lab4games
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Posts posted by lab4games
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On 17/09/2018 at 14:52, ian_feel_keepin_it_reel said:
Found this in an older post:
Page 47 of the owners manual:
The automatic power windows do not work if the vehicle battery was disconnected and connected while a window is open. The system must be activated.
Activation sequence:
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› Switch on the ignition.
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› Pull the top edge of the button and close the window.
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› Release the button.
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› Pull the relevant button upwards again for approx. 3 seconds, and keep it pressed down
This saved me today!!
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AGM. Coded when it was first changed
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I couldn't start the car to drive to a workshop. I thought it would be a simple battery replacement as the first battery died without warnings as well at near the 4 years mark.
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4 years old AGM battery went totally flat one day. Did a replacement and the battery vendor did a voltmeter test and said the alternator had low voltage and mentioned New Battery runs risks of depleting.
Went to my mechanic for a batt test and was given this result. It showed charging test result as low.
Car is 7.5years old. Is the alternator on its way out?
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Hi all,
My dashboard has the ABS and ESC and TPMS warning lights on an octavia 3 TDI when i start the car. it usually goes away after a few minutes of driving. Did a VCDS scan and the errors are:
- multiple C101C error pointing to Rear Left Wheel speed sensors,
- C1146 error for tire pressure monitoring
is it safe to conclude that the Rear Left wheel speed sensor needs replacement and all will be fixed?
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appreciate all the inputs. here's a photo of the slotted rotors when all the grooves were intact. i recall there were from ATE.
I did a 288mm to 312mm rotors upgrade by changing to this rotors and by changing the clippers carrier brackets.
the current pads have done 15000 miles.
the rotors had done about 70000 miles.
car drives well, brakes well with no vibration like those of a wrapped disc.
so i suppose i could just use it and change to new discs and pads together at the end?
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Hi guys,
I have been using slotted front rotors on my 2016 Octavia. Using original brake pads. Pads are 50% used. For the last 3 months I have been hearing some screeching sound when braking. Finally I saw the grooves on the rotors disappearing.
Is it normal for slotted rotors to become smooth as part of its wear and tear?
Would there be other components that I should check for this case?
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I have changed out the brake light sensor and everything has been working fine.
To change the sensor, there's a need to remove the coolant and brake oil expansion tank.
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Hi Pete,
Would you know what do "Short to GND" means?
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4 hours ago, Pete_Ex-Wino said:
There are two switches involved, one causing the brake lights to come on, the other one informing the engine ECU that the brakes are being applied. They're both in the same housing. The brake lights working doesn't prove that the other is, unfortunately.
On your car I expect the switch(es) are on the underside of the brake master cylinder rather than at the pedal. The wire from the relevant switch going to the ECU may be a white/green one from pin 1 of the 4-way at the switch connector to ECU pin 21. Access is not easy, I believe, on RHD cars. I would be inspecting that wiring and connections prior to purchasing anything, if it were my car.
thanks for the info. will definitely check out the wiring and connections. Are you referring to this switch #7 in the diagram?
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my car (SKODA OCTAVIA 2016 1.6TDI) has flashing glow plug light twice in 2 weeks. Car doesn't go into limp mode. Still drives normally. The cruise control shows it has error and got deactivated when the glow plug light flashes.
I have scanned with VCDS and saw this error code- P0572 - Brake Switch.
I checked the brake light still works normally when the error comes on. A restart of engine will clear the flashing light. Anyone able to share what is the part that I should change? Thanks.
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Took the opportunity to do a major servicing.
Timing belt kit
Water pump
Serpentine belt and tensioner
Oil and air filter change
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For info that the last stage of the water pump failure is coolant seen splashing in the engine bay area.
It just keeps leaking when hot.
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Are these suitable for MK3 with torsion beams?
https://ukwhitelineperformance.com/collections/all/products/bwr24z-anti-roll-bar
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Managed to locate the leak today after another round of low coolant warning. Took a video.
I think is the water pump?
Sending in to the workship.
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Yes I have it straight from the factory.
water pump hasn't been changed for 4years/118000KM
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22 hours ago, farty said:
IF there had been a lot of bubbles in the coolant header tank, that would suggest a failed head gasket or possibly a cracked block. If the water pump seal fails you should see a puddle under the car after it's been parked a while. It sounds like the OP's situation - a leak that starts when the coolant system pressurises as it gets to normal operating temperature or perhaps when the engine is worked hard and the coolant gets hotter still. It could be venting as steam but in that case I'd expect the temperature to be above normal ie 100C plus
So it isn't head gasket issue since no bubbling and the dipstick doesn't show any increase in oil level.
When are the conditions that the coolant will leak out from the water pump seal? Because I realised the car could be used for a period of time with no loss in coolant level.
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Could be wheel bearings. I had noticed the noise initially on left turns. Before it worsen to right turn.
New wheel bearings fixed it all
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10 hours ago, farty said:If you can't see any coolant under the car I don't think it will be the water pump (which has a seal that might fail). If you take the header tank cap off when the engine is cold and then start the engine, do you see any bubbles?
I am driving a 2016 1.6 TDI.
I have been losing coolant slowly over 2 months. The low coolant red warning light comes on.
Seems to be hitting below MIN level every few hundred KM.
Never had the over heating temperature warning.
Pressure test was ok
I don't see any puddle below the car either.
Is this typical of the common failing water pump issue?
I took 2 photos of it cold and engine just started.
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On 19/09/2020 at 18:02, moley said:
Water pump is the usual suspect in these situations.
Does it mean coolant is leaking from the water pump? Why does it happen?
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Michelin Primacy 4 is great. Check it out
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So what happened was that the Mechanic poured some water on the aux belt and the squeaking stopped. Therefore it can't be an issue with the timing belt.
He said he would need to remove the aux belt and tensioner to re check.
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4 hours ago, cheezemonkhai said:
There is a tpi out for tensioner/pully that fails early, first presenting with a squeak.
If ignored it could get serious and result in timing failure and so potentially engine failure.
i have just had to do mine for this reason. When you’re doing it you might as well do the water pump at the same time.
Ok I am not in UK. Could you share details on what are the tensioner/pulley listed in this tpi?
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This is the timing belt diagram. I didn't change any of the above.
I changed the belt, tensioning roller, and alternator pulley in this accessory component drive diagram.
What else could be making the squeaky sound?
The car has only done 85000KM, 2.5 years. Wouldn't it be too early to change timing belt?
6 speed manual gear knob replacement
in Skoda Octavia Mk III (2013 - 2020)
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My gear knob has been peeling off over the years. I came across this replacement item:
https://www.kopacek.com/skoda/octavia-iii/octavia-iii-original-skoda-leather-gear-knob-shifter-5m-rhd
It is meant for 5 speed. I suppose it will have no issue fitting for 6 speed?
And if it works, Can I take my existing 6 speed knob plate to fit over the 5 speed knob plate?