kedambarai

Try the opposite direction. To my great surprise, after changing the RH pads and using RH tool, the LH didn't rewind with LH tool. After some swearing I decided to try the RH tool and voila, it went in pretty easy. Still unsure about the construction of the caliper but trying the opposite tool worked for me.

Hi, and welcome to the forum! Some thoughts: - Do at least the oil level check. Changing oil won't hurt. - Haldex oil change along with a filter clean in 2 years/30k miles should be a service program. - Unable to provide any reliable knowledge about the manual gearbox. Have had two man box cars with over 250K miles on them, one box oil never changed and no problems, another changed somewhere at 150K due to stiff 2nd gear shift. It made no difference. In any case, it appears to be something that you don't need to do very often. - Brake fluid change every two years is official service program as brake fluid absorbs moisture and brakes start to corrode, if not changed. If you are not into measuring the moisture content every now and then, just follow the procedure. - G13 antifreeze has 5 years corrosion protection in it, it is supposed to be changed every 5 years. - Would add rust prevention too. Cheers!

Locked phone screen? There is a "CarPlay" setting in iPhone menu under Settings -> General where you can allow CarPlay connect also when screen locked. I understand no other phones are able to connect while they work correctly with CarPlay on the other cars with the same cable? I have only once had head unit crashed and hard reset helped (I think it needed holding the power button for 10s or something similar).

Make sure Siri is enabled. CarPlay will not work without it

No worries, the air won't get upstream the brake line, unless you leave the brake line open upon removing the caliper (and even then the air will not go upstream). The moment you undo the brake line bolt, it will start dripping and you want to plug the line immediately. The fluid will come from the brake fuel reservoir in the front, make sure it's full before you start the job and check it as frequently as you lose the fluid for some reason. If you leave it unattended, there is a chance of emptying the vessel and subsequently air in the system (another magnitude of bleeding the system, you don't want that). The brake line itself is bolted to the caliper with a banjo fitting, so you can plug it either with a suitable plug (ca 10mm, for instance wind some electrical tape on the pencil) or a bolt, 2 washers and nut. I wouldn't use hose clamp - the line is stiff like a stick and if you have some badass hydraulic clamp, I reckon you can damage the line. It's not super critical to fully close it, few drops a minute is ok (put a tray under it). As long as the front reservoir is full. Perhaps you cah use some rubber blocks to close the banjo fitting from both sides and clamp it, haven't tried that. I didn't see a way to pre fill the caliper as I was doing the job first time and almost danced a voodoo dance to stretch the boot onto the piston... Looking back, it's a 30 min job Plus when you rewind the piston, it will make the prefilled fluid come out and create a mess. After you reassemble the caliper and reattach the brake line, just use the bleeding valve, it will fill allright. (Naturally, you first rewind the piston and then connect the line, otherwise you will pump the air upstream ). Can't overstate it - check again the front fluid tank, it will use like quarter of a tank or so to fill the caliper. The seal repair kit on ebay is something like £6,80, you need some brake fluid too, I reckon it's worth DIY to get some tinkering experience. Cheers!

Done that (manual handbreak). By far easier is to remove brake line and handbreak cable, and replace the boot and seal on the bench instead of swearing under the car. I'm not sure what do you mean by rebuilding (you do not need to take apart the handbrake system), there are only three parts involved beside the caliper itself - the piston, the seal and the boot. You need a tool to wind back the piston and a plug to seal the brake line while the caliper is away. I used angle grinder wrench (one that you use for removing the cutting disc), the notches indeed match VAG rear brake piston cutouts As I remember the job was to release the boot outside rim from the piston, work handbreak lever until the piston pops out of its thread, remove the boot from the caliper along with the piston, change the seal. To assemble you grease the piston, install the boot into the caliper, force the piston into the boot outer rim halfway and carefully work the piston onto the handbrake thread. Use the tool to screw the piston in. You later fix the boot outer rim to the piston top edge, when it's halfway in. Don't forget to bleed the brakes after reassembly! Good luck!

Had rear wheel arches and estate boot lid done on pfl 2016 mk3 (it was a warranty case). I think the rust starts on the rear corners of the arch, where it meets the bumper. The lid was rusty I suppose on the lower edge (it wasnt apparent, they discovered it when taking in the car). In advance you fix the rust in a warranty claim Now, I see that driver door sill starts developing a bubble. No apparent paint damage observable.

Folks, go drive a VW transporter or a truck or whatever with no center mirror. In fact, a lot of people are driving those kind of vehicles. Why all that wining? Train yourself to use the side mirrors. Edit: Estate opening button covered in mud is annoying indeed.

when you drive in the ice-rain then no matter what, wipers turn into icicles pretty fast. The heated windscreen is the best solution by far in those conditions.

Not taking into consideration the source (lossless, mp3,aac or whatever) the division is about 80% speakers, 15% amp and 5% all the cables, connectors, codecs etc. Main thing with amp is that it has to have plenty of W to drive the speakers but with good sensitive (96dB or so) speakers its not a problem -> with 5W you will blow your bloody head off. If the amp is weak then you will just have to listen quietly or blow the tweeters (clipping, current into speakers or smt) OR FIND SOME FINE SENSITIVE SPEAKERS. I would swap the speakers first. Options: fine speakers+****ty amp=perhaps some hiss but still decent sound. ****ty speakers + OMGWTF perfect amp = ****ty sound. There is very little room to f...ck up in a modern amp but there is a myriad of things to screw with in the speakers. P.S. I find lossless from SD card to be the best, BT audio tends to be of a ****ty quality, same tracks from android auto sound much better. IMHO canton is quite good (except for the sub being a piece of crap).

bs. 1. most of the damage (beside the brutal force) comes from small abrasive particles that are being dragged on the lacquer on top of the paint. No more gloss after that finest sand paper treatment. Pressure washer washes those particles away from the lacquer, no dragging happens -> good thing. 2. CHEAP NON INDUSTRTIAL washers have that misty effect ant small water consumtion. Washing comes in that case from rather the pressure, not from the water flow. Industrial or high quality washers have large water consumption that washes the dirt out. The dirt goes away with water amount per time unit, not with the pressure -> good thing. 3. Spraycan paint havent any protective lacquer on top of it. I could fart on it and it chips. nuff said. 4. Main problem is the ultrathin layer of dust remaining on the top of lacquer after pressure wash. I have only came up with preemptive waxing and thick woolen glove + frequent rinsing to minimise the damage. Verdict: prefer pressure washer and if really not possible then use as much fresh water as possible.It gets most of the s..t off -> less damage from sponge. P.S. Those "ring action" nozzles are quite brutal to the finish and i have managed to clear some areas of my good-ol-wauxhall..., so be careful on skoda

I use the seats quite often, they are getting very hot in the beginning, no matter what setting you have. Later the heat level settles down according to the setting 1,2 or 3. I thaught the startup heat was a technological "feature". It would be interesting to know, whether VAG engineers have put some VCDS smartness into the heat program, to provide more oomph and happy customers though...

There are often things that annoy you sondwise, so for example does the standard system. Tweeters and all. For extra money you will have Canton that is far less annoying, it is easily listenable. IMHO that extra pays off. Why that much wining after all? Canton is not a high-end system. Skoda is not a luxury car.

I use Bolero daily to play music from SD-card. My music is in folders by the album, folder name is in format "Artist blablabla - Album bla bla" in the folder there are files and cover art (artist - album.jpg) . I never use shuffle. My observations: There are sort of two ways of seeing the list: artist view and album view. I use the first one. The defaul list is the list of artists and if you press the artist, it moves to the list of albums by that artist. In the list of albums, there is small "Play" button in front of every album. From there you can either play the album directly or, if you press the label next to the play sign, move to the list of files. The logic seems to play all files in the album, then move to the next album of the same artist, until all albums are done. Then it takes the next artist's first album etc. If that is what you want, then the hint may lay in the different default view. I remember that you can cange the view by pressing the most left "note" tab on top of the playing song.

ACC radar and tinted rear windows .... too lazy to do them and those few % would be better than nothing :(

I think I just put album art jpeg into the album folder, the file name had to be an exact match. For example if I had album folder "album 1" then in the folder I needed "album 1.jpeg". When Bolero opens the folder, it finds the art and displays it next to the song. Pay attention to the size of the jpeg, someone already mentioned that it needs to be something like 300 x 300 px.

replicating your phone display on the infotainment screen = using any of your own apps is what mirrorlink is supposed to do. In order to comply with safety regulations and whatever business issues, there is a restriction on non-certified apps whitch turns the screen blank while moving. Its a pity that so few developers undertake that path of getting their apps certified. imho sygic + mirrorlink is a low cost alternative for offline sat nav. On the other hand android auto needs internet connection, is ugly as hell, can't be configured (colours, maps, anything whatsoever) and spies on you big time. Plus this stupid feature of showing night (pretty much unreadable) map when low beam lights are on, even during the daytime. Hope mirrorlink will be available via BT + remote charge at some point and make connecting of the phone hassle free.

it is possible to retrofit webasto or eberspächer easily. For electrical warm up google defa or calix warm up.

take a look into abovementioned load of manuals. 81KW engine things are in the manual for 66 and 77 KW engines, not mentioned in the title. Not sure if it is exactly EA288 though.

Here are some thaughts. I have no skoda yet (expecting one though) but have some experience with audi handbrake. Firstly - when you have a habit pulling the lever not straight up but somewhat to the (in my case left) side, the teeth and the rachet inside the lever gradually become misaligned and the lever starts to skip or disengage. As the tension is downwards, it skips off the brake . Had figured that out, I used some force to bend the lever back, in my case to the right and it started to hold perfectly. Secondly - On my audi, I noticed once that the hand brake button somehow started to sink into the lever and one day I couldn't reach it. Had scrached the cabbage for a while, I discovered that the grip part of the lever had slided forward and the button stayed in place. It turned out to be an easy move to push the grip back but really - visually it looked like wtf and gave no clu that such an easy thing could happen. Cheers P.S. Where I live, there is often a feet or two of snow and -25C. After few times of having stuck rear wheels (snow melts to the disc and effectively blocks the weels with engaged hand brake as it cools), I never use hand brake in winter. My sequence on manual gearbox car - get in the car, press clutch + brake, take the gear out, start the engine and release the clutch. Works fine, 2 errors during last two years when I forgot to take the gear out and then the engine stopped due to the pressed brake pedal.