vels

Hi, Searched the forums without much luck. I am about to order new brake discs and pads for my 2015 NJ5 1.2TSI 110HP and see that some pads are prepared for wear sensors, some are not. Also some discs are 280 mm where others are 288 mm.. Question goes, do all Nj5 have wear sensors on the pads or do I need to take it apart to have a look before I order. About the front brake discs, does the last 0,8mm matter ? Thanks in advance

Hi, Might be a stupid question.. but I was looking at the monte carlo skirts and rear diffuser for my Fabia Combi. I have a tow bar mounted and was wondering if the diffuser needs any cutting ? Any monte owners here that can answer this ? Best regards

Not really any recordable sound, it just coughs and pulls badly the first 500 - 1000 meters. Wrote to the dealer yesterday, he acknowedged the noisy aircon pump ( which might be the rattle and pitching ), but would have to take a close look regarding the cold start drive issue. Will update if/when there is news

Thank you both :-) The car is a year old, nearing 30.000 km on the clock - so running in/breaking in is not the issue. It's only when cold, going to work in the morning, starting in the afternoon at work and only for the first minute or so. Been running Shell premium fuel on it from day 1, even got the engine oil changed at 15.000 km. It's not really a noise issue

Hi, Just wanted to hear if your cars also runs like an old 1985 vauxhall kadett the first kilometer or so when engine is cold... Mine starts up with high idle around 11-1200 rpm ( fine ) , but then if you drive the engine runs very rough, - feels exactly like misfiring. When applying a little throttle it first hums low with a snorkling sound, clear hesitation, then starts to take throttle with several misfire alike events.. After around 1 km it starts to run like normal.. Best regards Vels

Hi, Never did solve it At the moment it doesn't make the Sound, but it did the First 20.000km. Dealers would not take it seriously but could hear it. Believe its temperature related, usually heard it at around 10-15 celcius. Pretty sure its not gone for good.. At the moment when using aircon the fresh air valves sounds like an old refrigiator.. or wierd electrical High pitching noise.. Car runs great, but all the sounds drive me nuts.. Wish I bought another car :-/ I knew the Fabia was not high end, but the GF's citigo actually has less funny noises..

Nice :-) - must have been really fun to be part of. Actaully I just tank 95 RON on the 1.2 TSI 110 HP. Tried a few tanks of V-Power, got slightly better milage but in terms of power I think the engine is somewhat boring so even if it should yield a few HP more I dont really care. Most of my driving is small country roads with cruise control at 80-85 km/h. With Shell FuelSave 95 RON I average my work driving around 19-20 km/l and combined average including city, mortorway and pulling a trailer is 17 km/l. Some say the Fabia will be more fun to drive if the XDS+ is turned to max, but in standard setting it understeers in a degree that makes sporty driving hopeless. It does the job , driving from A to B at a fairly low cost and okay comfort level - but thats about it. So for me personally, I do not feel compelled to spending the extra money on fuel. I'd rather spend the money on quality oil and I service the car for every 15.000 km instead of 30.000 km as the service book describes. The stealer was not to happy about it, but did as told.

In most points I agree.. However, this would have been true just 5 years ago when most engines were non turbo charged. Todays small engines deliver HP and torque figueres that most people would not have believed 10 years ago, meaning actually are high performance engines compared to ealier. Take the Ford 1.0 EcoBoost, its only rated for a lifespan of 250.000 km.. The compression ratio is high, intake air is hot. The fact that 95 RON can be run as recommended fuel is likely due to the cooling abillities of the direct ignition technoligy, providing cooler spark plugs preventing premature "ignition". What we actually need, is some tech info on the ECU and what it can adjust to. My best guess is that the 1.2 TSI can manage 98/99 RON just fine, hence adjust timing to adjust for the slower burn. But it might take a first full tank for the ECU to adjust correctly. Mine says "minimum 95 RON", and for models with that designation on the filler cap skoda has the following to say : - Unleaded petrol that has a higher octane number than that required by the engine can be used without limitations. ■ On vehicles using prescribed unleaded petrol of min. 95 RON, the use of petrol with a higher octane number than 95 RON can increase the power and reduce fuel consumption It also states for models rated 95 RON but can run on 91/92 RON : ■ The use of petrol with an octane rating higher than 95 RON in does not result in either a noticeable increase in power nor lower fuel consumption in vehicles for which unleaded petrol 95/91, 92 or 93 RON is specified. So there we have it.. But as mentioned before, it boils down to a personal preference and will be effected by both driving style and climate. Just my 10 cents..

Hi John, On that particular engine, what you likely hear is the piston rings. This also makes at "pinking" or "ringing" noise... I've heard this should mostly be related to the engine blocks designated AUB. I've seen people say that engine will survive on high ocatane fuel, but I really can't tell the truth in this. If the rings are bad, they are bad and it will consume more and more oil - smoke and at some point break down if the nature of the problem is not taken care of ( new piston rings ). At most I think high octane fuel in this case can prolong the engine life because it will not self ignite and cause knocing because of the soot deposits that will occour when the piston rings are not ok. Less knocing equals longer life to the pistons and piston rings... but a cure, not really. Engines from this period of time is a generation where the manufactures experimentet med lower friction and longer service intervals on less oil. Many engines from the period of time died due to oil sludge, blown piston rings and extreme levels of oil consumption. If you are nervous about it then get your local mechanic to do a compression test or oil test leak test.

rum4mo :-) The Saab 9-3 Viggen is entirely another beast and can't be compared to the old V4 or two strokes - maybe you should google it :p ( I actually have a old 1956 twostroke ). The stroker only needs oil and the V4 can be modifyed with new valve seats that makes it compatible with unleaded fuel if your friend has these concerns. But...what I should be running a SAAB on was not really a part of the discussion, I only mentioned it because SAAB and turbo charged engines has been around long before the VW group started using it to the general public. So the point was really just to transfer some of the experiences and research from that part to these new small Turbo charged engines. Point being... high octane fuel might not be a waste of money - it just depends on your driving style and personal preference.

There is always a but... Sorry if there is grammer/spelling mistakes - english is not my native language. People always seems to think that high octane fuel is some sort of rocket fuel that will make their car into a Le Mans racer. I'm actually a SAAB nutcase that has turned to Skoda for everyday driving, but in the past many years I have been around high performance turbo charged cars like the 9-3 Viggen and the discussions about high octane has been a hot topic all too often. So the facts.. 1.) the octane rating is not a "energy" classification, but an "anti-knock" rating. Engine knocking if very common on turbo charged cars ( like the TSI ) and occours when the fuel self-ignite before the spark plugs was suppose to ignite the fuel. Remember this is combustion engines, not explotion egines - but when knocking occour a small explotion is really what happens and this is while the pistons is still moving upwards toward the upper dead point. The self-ignition of the fuel hammers on the pistons trying to make them go down while they are moving upwards. This can be heard as a ping and shaking. Modern cars today have knocking sensors, early types was fitted on the engine block and later types often has electronics where this function is placed with the igntion coils and spark plugs. Fuel self-ignition can be caused by soot deposits in the engine ( starting to glow ) - but on turbo charged cars the compression ( the turbo compresses the intake air ) is high and often too hot because the intercoolers are to small to cool down the intake air to proper levels. Keep in mind that the air after the turbo charger can reach temperatures in the 600-800 degree celcious area. Hot air contains less oxygen molocules than cold air, hence the intercooler. Hot intake air also contributes to a hotter combustion making it more prone to knocking. As far as I can tell the 1.2 TSI 110 HP has a compression ratio at 10.5:1 which is actually pretty high and likely why it is so strong ( high torqued from 1400 rpm ) even at lower revs. Engine management is able to "sense" the type of fuel you put on the car, by detecting when the engine starts to knock. When this occours engine management will force the turbo pressure down to precent further knocking since this can damage the engine, even knock a hole in a piston if severe enough. Back to the but...self-ignition temperature of regular fuel 450-550 °C, Super fuel 480-700 °C The higher torque demanded, the higher temperature, higher turbo pressure, hotter air.. So if you got a heavy foot, running on hot summer days or just like to cruise at low revs... high octane fuel might not be a bad choice or a waste of money. Since gaosline in it self has a octane number around 60, its required to add "something" with very high ocatane rating - in the old days MTBE ( very toxic ) and now likely ethanol or isopropanol. The drawback to this is that the higher octane additives has less energy when burned, so 1 liter of RON 95 will in most cases contain more energy than 1 Liter 99 RON. Many people can't grasp howcome their car often has better millage on 99 Octane fuel than 95. This is in most cases caused because the fuel is put better to use, since the engine can reach higher torque at low revs without knocking, pulling every inch of energy out of the fuel where the 95 or 92 octane fuel would not allow the engine to do the same hence wasting fuel, demanding higher revs for the same performance and more fuel. In theory and put to the test, I believe that the 1.2 TSI 110 HP might deliver 5-10 HP more on high ocantane than on 95 - but only in the "extremes". Meaning at low revs your would meassure some amount of higher torque and on high revs some amount of higher horse powers. On the 9-3 Viggen with it's 2.3L High performance turbo charged engine there was a clear difference on hot summerdays when running high octane. I would not expect the same of the rather small 1.2 TSI. My best guess would be better milage with the same driving style. I hope this makes some sort of sense :-)

Thanks :-) I know "hockey puck" type, but I would rather not use the panels if I don't have to. The car is much more stabile when jacked on the lift points. Thanks for the verification to rum4mo, I will try to fit these to the Fabia III then and the GF's citigo.

Hi, has anyone found rubber pads that fits Fabia III ? Unsure if this will fit : http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Original-VW-Golf-4-mk5-Audi-TT-Lift-Jack-Pad-Kit-8N0803855-8N0804583-Neu-/162004380339?hash=item25b836aab3:g:6JEAAOSw7aBVDZ9r I change between summer and winther tyres my self, and noticed before winther that the lifting points on the panel seems rather fragile. I have no intention of making a dent or scratch the panels when times comes for fitting the summer tyres :-)

Thanks :-) Same thoughts as I had, belt tensioner or A/C clutch.. Just needed confirmation that not all cars sounded like this.

Hi, First of all, sorry if my spelling is a little of. English is not my first language :-) hope some of you might have a suggestion. Went to the stealer today because this noise is driving me insane as it is quite noticible inside the car. The mechanic could not hear anything unusual :-( The sound is like a mix of a cricket and rattle, it's completely independent of revs and the only thing that makes it go almost away is when the A/C is enabled. https://onedrive.live.com/?cid=f2305b2a1615cda5&id=F2305B2A1615CDA5%212412&ithint=folder,jpg&authkey=!AExCqcefEWuA9wI Took a couple of videos to illustrate, might need a good volume adjustment to really hear it. It's the sound that comes and goes in short intervals. Best regards Vels