Ian M

Finished the jobs no problems. 60k service, brake fluid replaced cam belt and water pump. Decided I would swap the belt at 60k and not 4 years. The car is almost 5 and a half years old. Original cam belt (Contitech) was in mint condition as were the tensioner, idler and water pump (complete with a fully intact and as-new plastic impeller!). Was using Skudmissile's guide along with Haynes manual. A few of things I would say if you are contemplating cam belt job: i) No need to buy a special tool to set the tensioner - new ones have a hexagonal hole for a bit or allen key. ii) The job is straightforward but quite time-consuming if you haven't done it before. Access to some of the engine mounting bolts is a bit awkward. A good variety of spanners/sockets is advised! iii) You will need to make sure you have a suitable splined bit to remove the crankshaft pulley. iv) I bought new engine mounting bolts (about £12) on the understanding they were stretch bolts but the dealer said they are not listed as such and their guys re-use the old ones. v) Removing the RH engine mount entirely plus the coolant header tank is strongly recommended to give easier access. vii) Don't bother renewing the auxilliary belt as a precaution - mine was like new!

Cheers for that. Yeah, about 5 litres came out altogether from the drain and the water pump. Refilled no problem without venting at the temp sensor - that would have been a right extra faff!

Thanks for that. All sorted. Cam tool pretty tight to get in - the hole in the cylinder head can be tricky to locate. It looks like the tensioner pointer moves around a bit after it's been run. Mine was bang in the centre of the notch when set. After a road test it's moved to the right a bit.

I'm just stripping down to do the above and I've got a few queries: 1) Draining the coolant - I've opened the coolant drain tap and about 3 litres has drained out. Given that the system holds 6.8 litres, half of it is still in there. I know a load more will come out with the pump - will this be as empty as I can get it before filling with new coolant or is there a way to get more out easily? 2) Timing and No 1 Cylinder TDC - is it common to find that the factory setting (this is 1st cam belt replacement) is a bit out? I've got the engine on the timing marks with the crank locked, but the cam sprocket is slightly off the position for the camshaft locking pin to go in fully. Also in this position, the belt tensioner pointer is a way off the centre of the tensioning notch. I presume that when I loosen the cam pulley and fit the new belt, I'll be able to nudge the cam slightly so that the locking pin goes in and adjusting the new tensioner will put things right? Just wondered if this is common or if my engine was never spot-on from new? 3) Refilling the coolant - is it essential to remove the temp sensor when refilling (to avoid air locks) or is this not always necessary?

Using this approach, you could easily fit your own tyres? Simply cut through the new casing, slide it over the wheel rim and join the cut faces with some glue, perhaps using some (big) cable ties to hold it together while the glue sets. Make yourself a cup of tea, etc. Once the glue has hardened, inflate to the recommended pressure.....

Cheers, glad you said that 'cos I pulled it out anyway!

What's the little locking pin (that looks a bit like a sardine tin opener!) for? What does it lock - and when do you want whatever it locks locking? :wonder:

http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/151497-fabia-estate-water-in-spare-wheel-well/page__p__2421080__hl__rear+vents__fromsearch__1#entry2421080

Crankshaft locking tool T10050 Camshaft locking tool T20102 (6mm dia rod)

Anyone know where you can get one from? I've seen that a 12 point 19mmm Hex socket will do - can anyone confirm this? It looks like a Torx/star bolt from the photos I've seen, but they dont come in 19mm (do they?)

Thanks.

Can anyone confirm the type and size of socket I need to fit the BLT engine crank bolt, please? (need to rotate engine during cam belt renewal) Is it E19 Torx? Any links to a source?

Went to the dealers in the end - £89 for discs and pads. Pads were TRW. Could have got these for half the dealer price from AVS, but at least no hassle with postage and delivery, etc. They're fitted now!

Thanks for that, any ideas of Textar suppliers? Know who supplies the OEM rear discs to VAG/Skoda?

Worn the original vRS rear discs and pads out (59k) and would normally go straight for OE replacements but the Pagid discs and Bosch pads available from AVS and/or Euro Car Parts look like they are a good alternative. Anyone with any experience of either? I'm really interested if anyone can recommend replacement pads that reach to the full diameter of the disc! Since new, mine have always left an unswept rim of about 8-10mm around the outer circumference!

Mine have been on for 9k and they are fine. Mind you, they should be at that mileage!

So, am I right in thinking that when I take the covers off, the markers on the old tensioner should be lined up? Similarly with the new belt fitted, stationary and correctly tensioned the markers will be lined up (but will move slightly when the belt is turned/under tension) Sorry if I'm being a numpty, but this is exactly the bit I can't quite visualise...

That was quick, thanks! So, when all tensioned up, and bolts tightened at the end of the job, turned over and timing checked, the markers are lined up?

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Just getting the parts together for replacing the cambelt and water pump on my vRS. Done several on various cars in the past but first time on the Skud. I've got the Haynes Manual and I've read Scudmissile's picture guide (excellent, BTW) but one thing I want to have sure in my mind is setting the tensioner. As far as I can tell, with the new belt on and the cam and crank sprockets positioned, the tensioner is turned until the pointer lines up with the notch on the back plate, then it is tightened. It might subsequently move back out of line, but that's correct? :yes: It's not a case of tightening so that when the belt is under tension the pointer and notch line up is it? :no:

Are we all forgetting about the snow, slush and ice we were struggling through a couple of months ago....? My o/s one bust last year - replacement was about £30 inc. No felt pads like the original tho'...

[*]Slide the bonnet towards you, taking care to disconnect the wiring for the foglamps and the temperature sensor. Deliberate mistake spotted!