soviet

22 July, 2008

You can get devices that text you if your alarm has been set off, and they can also be used to track your car. For example, Toad Text Alert Car - Caravan- ATV Alarm- GSM Pager. on eBay, also Car Alarms Immobilisers, Security Electrical, Car Accessories, Cars, Parts Vehicles (end time 19-Jul-08 13:08:45 BST)

Hi, anewman,

The Toad pager system is looking good here, and is the cheap one too.

Thank you for this information, this is good.

Soviet:thumbup:

16 July, 2008

Would be very easy to do, but I get the feeling you could p*ss off the emergency services.
You would want an old phone and a car charger, then build a small switching circuit that works out when the phone battery is low and turns on the charge circuit which is connected to a permanent live connect.

All this could go inside a small plastic box and you could hide it behind the glovebox of similar.

You would need the IMEI number of the phone and it might be worth keeping a PAYG SIM in there and keeping the number valid by topping it up just as it's about to be terminated for non use. That way there would be a number to triangulate to, which may be easier as you could use the online trace my mobile websites.

You would obviously need to set that up and then reply to the text to authorise before you installed it into the car.

Service wise it would be £5 once ever 3 months to top up and a new phone battery every year or two.

Hi Cheezemonkhai,

You have gone in to the much detail here, which is good, and I think that the idea is also a good one, and would be the cheaper money than a tracker contract.

What the car the cost of the car is, is needed to be considered, if it is worth the while of doing all of this.

Any way it is nice to speak with you again.

Soviet:)

16 July, 2008

hmm, i think he forgot to mention about adding a fuse to the circuit, dont wire things upto the battery without a fuse

Hi Teflon Tom,

I also was thinking that also, as it is bad electrical practice, but maybe he is not aware of this part of things.

Soviet

16 July, 2008

Hi Good old Soviet here,

I have seen this film here, and think it may be good for some that want to do it. I have not tried the idea myself all ready but it is seeming to make sense.

DIY: Build your own free or inexpensive car tracking system at BrainStuff

Any Briskolian that has been doing this, or knows of this could give ideas.

Soviet:)

15 July, 2008

Just spend 3 days in London visiting my mate who moved from Finland to work in a city job chasing the big ££££.
But where were all the Octavias? Went around west, central, east London and spent all days wandering around. Only saw 1 OCtavia, where where all you guys? Or are Octys banned from entering London

Hi McSkoda,

Possibly touring Helsinki and country, with out telling us here.

I am sure that some members here can send you Octavia photographing.

May be the new boss, Boris Johnson does not like the best cars going in to the city.

Soviet:eek:

7 July, 2008

Hi K04,

I wish you the very best of luck for your problem, but would it not be cheaper for having the problem diagnosed at Skoda, and then having the fix made at a local good back street garage?

Would this save you money here?

Soviet

25 June, 2008

Hi Phillipe,

I was also having the similar problem, which is when the sun is shining on to my drivers door, the central locking for it is loosing all power. I also had a bad lock which was a barrel and cylinder, but this one is now fixed.

I am not having time as yet to look for my problem, but so you may find this link useful:-http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?p=666727

There is to be always found some problems with these central locking on drivers door, on this forum.

I hope that this will be help for your problem.

Soviet:thumbup:

16 June, 2008

Dear ALL,just found briskoda is very right place for my SKODA OCTAVIA GLX2.0 .

Hi and welcome lawrence181. You have found the best of the car web sites with this one, for information, and the friendly people also.

Greetings to you

` Soviet:thumbup:

4 June, 2008

Update: Following greg123's advice I attacked the completely stuck lock on my tailgate:
1) CRC Brakleen lavishly applied;

2) CRC Lock Oil Pro (haven't tried that one before, but label was reassuring).

I applied steady pressure on the key that suddenly moved! and now the lock is as good as new.

I'm a firm believer in CRC's chemical products - the classic CRC 556 (probably just the same stuff as the maybe more well-known WD40) has saved me many times in the future when rolling (or not rolling) in cars less reliable than my present one.

Hi SwedishSkoda, How are you? nice to be speaking again.

I have used this one called WD50, and I am finding that it works fine at the start of things, and later when it drys, the problem is returning. Its is very good for freeing thing that may be stuck, but when it drys the problem will be worse again.

Regards to you.

Soviet:)

4 June, 2008

A bike shop. If you have unknown junk in the locks blast it out with some spray solvent - eg carb cleaner or brake cleaner, let it dry, then fill it well with the runny PTFE/Teflon dry lube and work the key a few times. You should be good after that!
I have used light oil with PTFE in it before, but that's as far as I'll go as I have seen a steering lock that had to be smashed out, just because it was greased and the key no longer turned.....

Greg.

Hi Greg,

Thank you for answering me with information on this one. I will now do as you suggest.

I hope this will then be perfect for the car in its life.

Regards

Soviet:thumbup::thumbup:

3 June, 2008

Hi Greg, This is most interesting what you are telling me here, and when the copper ease has been taken away, then I will get some of this PTFE/Teflon dry lube.

Thank you for putting me right on this one, but where am I likely to buy this from?

Soviet

2 June, 2008

Hi Good old Soviet here,

Having had the old lock in all the pieces, the design is very basic here, and is not, what I believe you are calling, 'state of the art'.

And so to me it would seem, that Skoda should be using a grease, or the graphite one with no colour maybe.

Basically speaking here, the lock is just a sprug loaded paddle that is allowing the key to be turning both ways while engaging in the central locking switch.

The word I have now got for this is primative design.

Soviet,

Thank you for all the help my friends.

2 June, 2008

You do know that many modern locks are designed to be run dry and that in fact putting grease in can make them stick. This is because the pins will get stuck in the hardening grease and instead the lock is sent out dry but lubricated with dusted graphite.
Just a thought. Should you want this stuff locksmiths do sell it either as a powder or as a light spray oil which shouldn't bung up the lock but will add plenty of graphite to the cylinder.

Hi Cheezemonkhai,

This lock could be the one designed to be dry, but I do not think so, as so many Skoda owners with MK1 are getting the lock problem.

I have heard of this thing called Graphite grease, but this is a black one I think, and would dammage clothes with the key also.

I have not seen the spray for this, or a powder however, but maybe this has no colour?

Regards to you, and Thank you

Soviet:thumbup:

2 June, 2008

I remember getting some of that copper grease stuff on my shirt and jeans once when doing the plugs in a Zetec engine.
The shirt and jeans had to be thrown out :eek::(

Hi Chickens eyebrow,

This copper thing seems to be the one to be avoided if it does this to clothes, and so I must remove this as soon as I have time to do.

Thank you.

Soviet:thumbup:

2 June, 2008

It's evil when on clothes, especially when you dont realise and wash stuff with SWMBO's best undies.
IIRC when my lock was replaced due to screw-drivering by a scroat (trying to get the windows to drop like on pre-mod locks) and it was tight, they simply WD40'd it.

Hi Gadgetman,

I am beliving you when you are saying that this stuff is evil for the clothes. Lucky SWMBO to be having best undies, which must not be spoiled.

You also had a bad lock, but what is this screw-drivering by scroat? I don't get this one.

Nice to here from you again.

Soviet:thumbup:

2 June, 2008

Another disadvantage with copperslip in the door lock, is thst when you put your keys in your pocket it transfers to your clothes and can be difficult to remove.

Hi Fordfan,

I will not need this to happen as it will cause problems with Mrs Soviet when she is doing the weekly laundry. This is another reason to change this.

Regards and Thanks

Soviet:thumbup:

1 June, 2008

Good info there but you're better off using a spray grease or just plain old tube grease packed in there instead of the Copper Slip. Grease is designed to help things move freely and add lubrication whereas Copperslip is a compound designed to prevent two non-moving components from seizing together before they need to be taken apart. I.e, a bearing needs grease whereas a steel bolt in an iron plate would need copperslip.

Hi cloverleaf,

You have some good advice there, as I used the copper slip, because some one told me about it. You have explained the functions of the copper ease and spray/grease very well, and I may take the lock from the door again to add the grease to be safe with this.

Thank you as this information was very useful for me, as I have not used the copper ease before, but thought it would be good for the lock, but I now know the real use for this one.

Thank you so much for the good advice, and I can change this easily.

Regards

Soviet:thumbup::thumbup:

1 June, 2008

Hi Good old Soviet here,

Recently I needed two kits for my drivers side lock to fix it, as the key was becoming very stiff, and then the mechanism failed and the key would just turn without operating the Central locking.

I took the door card off to remove the lock, but the Haynes manual has this one wrong as there is no need to remove the door card. The lock on the MK1 Octavia LX is removed by just loosening the torx type screw on the edge of the door, which would be found covered by a small rubber grommet. (This should be remembered that there is not the need to remove the door card)

After removing the lock the two kits that I bought from local Skoda dealer for I seem to recall £1.99 for both worked fine, but there was a small problem that the casting ring on the barrel had broken away.

The kits did restore operation without the end of the broken barrel affecting operation but I am being the fussy person, who does not want it to fail again so I ordered the complete lock which took a week to arrive from Skoda at a cost of £18.04 and plus VAT.

This morning I am going to fit the lock, and I noticed that the internal mechanism is dry, with not grease and lubrication of any sort here.

I am thinking, it is not so strange that many people are having the problem with these locks if the quality control, is not trying to see lubrication.

I have now fitted this one, and I used a tube of 'copper ease' to put in to moving parts, as I don't need there to be trouble again.

Any Briskolian I would tell them to take out both locks of the MK1 and fill the barrel with copper ease, which is taking all of 5 minutes, but will save on future lock problems.

Soviet:thumbup:

29 May, 2008

Hi,
thanks, but the fuses are all fine (central locking works too!)

The switch really does have four wires coming in and out of it, but only voltage on th ethick two, the thin two have no power on, but a full continuity ok whether contact is made or not.

do you know any more about where these wires lead or what they do - which relay??

the motor unit works fine when supplied 12 from a spare battery i have, as does not stick at all.

puzzled!

ta

Hi,

The Haynes manual is telling me that the two thick wires are brown conected to earth, which goes through the switch to a blue/red wire which is connecting to the earthy side of the motor. The positive side of the motor goes to fuse 38 which is showing a 10amp one.

The Haynes manual is calling box 89, filler cap release switch, (and no relay.) It also shows two other wires a Grey/blue and a brown which go to a signal type lamp. these are possibly the two thin wires that you are saying, but do not appear to have any affect with the filler cap release motor.

Do you have the Haynes manual? As it is being shown on the page 12.28.

Soviet:)

27 May, 2008

Hi to all Skoda fans here!
My name's Kaloyan and I'm from Varna, Bulgaria. A friend of mine from Skoda Club Bulgaria told me about this forum and I decided to register here. It's a great website, great forum ! I allready red some interesting information here, but have still a lot to read ...

Greetings to all !

Hi Koloyan,

A a good welcome to you from Briskoda. I have visited your Varna city several times , but not in the recent ones.

There is very good information here, and all the people are so very friendly.

Good reading

Soviet:thumbup:

27 May, 2008

Hi Lasse25, and welcome to the Briskoda.

I hope that you find this one useful, as the forum people are all so very friendly.

Soviet

27 May, 2008

Hi and a very warm welcome.

You are saying that your door will not unlock.

What happens when you put the key in and turn, or will it not turn? Will it just be turning around, and doing no function?

Does the central locking, make the click noise on the bad drivers door?

I have recently had the problem of the bad drivers side lock also, and I used two Skoda repairing kits. If it is just the mechanical lock where you are putting your key that is causing the problem, then I will get the part numbers for you from my other thread that I have posted here. The total cost of the parts I remember are £1.99 for the two kits.

I can also explain how to do this also.

Soviet (I need to know more of the problem, that you have)

25 May, 2008

Hi,
All relays, or the majority of them are located above the drivers footwell, under a black plastic cover that is being held in by two screws.

And are behind the diagnostic socket where vag-com is plugging in.

The Haynes manual is telling me that there are two wires one brown and the other blue/red but I am not sure if the switch contacts that I am seeing in the diagram are part of the operating switch or contacts on a relay.

The little box is on page 12.28 of the manual (Typical central locking schematic) and is labeled as 89 filler cap release switch, and so my thoughts here are that it is just a plain switch and not part of any relay.

The earth connection is coming to the switch on the brown wire which when operating it pushes the earth out on the blue/red wire to the filler cap release motor, which is having 12v on its other side via a red/yellow wire to fuse 38 in the box, which is the 10amp one here.

I hope that this is some help for your problem.

Soviet:rolleyes:

Hi, after now reading some of your earlier threads on the fuel flap problem I am puzzled as why you have 12volt on the switch, as the manual of Haynes is showing an earth supply to the filler cap release motor. And this would be an earth across the switch when activated.

It would not maybe the possibility that the motor is faulty, and putting 12volt across the switch here, but not enough current to blow the supply fuse? The motor is sticking in one place when power is applied, maybe?

The manual could be wrong possibly, as it is saying that it is only a typical guide situation that is being shown here?

If I get some time I will measure the voltage on the two thick wires on the operating switch of my car, as mine is the same model as the one you have.

Soviet(puzzled)

25 May, 2008

Hi,

All relays, or the majority of them are located above the drivers footwell, under a black plastic cover that is being held in by two screws.

And are behind the diagnostic socket where vag-com is plugging in.

The Haynes manual is telling me that there are two wires one brown and the other blue/red but I am not sure if the switch contacts that I am seeing in the diagram are part of the operating switch or contacts on a relay.

The little box is on page 12.28 of the manual (Typical central locking schematic) and is labelled as 89 filler cap release switch, and so my thoughts here are that it is just a plain switch and not part of any relay.

The earth connection is coming to the switch on the brown wire which when operating it pushes the earth out on the blue/red wire to the filler cap release motor, which is having 12v on its other side via a red/yellow wire to fuse 38 in the box, which is the 10amp one here.

I hope that this is some help for your problem.

Soviet:rolleyes:

24 May, 2008

From the Haynes book of words (I used to own a ZX and keep the manual at work as a reference).
Remove the shrouds.

Remove the retaining nut and washer (about the IM in "SIMPLEX" on the illustrated lock).

Insert the key, and rotate it to the mark between the "A" and "S" marks on the barrel.

Using a small-bladed screwdriver, press in the retaining plip you've found, and withdraw the assembly.

"refitting is the reverse, ensuring that the assembly is secure" . Check that the steering lock functions correctly before refitting the shroud.

Hi Ken,

I put this helpful knowledge that you have given to me in to action last Saturday, as the weather for doing it was very good.

What you told me here was completely accurate, and I turned the key to the mark between A and S and pushed the pip in, and disconnected the brown, black, and Grey wiring plugs from the back and the switch pulled out of the brass barrel.

To get the broken key from the switch was not so easy, as there is a small strange headed screw in the side of the switch barrel which holds the contents inside. I undid this one, and

took out a small latching pin for the central locking release plunger and its spring. This allowed me to then take out the electrical connecting plug, with its red and white wires from the rear of the switch.

Under this there is a small round plate inside with two little grub screws, and after releasing these, the tumbler unit can be withdrawn from the front of the switch.

I did this a bit over quick, and the top tumblers, and bottom tumblers and some of the tiny springs just fell every where around the table that I was sitting at. After much searching on ground and by the area about, I found all of these.

I worked out the problem after tapping the piece of broken key free. all the spring loaded 5 tumblers in the bottom are all the same length, and so I assembled these with their springs, and then I considered that all the the top 5 tumblers must fit the pattern of the key to make them all level, to allow the switch to rotate.

I inserted the key, and with trial and error inserted the different length tumblers on to their springs until they gave the flush pattern and fitted the shape of the key. There is is also a small return spring and little metal piece that has to be held in place as the assembly is put back into the barrel.

With several goes of trying I managed this one, and then reassembled the rest of the switch parts. Finally I used the second key of father in law spare, to test rotation, and this one was now fixed. I put the switch back in to the car, and checked operation of steering lock, and then put back the shroud parts, and fuse box cover.

I have now, recovered my face, that I had lost, at being beaten by this the first time. But the real problem solver in this was of course you. And I thank you again.

Kindest regards

Soviet:thumbup::thumbup:

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