not actually inside the steel EGR valve pipe - I thing that I had to poke something in from the outside to open that pipe port area up. With the TB lifted up you can do that without dropping anything down into the manifold, by the way, you should find that there are brass/steel ferrules in the body of the manifold to give some strength for screwing the TB securing screws into and the gasket is a rubber O-ring so should be reusable.
You have been told already where to find the MAP sensor, so look at the LHS (driver's) side of the inlet manifold, you should see something fixed into it using again small maybe torx headed screws (2-off) with an electrical connector on it.
What's I/F sorry? I removed the throttle body to clean the seals and I cleaned the metal pipe as well as I could, which pipe was you speaking of? Have I cleaned the wrong pipe entirely then?
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The pipe at the hot end, nor the EGR valve itself, tend to accumulate much soot on the petrol engines, cos it's all so hot at that end, it just burns off. Only where it meets oil mist from the breather system, just at that exit point, does it tend to 'settle'.
Do you know where the coolant is leaking?
Bottom right corner of the radiator I believe, I know this is where the pipes are, I'm hoping it isn't pipes now I've bought Wynn's though. I'll have a better look when I have time to get my bumper off for a proper look.
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There wasn't so much as lumps, just the side walls of the pipe were coated, if there was a blockage, it wasn't at the top end of the pipe, would much rather take the whole pipe off but with all the angles it seems itd be quite difficult. Got a few pictures as I disassembled, cleaned and reassembled, there wasn't much difference so I guess I should look into the EGR valve see if that's choked up. I found my engine coolant temp sensor and decided to leave it for now, don't want to drain coolant until ive got new coolant as I'm using Wynn's rad seal, got a "slight" leak (700ml every couple of days) lol. Where would I find the map sensor to clean it with brake cleaner indirectly?
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I don't spray carb cleaner directly into the pipe? Seems pretty awkward, not sure how I'll poke it through without making it worse unless I remove the whole thing in which case seems like a pain in the arse.
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Alright sweet, I've got the tb off now, looks pretty gunked up down there, as does the pipe from the EGR, I've got a cloth, brake cleaner and carb cleaner. How do I go about this?
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Right I have the torx screw bits now, I'll give it a clean out today. Does the throttle body need to be tightened to a certain degree?
Misfiring cylinder one
in Skoda Fabia Mk I (1999-2007)
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Ive had a brief look, can't see any exposed cables but I can't really tell without a multimeter test kit, also I wouldn't know where to stick the other probe?