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Hi All, I am coming for an advice, as I could not find any information on web and thought, this is the last place of wisdom. Basically, I will relocate from UK back to Czech Republic soon. I will export my 2008 Skoda Otavia vRS with me and to be able register car there, I need to convert front headlight to suit legislation. Is it possible to rebuild them for EU roads? I checked the user manual and there is only temporary solution. Many appreciated any input from you. Marian

Hi, is this still for sale please?

Hi I used this paint. https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/laknatrmen-brake-caliper-painting-set-32139.html and painted before I fitted a calliper but only because I was changing it. Can’t see reason why you should not be able to paint it on the car, just the result will not be probably good as if you have it off a car and don’t let any paint on disc. Good luck

I would swap it for TFSI 😃 There is on for sale in classified. On serious note, I would try to get 2nd engine and and make sure its CR and not PD…

I payed 4 years ago £3.2k for my petrol 2008 vRS. For your price I would expect pristine condition and not the one with blown turbo and engine by your description.. To the losing power, if the problem started after fitting induction kit, look for air leaks. The water in engine is not good sign and can be blown head gasket in better case, worse scenario crack in block or head.

Is 6k together with buying price or just for repairs? If only for repairs, I guess another 2-3k for you will be no problem…

Problem solved. It was loosen earth contact located behind carpet trim on left hand side where the CD charger is. so might help to someone

Update: So did a little bit of investigation and came to this: Physically opened tailgate its not displayed on maxi-dot. In same time boot lights, number plate lights and rear wiper doesn’t work. Im still able to unlock and lock tailgate via remote knob but the door mechanisms sounds “lazy”. It thought it might be contact or wiring, BUT if I open and shut rear left door, everything is back to normal and working like a new🤔🤔. I have removed tailgate trim, checked wiring and connectors but did not find anything obvious. Are there any earth contacts in back of car which might be loose? Thank you.

Hello All, I’m coming for advise after I tried to find answer here on forum to my intermittent issue my mk2 Octavia developed. Are rear number plate lights, boot switch and rear wiper linked through same ECU? I have intermittent fault when rear number plate lights stop working which is signalled on dash. In same time when I try to open boot door remotely via middle button on key fob, it’s unlock and boot lid pop to open but after closing lid the central locking system wont lock the lid door and I have to manually press down fob button for unlock whole car and top button for lock whole car. I have checked wiring loom and it’s look intact. Tomorrow I’m planning to remove trim on lid to check wiring for any water damage… Any other idea?

Is this direct swap on original hub?

Hi Scott, The facelift models have been fitted with chain timing. I believe facelift came in 2009 and yes first production models have been known for timing chain failure so if you find advert claiming timing chain was done I would want see invoice or any other proof. The engine code CCZA. Pre face model will be fitted with BWA engine which are timing belt. I hope it helps.

Buy quantum platinum 5w-40, 5l on ebay around £25 quid, warm up engine, once you are sure your engine oil is warmed enough, drain the oil engine, put in purchased quantum, take it for good spirit drive for 1.5 - 2 hrs, make sure you use all rev range, drain the engine oil again and put a new one, can be quantum platinum again with a new oil filter. The Best engine oil flush you can do. I’m doing it every engine oil service, having 160k miles on the clock and engine going strong without topping up oil between service (servicing every 3-5k miles) and I don’t drive it as a granny. 👍

I think the way I was rewinding old piston in the beginning. Because I wasn’t able to rewind it with caliper in one hand and tool in second hand due to the piston stiffness, I fitted caliper to the top pin to get it half fitted and use 3/8 ratchet on rewinding tool to make it work.

Happy days, a couple of brand new pins has sorted my problem out. 💪 so if anyone want a brand new caliper painted in red, let me know 😃 Thanks again to all

@Golf-Fiend The wheel never got hot from the beginning and I guest a lot of people would let it as it was, I would say in compare with left side, the wheel was sticking by 25% more than other side. But I like to have a car spot on, wanted to sort and ended with totally blocked wheel unable to rotate manually in compare with other side 😀. I believe it will be mix of bended pins and blocked flex pipe after clamping, so both ordered and on the way. I’m praying it’s not anything worse. 😃 Anyway, have noticed one thing, the piston rewinding is not that easy on both old/new caliper, it’s like it has to go over some restrictions, so it might be some blockage in the flex hose... thanks for all ideas and hints, helping a lot 👍

@Tilt 2008, always kept serviced regularly, break fluid included. I clamped flex pipes with those plastic clamps from halford, did not like the idea of clamping hoses but wanted to minimise get air in system as much as I could so I made 💯 sure the right level of break fluid... The pins and proper bleeding is next step....

The grease I’m using is from Textar. The break caliper on the picture is the refurbished/old one. Swapped it back to check if the new one isn’t faulty but old is sticking in same way as a the new one now after I assembled everything together. I did that many times. The disc is moving freely with fitted caliper and rewinded piston fully in. What is sticking is caliper on those sliders if tightened and once the piston is pumped into position to break it’s stuck completely. Must by bend pins, it’s only logical explanation to me...what isn’t is how I bend them 😃 Hopefully the set of a new ones will sort it, otherwise I’m looking on faulty break line or break cylinder 🤔?

So, I did a further investigation of my break caliper problem and I found that in compare with left side, the break caliper is much tougher to move*green arrow* on those carrier sliders *yellow arrow* once tightened. I have cleared and lubricate those sliders, but it didn't help so I guess, need replacement. Question is if the break caliper should be replaced too?

Also I have noticed, once I fitted calliper to the break carrier, before bleeding I was trying slide it and it did not move smoothly on those slides like previous one, so it might get sticking on those break pads plates as they are a new too. I will have a loook over the weekend as I’m busy with work now. Yes, the car was much less driven and parked in garage from November as I have a company car now...

After break bleeding. I may make mistake after calliper fitting in the process of getting fluid into break caliper? Once I fitted calliper, I opened the valve and start pressing break pedal until the break fluid didn’t start coming out from bleeding valve. Than I closed bleeding valve, fill up the reservoir, open the bleeding valve again and start pumping break pedal. Once fill up approx 100ml, I closed the valve and check reservoir...Fill up the break fluid and repeated the process above...

Thanks for input. I have first refurbished the original calliper but i did not help at all. Assumed calliper is damaged behind point of repair I ordered a new, original from TRW, painted red and fitted. The result you know. Wheel is sticking even more than with old calliper. I was doing one man break bleeding way with one way valve on the pipe to avoid air getting into system but when I was pressing pedal, I left reservoir opened, still keeping eye on break fluid level. Could it have impact on it?

For those who changed calliper in past, am I missing any step if I just fitted a new calliper and than with opened bleeding valve pump the pedal until fluid was coming out of bleeding valve?

How do I do that? Just by squeezing pipes and comparing to each other the pressure needed to for compression?

So I ended up with a new break caliper purchase and it's even worse than with the original one. 😃 The angle on break leveler is same on both side, so I exclude its hand break mechanism. What does not make sense to me is the fact it that if I I tighten a new break caliper to the break carrier as it should, I'm not able to rotate disc manually, it's completely stuck. But if I undo a screw holding break caliper to the carrier just a little bit, it's free the disc and I can manually rotate it more easily. Any idea please? I have cleaned break carrier for a dust and rust, fitted a new break pad spacing plates and lube those guide bold...

Wow, so it is possible to undo them without laying under car 👍