octaviani

Hi guys so the bcm on my 09 octavia left the chat recently and I had an auto electric place code in a second hand one for me . The issue I'm having now is when i select side lights the actual side lights only the filament is glowing and the drl in the fogs illuminate. The car never had the drls working prior to the bcm replacement and thr car lock never chirped either. Another issue I have is both door mirrors aren't working and I tries to replace them with an aftermarket set but still no luck. Any points greatly appreciated.

Hi guys , so I had posted in the MK2 octavia section but thought I'd try here to. So I think I have an issue with the BCM module on my car. I had the O/S/F indicator stuck on solid. It had been left overnight and drained the battery. So I've read through older posts on this Forum that the Hids that were in the car have fried the module. I've had other issues but not 100% if they are related to the BCM. So the BCM currently fitted to my car (2009 octavia elegance) has a part number 1k0 937087D . I then found one from a breaker car (2009 octavia elegance also) but it has thr Part number 1k0 937087J. I went to my local auto electrician who wasnt very helpful and i felt he just fobbed me off. So thr local VAG specialist cant see me until end off next week, but I'm trying to find out will the BCM from the breaker code to my car and does thekeys etc need programming to the "new" BCM? I've read that many posts but none really have a straight forward answer and I'm now just confusing myself (never mind getting frustrated with the bloody car) . So if anyone can help with any info it would be appreciated.

Right OK I've been up and got the bcm of the breaker car (same year/model as mine) but the bcm is 1k0937087J were as mine is 1k0937087D . Google says the D variant is medium/High model where as the J variant is a high model. And help on this guys I'm leaving it to a friends who thinks he can code it for me.

No its defo the bcm. From reading other posts symptoms I've been having up to now would explain everything. The dash clocks are sort of dimming/ flickering now. Plus it's only the front indicator that's stuck on. The car had hid kit in it when. I got it so that's what also help convince me it cooked. So id say the damage was already done. But are bcm's a straight forward swap or are they needing coded? I read somewhere it's to do with the immobiliser

OK, guys, this car has just put me over the bend now!. So I went to set of for work this morning and the car wouldn't start. While walking to it I noticed the drivers side front indicator was stuck on. So I asked the wife to help me jump start the car with hers and she said "yeah that light was on yesterday when I was at the shop" . So has the light just drained the battery? But from other posts on here Im assuming it's the BCM that's fried . So I know a breakers just up the road breaking a 09 octavia elegance so I'm assuming it'll have the same part number BCM. I spoke with the auto electrician this morning and he thinks I can just swap the modules over without coding is this possible?

Well the car went back. It wasn't the slave cylinder it was the master cylinder .

Yeah it does share the same master cylinder from what I've been told before. The symptoms would be air I'm the system but I think the garage I used are just trying to fob me off. This is why I hate using places I don't really trust.

So guys after having my rear brakes sorted (after an mot failure due to imbalance) my clutch pedal will stick half way or go to the floor. The garage said they only cleaned up the carriers and flushed the brake fluid . But today the clutch pedal went that far to the floor I had to turn the car off to avoid it hitting the car in front. I sat for 5 mins and was able to get it out of gear again. So I called into the garage and said i suspect there's air trapped in the system, but he told me that couldn't be possible after only having work done to the brakes. He's now said to drive it for a day or two to see how it goes after filling up the brake reservoir. So will the brakes need bled again or the clutch? He's said the slave cylinder is on the outside of the box on the octavia (I'm not sure?).

Thanks for the info guys.

Hi guys I'm looking to see if there is any difference bar the shape of the smooth and ridged rear brake callipers. I have a 2010 1.9 and it currently has the ridged ones buy ny 2004 1.9 has the smooth. Reason is I need a rear caliper for my 2010 and my friend has a set going cheap but unsure if they would swap over.

Probably a bit late to this. But one off my vectras had a similar issue once. It was the thermostat stuck open.

Hi guys so I bought a 2009 1.9 Octavia elegance estate. I had a couple of niggles with cv joints and drop links which have now been sorted. But I'm having an issue with the cruise control not working and an airbag light coming on (hasn't come back on since it was last cleared). So my mechanic scanned the car and has 2 fault codes. Do my the plastic steering column wasn't screwed down when I got the car and somebody has cable tied the steering control module on . I haven't had a chance to get it to clip in properly (as if something is stopping it clipping into place) and replace thr missing t8 screw. So at present I've 2 fault codes and my cruise control isn't working neither is my turning/kerb lights in the front fogs. I'm also getting random faint lights on the instrument cluster glowing in the background or flashing while indicating. -P1698 steering column electrics read out dtc upper limit exceeded -p00588 drivers side igniter upper limit exceeded My mechanic thinks it could possibly need a new clock spring ( I think these need coded) Also at times I'm getting a slight hesitation/judder when accelerating I'm not sure if it's a dity egr sticking or not. Any help would be much appreciated to see if I can tackle this especially on the backside of Christmas with funds tight. Also I don't want to start pulling things apart unnecessarily or making things worse. I was advised to take the cluster out and spray it with electrical cleaner to see if that does anything for the mystery lights. And as I said the airbag light has stayed out at present. It originally came on after I pulled the wire for the parrot hands free system to restick the screen.

While I was working at the car today I cleaned the cruise control stalk with contact cleaner, but its still not working. So from reading other post about CC not working people are saying to replace the clutch switch. So I read a post about a yeti and the depress clutch message for start up. So should my facelift mk2 be displaying that message? If so it's not so im wondering if that's the problem? Has anyone got the part number form the switch?

Thanks I'll try that first.

So I have purchased a 2009 1.9 estate as run around but I noticed that the black housing around the steering column was all loose so had a poke at it and there's no screws in it! Also the steering wheel module has been table tied on also . So my first question has any one a list for screw sizes to tighten it all up again? But I've now noticed fault thats jsut started to ,so when I indicate left or right or use the hazards the amber fuel light is flashing faintly which I find strange would anyone have an idea what could possibly be the problem? I need to get it sorted as the cruise control isn't working too. I did separate the stalk but it doesn't have a plug it looks like it's hard wired. But i haven't had a chance to try and clean the selector yet or get the mechanic to run his vcds on it . So my plan was to try cleaning it before throwing parts at it .

Hi guys I'm wondering if its even possible to retro fit mk2 superb seats into a mk2 octavia? I tried to Google it but it's mainly for mk3 octavia/superb. The only other post I can find is fitting other vag front seats into a mk2 octavia.

Hi guys can anyone help me out? So I'm currently replacing the springs and shock on octavia combi and I'm wanting it to sit slightly lower . I had fitted aftermarket vrs springs to my hatch and it made a real difference but I know the Greenline model sat lower and I'm just wondering how much lower did it sit than the vrs. Im also looking any part numbers so i can cross reference i have tried to google what im looking for but it just becomes a mish mash of numbers and gets confusing. Im just looking either greenline or vrs estate spring part numbers for a manual estate/combi . If anyone can help it would be greatly appreciated.

Sorry part number is 861-ska-0001. It's for a mk2 octavia ive been told

Hi guys I have cone across a octavia hatch dog guard which is a genuine accessory. It has the part number SKA-861-0001. I have found one link about it and nothing else. Can anyone help?

Hi guys I've sourced a cheap brand new luk flywheel and cheap brand new valeo 3/4 (can't remember which one) piece clutch kit here locally in NI for my 1.9 bjb octavia. It says online that they are compatible but I'm not 100% on it. Any advise is appreciated guys. Also online when running the part numbers it just gives as a 2004-2010 octavia z1 105 bhp so I'm under the illusion that the likes of a bxe bjb engine etc all fall under this umbrella or am I wrong?

This is why I'm looking for any pointers. I did look into this a good few years back and tried to do my homework. The problem now is there's that many "military" paints about and most seem to offer the same specs but as you said some easily mark so I'm trying to see if anyone had had any experience and advice in which paints are best. I'm looking at a satin finish. The proper stuff from what I read is a CARC paint which I think would be on the expensive side and I'm trying to keep the budget to fix up the car up as small as possible. Plus I'd say carc paint would be on the risky side.

(Apologies guys i know a bit long winded but trying to explain why im doing what im doing too) Hi guys so not 100% where to post this but here it goes. So I have a 2004 mk2 octavia and to which most off you will understand like to rust (well like most cars ) . Well my car started out as a brand new factory order from Aberdeen. It spent its first 4-5 years from what I can see there and most would know they don't have the most forgiving winters with plenty of salt on the roads. So fast word to know and I've had thr car for about 10 years (and about 60k miles put on it) and hasn't let me down . So in the last year she's has started to become very rusty so I'm in the process of treating the surface rust on panels and welding in need outer sills (fingers crossed the inner sills are either fine or salvageable). So as she's the guts of 21 years old and basically my battle bus (dump runs, taking the dog out and basically sits in my works carpark 15 hours a day) so I'm looking at tidying her up to keep her motoring for a while yet as she's only got 147k miles on her . So down to the question in the title has anyone any suggestions on military paint that I could use to roller on (yes I know it's a cheap resto) ? I had thought about using rusty paint too but I'm swaying more to painting her with olive drab or aircraft grey military paint on my drive .

Bump

Hi guys so I have got myself a set of (I'm lead to believe) VW westwood (BBS) split rims. They were dirt cheap but are in a bad condition so will need a full refurb. I have never worked in split rims before so does anyone have advice one best way to strip and rebuild them. They will be getting shot blasted and powder coated I'm not a 100% sure on colour combo yet but was thinking satin black centre with shadow chrome barrels as I don't want a polished lip as I don't want to run the risk of the dreaded white worm returning. At present all I k ow I'd I'll need to get myself a m7 spline bit to remove the bolts but I'm hearing diffrent stories about reusing the wheel bolts. Any help appreciated guys

Hi guys I'm currently looking a car as a stop gap to take mine off the road to get some work done. I'm not wanting to spend mad money on something buy I've stumbled across a high mileage VRS that I could possibly strip when I'm finished as I'm looking a vrs interior etc to "jazz" mine up. But has anyone any advice on buying a high miler vrs with the common rail diesel engine? Don't want to buy something that leaves me stranded while I'm sorting my own.