Jump to content

Skouter

New here
  • Posts

    3
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Profile Information

  • Location
    Melbourne, Oz

Car Info

  • Model
    2010 MkII Octavia Scout 103TDI

Skouter's Achievements

Newbie

Newbie (1/17)

  • First Post
  • Week One Done
  • One Month Later
  • One Year In

Recent Badges

0

Reputation

  1. Thanks for the replies. I'll throw it over to my independent VAG guy and see what he says. I'm sure I can find a locksmith who could do it. Definitely not worth a 'do I feel lucky' job, wioth two perfectly fine keys in hand - there are bound to be only five blank slots in that .44 magnum! 😉
  2. Car is a 2010 Mk11 Octavia Scout MZ1. I know this is an old thread, but I want to be sure my particular issue is valid to some of the suggestions in this thread. We lost the last of our 2 keys six or seven years ago and had to do the whole import 2 x keys from Germany (to Australia) and pay to have the car towed to a dealership and then be recoded to the new keys. Six weeks without a car, an x-rayed dog!! and countless hours searching for it ... AUD$1000 exercise in pain. Lo and behold, today that last key reappeared - like Lazarus, risen from the rotting innards of an old armchair destined for the tip!! It had gone way down below the linings into the spring and stuffing cavity of the chair. The battery is even still good ... red light comes on when lock/unlock are pushed. My question is, while the key blade obviously works and can open the driver's door, can I safely use the recoding techniques found on YouTube to reprogram that old key to the coding of the new keys (the dealership reset the CPU in the car to match the new keys)? One vid shows putting a key that had a flat battery in the ignition, turning to 'on' and then pressing the 'lock' button to reprogram that key to the car. I'll happily try it but don't want to compromise a perfectly functioning system. We still have the two new keys, but one does go missing a tad too often and I stress big-time when we only have one key and no spare. Seems like a no-brainer to reintegrate the long, lost prodigal key back into the Scout family ;-) . But if it came to paying another $150 to have the dealer do it I probably won't bother. Any advice most welcome.
  3. I had a similar problem with my 103 TDI Scout (I'm in Australia). I always used Shell Helix Ultra Extra 5w30 but Shell have either discontinued it or renamed it and I couldn't find any oils with the VW507 spec, so I used a Castrol fully synthetic 0w40 specifically labelled 'For Diesels with DPF Filter' and rated to BMW Longlife 04. I thought the higher visc rating would be better for Australian summer driving, but was a bit reticent, so I emailed the Castrol tech dep't and they recommended I drain the oil and fill with Castrol Edge fully synth 5w30, saying that the 0w40 didn't meet the VW507 spec; they only produce two oils that do. I took their advice and - sadly - drained AUD$85 worth of oil and easily found the 507 rated 5w30 Edge they mentioned. Peace of mind was worth the extra $$$ involved. It's not just the low SAPS, but viscosity at startup and all manner of things. I simply didn't want to risk it. Much happier with the VW507 in the sump.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Welcome to BRISKODA. Please note the following important links Terms of Use. We have a comprehensive Privacy Policy. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.