kedambarai

Have also hum at motorway speeds in right front wheel, I think its bearing. Its not getting worse, I suspect it will take some time for it to become really noisy. Hammering sound might be CV joint after all, woldn't connect those two.

An idea: check the ignition lock? OP didn't specify MY. O3 is made like since 2013, so over 10 years ago. I know from Audi that on older cars, ignition lock base can stick in some way and turning the key won't matter (no crank, no nothing). After rattling it a bit, it will loosen the thickened oil and allow necessary movements inside.... ?

Try the opposite direction. To my great surprise, after changing the RH pads and using RH tool, the LH didn't rewind with LH tool. After some swearing I decided to try the RH tool and voila, it went in pretty easy. Still unsure about the construction of the caliper but trying the opposite tool worked for me.

Hi, and welcome to the forum! Some thoughts: - Do at least the oil level check. Changing oil won't hurt. - Haldex oil change along with a filter clean in 2 years/30k miles should be a service program. - Unable to provide any reliable knowledge about the manual gearbox. Have had two man box cars with over 250K miles on them, one box oil never changed and no problems, another changed somewhere at 150K due to stiff 2nd gear shift. It made no difference. In any case, it appears to be something that you don't need to do very often. - Brake fluid change every two years is official service program as brake fluid absorbs moisture and brakes start to corrode, if not changed. If you are not into measuring the moisture content every now and then, just follow the procedure. - G13 antifreeze has 5 years corrosion protection in it, it is supposed to be changed every 5 years. - Would add rust prevention too. Cheers!

Locked phone screen? There is a "CarPlay" setting in iPhone menu under Settings -> General where you can allow CarPlay connect also when screen locked. I understand no other phones are able to connect while they work correctly with CarPlay on the other cars with the same cable? I have only once had head unit crashed and hard reset helped (I think it needed holding the power button for 10s or something similar).

Make sure Siri is enabled. CarPlay will not work without it

No worries, the air won't get upstream the brake line, unless you leave the brake line open upon removing the caliper (and even then the air will not go upstream). The moment you undo the brake line bolt, it will start dripping and you want to plug the line immediately. The fluid will come from the brake fuel reservoir in the front, make sure it's full before you start the job and check it as frequently as you lose the fluid for some reason. If you leave it unattended, there is a chance of emptying the vessel and subsequently air in the system (another magnitude of bleeding the system, you don't want that). The brake line itself is bolted to the caliper with a banjo fitting, so you can plug it either with a suitable plug (ca 10mm, for instance wind some electrical tape on the pencil) or a bolt, 2 washers and nut. I wouldn't use hose clamp - the line is stiff like a stick and if you have some badass hydraulic clamp, I reckon you can damage the line. It's not super critical to fully close it, few drops a minute is ok (put a tray under it). As long as the front reservoir is full. Perhaps you cah use some rubber blocks to close the banjo fitting from both sides and clamp it, haven't tried that. I didn't see a way to pre fill the caliper as I was doing the job first time and almost danced a voodoo dance to stretch the boot onto the piston... Looking back, it's a 30 min job Plus when you rewind the piston, it will make the prefilled fluid come out and create a mess. After you reassemble the caliper and reattach the brake line, just use the bleeding valve, it will fill allright. (Naturally, you first rewind the piston and then connect the line, otherwise you will pump the air upstream ). Can't overstate it - check again the front fluid tank, it will use like quarter of a tank or so to fill the caliper. The seal repair kit on ebay is something like £6,80, you need some brake fluid too, I reckon it's worth DIY to get some tinkering experience. Cheers!

Done that (manual handbreak). By far easier is to remove brake line and handbreak cable, and replace the boot and seal on the bench instead of swearing under the car. I'm not sure what do you mean by rebuilding (you do not need to take apart the handbrake system), there are only three parts involved beside the caliper itself - the piston, the seal and the boot. You need a tool to wind back the piston and a plug to seal the brake line while the caliper is away. I used angle grinder wrench (one that you use for removing the cutting disc), the notches indeed match VAG rear brake piston cutouts As I remember the job was to release the boot outside rim from the piston, work handbreak lever until the piston pops out of its thread, remove the boot from the caliper along with the piston, change the seal. To assemble you grease the piston, install the boot into the caliper, force the piston into the boot outer rim halfway and carefully work the piston onto the handbrake thread. Use the tool to screw the piston in. You later fix the boot outer rim to the piston top edge, when it's halfway in. Don't forget to bleed the brakes after reassembly! Good luck!

Had rear wheel arches and estate boot lid done on pfl 2016 mk3 (it was a warranty case). I think the rust starts on the rear corners of the arch, where it meets the bumper. The lid was rusty I suppose on the lower edge (it wasnt apparent, they discovered it when taking in the car). In advance you fix the rust in a warranty claim Now, I see that driver door sill starts developing a bubble. No apparent paint damage observable.