raf300

Hi all The driver window on my Octavia 1.6 FSI L&K was intermittent then stopped working. However I can still control all other windows from the driver door switch panel. Not sure how or why but does. I had an auto electrician diagnose it as a faulty motor (regulator) by plugging it in. He checked all electrical plugs that meet the body of the car, which looked ok. I got a replacement window motor, which I changed myself watching YouTube videos. I was pleased I was able to change it, as once I had the panel tools it wasn’t a hard job. Unfortunately this hasn’t fixed the problem, which suggests it wasn’t the motor/regulator. I then had a good look at all the door plugs and discovered the big red wire was loose. I have had the auto electrician come back and he resoldered the red wire to the black plug. However this still hasn’t worked. The error now shown on the diagnostic is attached. 00932 - electric window motor (v147) 012- electrical fault in circuit I was wondering if anyone has had this before or can suggest what I could try to fix it. the auto electrician suggestion is to get a secondhand wiring harness and then use the black plug to resolder all leads to the existing harness, as better than trying to replace the whole harness in the door panel. Also do you think there is possible corrosion within the plug wiring on the car frame side? Any suggestions welcomed. thanks

Hi there Found this post and photo, I was wondering what is the middle black plug with the thick red and brown wire? my gut says it Is power to the window motor? How would I go about repining the thick red wire as mine looks like oxidisation (blue) and is loose? Or do they sell the black pin block? Any info on part number or size of pins would be really helpful Many thanks

I sorted it and disconnected that blue/yellow lead and chime (bell alarm) is gone. Happy now 😊 here is a pic (red arrow pointing to lead) for those people who search in future

Hi all As always I search the forum first to find any advice on fixing a problem. My Octavia 1.6 fsi L&K has the annoying seat belt warning chime on most of the time whilst driving. the wiring under my seat is different to Picture posted in the above thread . Below is a picture of my seat I plan to disconnect the blue/yellow wire connector, which looks to go from the seatbelt buckle. Not the red/yellow wire connector. For those that read this thread, let me know if I am right. thanks

Thanks all for the information. I will check the connectors this weekend and clean them with solution. I will also see how difficult it is to open the window switches on the driver side and clean them too. Hoping this works btw the driver window worked yesterday which was the first time in weeks but today not working.

I had a quick look yesterday morning to see how difficult it was to get the door rubber from it off. It was straight forward. however do any of you have a service manual of some type that helps identify what each of the wires/plugs are?

Hi KenONeill I will look up how to do that and I do have a multimeter. Will I need to take the door card off or is there a way to check from the fuse box or elsewhere?

Hi all I have got a Skoda Octavia 1.6FSI which I have owned for over 4 years. Been great car to date however recently just had the driver window not working. Not sure if it is the window motor as sometimes the window works, just depends if you get lucky when you start the car up. If it does work it tends to work till you next start up the car. Any advice on how to start diagnosing the fault? How to test the switch or is it something more serious? Many thanks

Yes I saw your mesh that's why I thought it is a must to have one if my air con is working to minimise the condenser breaking. Don't understand why car manufacturers do it as standard. I am based in the south east Essex.

Trev, that might be a good spot. I assume you mean picture 1 in my post above? I will check again tonight. If your right I owe you a drink. What will annoy me is I told the garage when they took the car back in, check around the pressure switch and trv as these are common areas to fail according to briskoda forum. I also wrote that on paper and gave it to them. I am hoping it could be that as may be a cheap fix, and if it works I better also make a mesh grill to protect that condenser too.

I forgot to add when I had it regassed it was working. By day 4 you could here the system gargle (howling wind) which suggested air in the system. By day 7 air con not working, so assume most of the gas gone.

I had another look, checking the connectors on the left and the white plastic nut (top right). Couldn't see any dye. Photos attached below. To check the compressor do I need to take undertray off? Everything visible from top I haven't seen any dye.

I will check tonight and report back. I did have a good look and couldn't see any dye but will check again. Cheers

Hi all I like to double check the diagnosis of the condenser leaking at the bottom rear. So I bought a uv torch and had a look this evening. I can't seem to see green fluorescent dye anywhere. Also I wonder how could they have seen the back of the condenser without taking the tray off and maybe the water radiator. I could be wrong and just worrying, but is it the condenser or is it the most likely thing to leak and they just say it is that to change. I took some pictures hopefully they attached. These are the front of the condenser through the grill with a uv torch.

So did you not take anything off the front event the light clusters?

OK thanks all. I will have a second look at how to tackle room the top and decide the best way forward. Also I don't understand how a pressure test couldn't have detected a leak and needed to spend a load f money on regas and uv dye when the leak was losing the gas in a week.

Hi all I also have an issue with my air con on a octavia mk2 1.6 fsi engine. I had a cheap offer regas Sept 2017 and it lasted about a week. So I knew there must be a leak. Last week I took it to a local specialist ac garage. They did a nitrogen pressure test and said they couldn't find a leak. So they said next step is to regas with uv dye and see how it goes. Cost was £100 to this point. At first nice and cold air. A week later the air con has stopped. They have inspected it with a uv light and said it is the condenser, a hole at the back. I asked likely cause. They said leaves and bugs just get in and over time it corrodes. I did ask why didn't the pressure test find a leak, which they said they can only pressure test up to 3 bar as any higher can damage internal components. Quote for condenser replacement and regas is around £400. Looking online, job looks straight forward but just need time and patience as whole front has to come off. I wanted to know, is it possible to extract the condenser from the top without taking the whole front off? With the car being a 1.6 fsi engine is there enough space? Any advice would be much appreciated.

Hi all, an update to help others. I lifted out the seat connector but could not get to the jack to remove, seemed the wiring was attached under the seat. So I had enough room to take it apart. I used wd40 and an ear bud to clean the electronic circuit. (Couldn't think of anything else I had to hand) give it a couple of wipes, let it dry. Then put it back together all working now

Thanks I will give it a go and report back. Btw taking the seat button panel out, is it just lifting the panel from the top? Nothing from under the seat to take apart? cheers

Hi there, i didn't want to start a new thread on similar topic. My octavia FSI L&K 2006 has got an electric seat problem. I cannot set or overwrite a new seat position. When I start the car, sometimes I am able to change the seat position but then randomly during the journey it will move back to the he saved position. Anyway to reset all memory of the seating stored postions? Without a vcds ?

Update after driving last night. I would describe gearbox as tight and notchy. Seemed better by end of the evening but not always smooth when changing gears. I am am going to take car back to specialist and discuss having fully synthetic gear oil put in.

No not that I can tell but I don't use my car every day and it's not that cold in the morning the last few weeks. I would say it is random, sometimes smooth change sometimes feels notchy.

Interesting you say you run semi synthetic as he specialist said they also put semi synth a lot of gearboxes they do and rarely have any problems. Is is it possible that a new rebuild box will feel notchy because it is new? Plus sometimes after a drive, car is turned off and putting it straight into reverse from first sometimes doesn't go in. You have to go into 1st and then back to neutral and then put into reverse ?

Thanks Wiilydog. By the way how much oil is needed for FSI 1.6 gearbox?

Update on my gearbox rebuild. The car has been ok but the gearbox feels notchy and occasionally you have to be conscious not to rush gear changes. Ringing the garage to see if there is any reason to take the car back in. They mentioned they used semi synthetic oil in it and do so in many gearbox rebuilds. Now my question is what gearbox oil should the octavia Fsi 1.6 use, after a rebuild? Any info will be much appreciated.