Avante

Sorted. Just cut both connectors off and connected the cables to each other. Thanks for the help.

I've ordered the plug to arrive tomorrow. Swapping alternators in the morning then I presume I'll be waiting all day for the Postie. Just to make sure, the blue load wire connects to the flat side of the D-clip? And the green/purple to the rounded side of the clip?

Just an image I've pulled of Google but I think they look decent - but each to their own. Here

Been looking at a set of those but in black not chrome, just a wish list item though for now

Smashed up a stereo module connector and use the spade clips from that to clip onto the connectors of the socket. Just need to wire the wires together now, but I'm not sure which one would be which. Gonna have to find a picture of the connector and see which colour is on the flat side of the connector.

That sounds like a plan. Need to get her started so I can take it to my mates to get new alternator fitted - I've got a mate on his way round now with some wire and a soldering iron to see what we can do.

I can't seem to get the contacts out the connector housing. Does it need to remain in one piece?

It was indeed that. I've got the connector in my hand now, both wires are hanging loose. New alternator on today and see if I can get this rewired up. Thanks for the help and quick response. Edit; Currently attempting to cut the neck of the housing away to see if it's possible to solder some new wires, unless there's an easier method for this problem?

Could anyone tell me what's going on here and if it is worth fixing myself? I have another alternator I bought which isn't putting out enough power, that, or I need to look at the load wire as I've read on a few threads. Has been running as shown in the picture for a few days, but today my car failed to start. After about ten minutes after getting it started the power steering went. http://imgur.com/9ieKAVQ

I kept my old one on and worked around it. I think you can get them from eBay fairly cheap. Actually more pricey than I thought; http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/GENUINE-SKODA-FABIA-MK1-6Y-VRS-GRILLE-BADGE-6Y0853679MEL-/321974270740?nav=SEARCH

Alright, I've gone broken the clip off from the pipe that connects to the EGR at the top and tied it to the delete using jubilee clips. Is there a way I could replace my cleaned EGR and not have to buy another pipe just for the sake of holding it in with the standard clips? Or what's the best way to go about this? (I am considering a remap if this helps or changes my options?). Thanks for the response. I'll definitely be replacing the ASV but I may leave the EGR blanked out still? Just to solve the shudder.

I'm experiencing quite bad shudder when switching off the engine after fitting the darkside delete kit. I understand I've lost my anti shudder valve by fitting the EGR delete as I have the ASZ. I've read though the comments and haven't seen anyone mention about the shudder, I'm not sure if it's anything to worry about or not? Have I fitted the delete kit wrong somehow? Or is this normal?

First attempt at anything like this and apart from accidentally scratching the paint while it was drying, I'm happy with the results. http://imgur.com/a/zq8iT [/IMG]

Makes better sense now, no I've never removed the actual sensor, just the connector bit - how much roughly would we be talking for a compression test from a garage?

There's definitely no torx screw on mine, just a plug that clips in like the fuel injector connectors do. I understand better now thanks Wino, my engine was off at the time when it slid off the connector slightly.

Thanks Wino, I'll try get a sound recording of the "Tssss'ing", but that's all it is really, a quiet " tsss" noise that lasts for about half a second. It sounds like its coming from the passenger side wheels as I can only hear it with the passenger window open, but I could be mistaken about it coming from the wheels as its hard to tell as it only happens when I'm driving lol. I'll get in contact with a specialist and get a quote for a compression test as you suggest. Hopefully get to the bottom of the ticking sound when accelerating when in second gear moving slowly, as driving in slow traffic. And something fell out of the sensor, like a plastic clip, so put it back in and it stayed in. It did slide off slightly without the plastic clip. I don't understand how these sensors work then? I presumed it was just wired to the ECU? I'd never have thought pressure would be involved?

Also I started my engine with map sensor plugged in lightly, revved slightly and removed sensor, engine seems to stay the same but the EPC light comes on. My worry is the clip for the sensor is broken so I need to find a way to secure it on so it doesn't wobble loose while driving - it hasn't done so far, but just to be safe - any suggestions on my last post? Waited a few days but still haven't got a response. Has all hope been given up on me? Lol

Over a period of time driving, getting used to driving and learning how an engine should work etc - I've noticed a few strange things my car does, attempted to research it myself, and thought to ask for more experienced feedback; When rolling in gear, without applying any acceleration, I can hear a hissing noise, sounds like It's coming from my front/rear passenger side wheel area maybe? The little research I've done into this leads me to believe It's the brake servo or something? I'm not familiar with what one of these are or if It'll affect my misfiring problem, but I've learnt they can be expensive to fix; What's the implications of my not sorting this hissing problem out? It only hisses while I'm rolling, in gear, and not applying any acceleration - As soon as I put my foot on the accelerator, even slightly, it'll stop hissing - It's not a constant hiss either, It's almost every 2-3 seconds, and not every 2-3 seconds either. Almost like it's relieving a build up of pressure from somewhere? I still haven't gotten to the bottom of my misfiring problem either, but I've found while Idling at traffic lights, if I hold about 2k revs It'll not loose power and the engine management light wont come on - I suppose it's back to the drawing board with this one, I'll find time to check spark plugs over for oil burn marks, I'll check my coil pack for this cylinder, I've already ruled out fuel injector by swapping one over and the problem persists with cylinder one. Am I right in thinking it's more than likely a problem with my spark, or wiring loom?

I am, but I presume its way too late now lol.

I went to halfords and picked up a can of "sticky stuff remover", coated the crevices and prized it with a bank card. Came off fairly easy, then use sticky stuff remover to remove the residue.

I have a similar question, might as well ask on here - I have a elegance with the draw tray under the 1.5 din stereo, I've already ordered the wrong one once, which one would I need?

Problem solved, I glued the small plastic nib back on go the lever and now my tray works again, money saved. Presume jgraf94 no longer needs to know this as this was a old thread, but it may come in useful for others.

Issue solved! After hunting around after realising a little plastic nipple had snapped off the plastic lever, I found it! Gonna attempt to super glue it back together, I'll post pictures and info for anyone else trying to save themselves from buying another tray at £20+!!

Here's the thing that moves to hold the tray closed, appears there was a little protrusion that used to follow the guildlines shown on the tray, any idea if they sell replacements of these? If not I'll consider a DIY job.

Bumping a old thread, my draw no longer pushes in all the way. The plastic pin at the back of the tray has come loose slightly which stops the tray from closing all the way, and stops it staying closed - anyone got a quick fix to stop this clip wobbling up and down, and to only allow it to move left and right?