mizuno

I had a 2009 superb, with a single bulb in the foglamp. The default DRL behaviour was to turn the xenon lights on. I used Carista ODB paid feature to program the fog lights at 40% brightness to act as DRLs. When the xenons came on, the fog lights (DRL) would be switched off.

I had my 2009 Skoda Superb for 9.5 years. I bought it in July 2015, and sold it today. I was the 2nd owner, and it had 31k miles on it. When I sold it today, it had close to 140k miles. It has been a mostly reliable workhorse, made for the motorways. I went to Lithuania and back in it, drove to Norway and back, many trips in mainland Europe. Unfortunately for the last 5 months the DSG started playing up, and I do not have the means to repair it myself. If I had a garage to store the car, I would've attempted a repair. I want an automatic, but I don't want another car with a DSG. Since day 1 when I got the car, sometimes I would think "I would've done a smoother shift in a manual". In hot weather the DSG seemed to be a bit more rough too. Vast majority of the time though, the DSG was great. We wanted a SUV type of car, so the best contender would've been the Kodiaq. But I decided to go for a Suzuki Across, which is a rebadged Toyota Rav4 PHEV. Toyota's hybrid synergy drive is meant to be very reliable, and the drive is smoother than the DSG. However, if we were to buy an electric car, a used Skoda Enyaq seems very good value for money. And it doesn't have a DSG. Bye, and hopefully be back soon!

Car has only been smoked in a handful of times during my ownership of the car, there's no smell in the car that I can tell (and I'm a non smoker). 2 keys Non heated front windscreen (just your regular air blower heater, not like the Ford's embedded heater in glass) Interior colour - beige (you can see the colour in the video) Reverse issue occurs maybe once every 10 times, turning the car off and on again fixes the problem

Make & Model: Skoda Superb Elegance 2009, Twindoor (saloon) Colour: Rosso Brunello (Maroon) Mileage: 136613 miles Price: £700 - open to reasonable offers Description: I'm the 2nd owner, and had this car since around 2015 when it had 31.000 miles on it. I've driven it from UK to Lithuania and back, driven it to Norway, tried the top speed in the autobahn. It's an excellent motorway cruiser with generous interior space. Unfortunately it recently started developing issues with the DSG gearbox, and I don't know how much it would cost to repair. I'm not 100% sure what the issue is and what the repair costs would be, I didn't want to sink any money into the car. The last DSG oil change was at around 80.000ish miles. Also there's an error related to the intake butterfly valves. This might be a good project car for someone who's willing to spend some time on the car and get it fixed, or break it down for parts. The car also had roof bars on it, which are included in the sale. There's damage on the driver's side body panels, but I will include a spare door and a spare wing (but the wing unfortunately has some rust on it). I wanted to fix the body damage, but the DSG issues started popping up before the body damage was fixed. I've since bought another car, and the Superb has to go. The car has very fresh two front tyres. It's got a nearly full size spare tyre in the boot. The car starts and drives, but occasionally the reverse gear won't engage. Condition: Used, body work repairs required, DSG attention required, intake butterfly valve attention required Service History/Receipts/Recent Service work: Part service history Extras: Solar panel sunroof, rear heated seats, parallel self parking, parking sensors front and rear, auto-dimming rear view mirror Mods: Wide angle passenger mirror (same as for the driver) Collection: South Wales, CF38 area (Llantwit Fardre) The DSG gearbox sometimes does not engage into reverse. There's an error code related to intake butterfly valve actuation. I'll dig out the whole scan. There's body damage on the driver's side of the vehicle. Two new front tyres with less than 500 miles on them. Mot until 16 Jan 2025 Interior pics coming soon

When is Cardiff introducing the new charge?

I see that the rear camera has to be bought separately, which one did you go for?

Fair enough, thanks for the reply. I've had a read through the thread on XDA. Might look into this further

Thanks for the update! What are the flaws?

I'd like to know this too. I'd like to replace my RNS510 (or whatever the equivalent is, Columbus?) with something that supports Android Auto, as well as add a rear view camera.

I had a similar P0238 problem. Turns out one of the wires was cut off. Sounds like in your case, the connection is intermittent, but as soon as you brake or hard accelerate, the connection is broken and the error is shown. Since you've replaced the MAP and MAF sensors, I think it is quite likely that you have a severed wire problem.

I had the same problem, turns out one of the wires was broken

It should be possible through the maxidot display. If you car does not have a maxidot display (I think all Superbs have a maxidot), then it should be possible to change the volume via the entertainment centre. This is for the Octavia but should be the same for superb

I might get mine remapped at some point, but at the same time there's plenty of power available with the 170 Back to the main subject of the topic - I've fixed it! Long story short: there was a broken wire immediately after the intermediary loom. Long story long: Access to the sensor would be much easier if it weren't for the AC unit. This is probably the only time I wished my car didn't have AC. All the rigid rubber AC pipes make removing the MAP sensor impossible without removing the boost pipe. Quite possibly the position of the MAP sensor and the boost pipe were designed first and the AC unit was designed later. The MAP sensor position on the later revisions of the engine (accessible by just removing the engine under-tray) makes much more sense. Here's my guide on how to access the MAP sensor on a CBBB engine: Remove the engine under-tray Remove the air intake housing (parts 17, 18, 20 and 21) - this will allow the removal of the radiator fan shroud Remove the radiator fan shroud. Undo the wire connector first, then the 4 bolts. Gently remove the fan shroud through the top of the engine Loosen the clips marked as red #1 and #2. Once those are loosened, you should be able to remove the rubber hose #3. It will be difficult, start with disconnecting from the part that clip #1 was holding, Putting it back on afterwards will be just as difficult Under the engine, loosen the clip 6 and disconnect the rubber hose from the plastic charge air pipe. Prepare a cloth as you might have a tiny bit of oil drip out. Under the engine, undo the plastic hose clip marked as the red #4. Under the engine, undo the screw (bolt) labelled as the red #5. The AC belt will be in the way somewhat. Confirm that this is a Torx T30 screw, this is very important for the next step. Under the engine, try to undo screw labelled as #6. This should also be a T30 screw, but it is very awkward to access and you will need a lot of strength to undo that screw. Make sure the T30 end is in the screw as much as possible, to reduce the risk of stripping the screw/bolt. You should now be able to gently remove the charge (boost) pipe under the engine, with the MAP sensor still attached. The loom should have just enough slack to allow you to pull the pipe out enough to disconnect the sensor. With the sensor disconnected, you can now either replace the sensor or do some continuity testing. Putting everything back together is pretty much in reverse order.

Thanks for the reply. I only could use the compressed air nozzle from a good distance, so I hope I did not cause any damage. Good to know in case I ever need to clean the sensor again once this is sorted. I did read some info regarding that the MAP sensor is a two in one sensor on some engines and just a pressure sensor on other engines, thanks for clarifying that. Even taking the connector off is tricky, I suppose I could try to press on the plastic clip with a screwdriver to release the connector, and then gently tug on the loom to get the connector off. I'll give it a go tomorrow. Thanks for the reply. I can't get the exact voltage from the odb2 reader and the Car Scanner app, but I am able to view the calculated (expected) pressure and the real pressure. This morning the car was giving good readings when I was revving the engine on park, and then all of a sudden it started consistently giving around +0.3 bar even on idle. So something's going on there. The log has got loads of errors (seemingly non engine related) and is a bit confusing to read, but I'll clear all the errors tomorrow, re-scan it and post the log. You gave me an idea, I could try wiggle the loom with the engine running and see if the reading changes at all. By the way, I've ordered an exact replacement part. I had to put an endoscope camera in there to see which model the sensor is, and the label was completely covered with oily dirt. I've crumpled up a paper towel, soaked it with an electronics cleaner and put it in a pick-up tool/claw thing and managed to clean the label just enough to read the part number.