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Does anyone know a part number for the clips used to retain the front mudguards on a 1999 Felicia hatchback? They look like this: There's nothing useful on the clip, and I can't find anything on the online parts catalogue. The mudguards themselves have "ATEST 8SD 0963" written on them, which lead me to the following image on a Russian forum giving a part number of KEA 075 001. I can't find this for sale anywhere though, and all I really need is a replacement clip as one is missing from mine. Any suggestions on where I could look?

Nope definitely TL VW 774D, here's a photo:

The manual I have for mine says it should use VW774D (G12) only?

Managed to find the time to finish the cleanup and reassembly. I had the head skimmed, the machine shop didn't say how much they took off but the notch at the centre top has now vanished. I vaguely recall seeing on here that this notch is the skim limit indicator, although I'm not certain. If it is, then the limit has presumably now been reached. The block I cleaned as best I could by hand, and I hoovered out the pile of disintegrated gasket from inside the coolant ways too. For future reference, if anyone else finds themselves having to remove lots of the grey stuck-on gasket material I found that applying acetone with a dropper bottle would soften this enough for it to be gradually scrubbed off with a plastic dish scourer. It still took several hours to clean up, but I was wary of using anything harsher as the aluminium is so easy to scratch. All back together with a new gasket (made by BGA, as they made a gasket set with the new style separate inlet/exhaust gaskets), and seems to be running OK. Today I discovered that the front brakes had partly seized, presumably because it sat for so long, but having disassembled and examined these I think they will be OK once freed off. Still not sure what caused the gasket to disintegrate, it seemed to have failed worst where it was exposed to the coolant. Does anyone have a recommended brand of coolant compatible with these cars?

Their gasket looks to be in far better shape than either of the ones I removed, particularly around the coolant ways. Wonder if it was the original one or had been changed recently too. My current plan is to get the head skimmed, and refit with a new gasket. I haven't seen anything obvious yet on here that I might have missed last time, my current suspicion is that the surface of the block was marginally not good enough. Unfortunately my circumstances at the moment mean that I don't have the time or facilities to disassemble the engine sufficiently to get that resurfaced, but if the new gasket lasts another 6 years then perhaps by then I'll be able to do a more compehensive job!

I did have a search online, the images I could find were either of the red sealant type or too low-resolution to tell, like the one linked above which looks like this: Now that's some quality parts numbering!

Fairly confident the engine is the original one. That's interesting though, all of the ones I've found to buy online had the same red sealant. Where'd you manage to pick yours up?

The car's done about 40000 miles since it was changed, current total for the engine is 162000.

I think the gasket set was made by Payen, part number on the receipt was DT580 which comes up with a Payen set on Google. Coolant was red G12, 50/50 with DI water

Hi all, 6 years ago the head gasket on my Felicia failed, and I was able to replace it thanks to the guidance of these forums. Since the replacement, I've made sure that the car has never overheated or run out of coolant, and the coolant has been changed every few years. All was fine until recently, when the car started losing coolant and generating mayo again. Having taken the head off again, I can see that the replacement gasket has disintegrated and that there is coolant visible inside three of the pushrod ways, as well as inside several of the head bolt holes. I'd expected it to last a bit better than this, does anyone have any suggestions as to what may have caused it to fail so quickly, or ways to prevent it happening again?

Thanks both, that PDF in particular should come in handy in future! @RicardoM I'm trying to figure out the purpose of all of the pins on the connector for the window regulator. The reason I want to know this is because I'm planning on constructing a replacement window controller, as I have an aftermarket mechanism on the driver's side which doesn't play well with the original electronics.

Thanks for the reply, that's very helpful! I haven't yet managed to find the explanation on how to read the diagrams unfortunately, I'm not sure if my collection of them is complete. Using my newfound knowledge, it seems that those two leads from both sides are connected to T10e/1 and T10e/8 respectively. T10e is apparently a connector for optional equipment; some of the pins for it are described in the headlight washer wiring diagram: PDF I have: I'm not certain what the numbered rails along the top connect to, but according to the Haynes wiring info #15 may refer to the ignition switch in ignition position. There is no mention of T10e/8 in any diagram that I can find, or in the Czech wiring diagram PDF that I have. Does anyone know what T10e/8 is connected to? Additionally, the Czech PDF is the only searchable PDF that I have, and is how I managed to find the above diagram. I don't suppose an English searchable PDF exists?

Hi all, I'm trying to figure out the wiring for the front electric windows in my 1999 Felicia Magic. I've found the diagram provided here, but two of the connections on each side are just linked to numbered boxes (8, 10, 22, 23). Does anyone have a record of what these connect to?

If it is a problem with the cable, the one I have costs £10 and definitely works with the Felicia. Link.

Remember that the ignition needs to be switched on (dashboard lights on, engine doesn't have to be running) for the ECU to be communicated with. You can read/clear fault codes, and measure a bunch of the different sensors in groups of four. For the MPI ECU there is a copy of the workshop manual here which tells you which sensors can be measured and what the fault codes mean.