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Hi All, I am coming for an advice, as I could not find any information on web and thought, this is the last place of wisdom. Basically, I will relocate from UK back to Czech Republic soon. I will export my 2008 Skoda Otavia vRS with me and to be able register car there, I need to convert front headlight to suit legislation. Is it possible to rebuild them for EU roads? I checked the user manual and there is only temporary solution. Many appreciated any input from you. Marian

Hi, is this still for sale please?

Hi I used this paint. https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/laknatrmen-brake-caliper-painting-set-32139.html and painted before I fitted a calliper but only because I was changing it. Can’t see reason why you should not be able to paint it on the car, just the result will not be probably good as if you have it off a car and don’t let any paint on disc. Good luck

I would swap it for TFSI 😃 There is on for sale in classified. On serious note, I would try to get 2nd engine and and make sure its CR and not PD…

I payed 4 years ago £3.2k for my petrol 2008 vRS. For your price I would expect pristine condition and not the one with blown turbo and engine by your description.. To the losing power, if the problem started after fitting induction kit, look for air leaks. The water in engine is not good sign and can be blown head gasket in better case, worse scenario crack in block or head.

Is 6k together with buying price or just for repairs? If only for repairs, I guess another 2-3k for you will be no problem…

Problem solved. It was loosen earth contact located behind carpet trim on left hand side where the CD charger is. so might help to someone

Update: So did a little bit of investigation and came to this: Physically opened tailgate its not displayed on maxi-dot. In same time boot lights, number plate lights and rear wiper doesn’t work. Im still able to unlock and lock tailgate via remote knob but the door mechanisms sounds “lazy”. It thought it might be contact or wiring, BUT if I open and shut rear left door, everything is back to normal and working like a new🤔🤔. I have removed tailgate trim, checked wiring and connectors but did not find anything obvious. Are there any earth contacts in back of car which might be loose? Thank you.

Hello All, I’m coming for advise after I tried to find answer here on forum to my intermittent issue my mk2 Octavia developed. Are rear number plate lights, boot switch and rear wiper linked through same ECU? I have intermittent fault when rear number plate lights stop working which is signalled on dash. In same time when I try to open boot door remotely via middle button on key fob, it’s unlock and boot lid pop to open but after closing lid the central locking system wont lock the lid door and I have to manually press down fob button for unlock whole car and top button for lock whole car. I have checked wiring loom and it’s look intact. Tomorrow I’m planning to remove trim on lid to check wiring for any water damage… Any other idea?

Is this direct swap on original hub?

Hi Scott, The facelift models have been fitted with chain timing. I believe facelift came in 2009 and yes first production models have been known for timing chain failure so if you find advert claiming timing chain was done I would want see invoice or any other proof. The engine code CCZA. Pre face model will be fitted with BWA engine which are timing belt. I hope it helps.

Buy quantum platinum 5w-40, 5l on ebay around £25 quid, warm up engine, once you are sure your engine oil is warmed enough, drain the oil engine, put in purchased quantum, take it for good spirit drive for 1.5 - 2 hrs, make sure you use all rev range, drain the engine oil again and put a new one, can be quantum platinum again with a new oil filter. The Best engine oil flush you can do. I’m doing it every engine oil service, having 160k miles on the clock and engine going strong without topping up oil between service (servicing every 3-5k miles) and I don’t drive it as a granny. 👍

I think the way I was rewinding old piston in the beginning. Because I wasn’t able to rewind it with caliper in one hand and tool in second hand due to the piston stiffness, I fitted caliper to the top pin to get it half fitted and use 3/8 ratchet on rewinding tool to make it work.

Happy days, a couple of brand new pins has sorted my problem out. 💪 so if anyone want a brand new caliper painted in red, let me know 😃 Thanks again to all

@Golf-Fiend The wheel never got hot from the beginning and I guest a lot of people would let it as it was, I would say in compare with left side, the wheel was sticking by 25% more than other side. But I like to have a car spot on, wanted to sort and ended with totally blocked wheel unable to rotate manually in compare with other side 😀. I believe it will be mix of bended pins and blocked flex pipe after clamping, so both ordered and on the way. I’m praying it’s not anything worse. 😃 Anyway, have noticed one thing, the piston rewinding is not that easy on both old/new caliper, it’s like it has to go over some restrictions, so it might be some blockage in the flex hose... thanks for all ideas and hints, helping a lot 👍