Wolfpred

12v <-- in fact this doesn't measure power. The two sockets could give different Amperes, which would give different Watts (power, W = V · A). Think of the charger of an iPhone and an iPad. The iPad's charger is more than twice the power of the iPhone's, but since they're USB they have the same voltage (5V). If you hook the iPhone to the iPad's charger, it charges faster. With that said, I'm also curious to know if some has checked for any difference between the two sockets.

During the regen my car idles at 1000 revs instead of ~900. If I notice that and I have time I'll drive around for a while till it finishes. I kind of hate to leave the car while the fan is working that way, I suppose the battery does not like it...

Be careful. It's not the same model. That Amazon link is the Helix Match DSP (link). We're looking for either the PP 41DSP (link) or the PP 62DSP (link). Although if our car has only 4 channels, there shouldn't be any difference in quality between using one or the other.

Installing it behind the head unit is still an option... but you might be right and the cables we need are in the unit inside the glovebox. If that is the case I would probably install in inside the glovebox since you say there's no space behind. That way I won't have to mess with the head unit.

Removing the glovebox looks easy. I imagine three possibilities (I'm being the bullet point list guy in this post O_o): Take it out and drill a hole at home. Find enough space behind the glovebox to install it. If changes are needed, it's easier than removing the head unit. The glovebox tray is not that tight-sealed. You could squeeze the cables through its upper side (from behind to inside) and leave the amp inside it. Here are some pics. Pics are good for your health.

I think you're right. I really don't feel the bass is lacking. It's not about how punchy it is, it's about clarity and presence across the range. Putting this into words is kind of difficult/stupid, I hope I made my point xD. I wouldn't mind if it ends inside the glove box, the amp is not that big. Maybe it's even better because if it's behind the head unit and it rattles after the installation fixing it is a pain in the ass. So... is there a way from the glovebox to behind the head unit or you have to create one? O_o

Making progress! So: Only 4 channels needed, so the PP 41DSP should do the job (at ~£230 / 300€) This amp should for sure have enough power from the available cables behind the head unit Even if it's the smaller and simpler amp, it also has an extra subwoofer output It looks like Audiotec-Fischer sends it pre-configured and with the correct cables for the vehicle. Installation should be really easy to do yourself Things missing: Can anyone confirm if it would fit behind the head unit? If not, we still need to run cables to somewhere like below the passenger seat. Dimensions are 185 x 44 x 124 mm / 1.73 x 7.28 x 4.88“ In the "editions" tab (link) there are setups for the Superb, but not for the Octavia. I suppose we should ask Audiotec-Fischer to add it / recommend another setup.

Well, around Canton's cost then xD. It really is expensive, but even if it's not now I'll do it sometime once I get things clear about how the upgrade works, where to get it and where to install it. BTW, the channel question is still on. How many channels does the car's original output to the speaker have? There are amp versions for 4, 5-6 and 8.

Thanks for the tip! I'm not really a bass guy, at the volumes I use the existing bass is more than enough. I'm missing fidelity and clarity. willkiwi, which one did you buy? 62DSP or 82DSP? Can I ask you where? For what you said, do you think the dealer (Skoda) would agree to install it for me?

Thanks for the quick reply. With "dealer" I suppose you're talking about where you bought the amp, not the Skoda dealer. Am I right? I wouldn't mind paying an extra for them to fit it, if I know the installation is simple enough so they don't break anything. How does the quality of your installation look? Thanks!

Hello! I'm looking for a way to improve the sound of my Amundsen and stock speakers (not Canton). The best and cleanest way I've found is to install an amp behind the head unit, this amp being the Audiotec Fischer Match series. How many channels does our car have? Match amps have many possible versions to buy, which one should I choose? I'd like someone that has it installed to share his/her experience with the installation process. Mainly because: Do you require extra adapters to connect the amp to the head unit? Does the amp fit behind the head unit? (I've seen a picture of this setup with other amp) Is the head unit power supply enough or do you have to route a cable from the battery? Do you have to fiddle with the unit in the glovebox or everything needed is behind the head unit? If there's an amp owner out there I'd appreciate the info, it's being difficult to find guides or information about the process. Thanks!

Probably no. That said, I come from a Ford which was starting to have turbo problems. A friend with a different (but with same engine type) Ford had a turbo replaced last year and had to pay more than 1000€. This situation makes me curious about how to keep the turbo in shape, not paranoid. I trust engineers, and I believe these are machines made to last and capable of handling heavy use. Don't be mad, I'm just trying to understand better how things work. Once I've satisfied my curiosity, there's no harm in using the knowledge to put some extra care into our machines.

I knew that one... it was (and still is) quite shocking O_o I read something about long service intervals. If we are talking about the engine oil, 30k is way too much for me. I would aim to 15k.

Yes, I'm looking too much into it MtAdamwood I'm more moved by curiosity and interest in the subject than taking care of the vehicle (which I want to do, of course, just not so exquisitely xD). So you say maintaining it idle for too long won't be good. I can understand it and its relation to EGR. I also got the general idea that people letting it idle 1 to 2 minutes was overkill, a few seconds should be enough. 20 to 30 sounds good and practical to me. I promise to just have fun. This is... for science.

Thanks for the quick reply. I've been reading this while. A lot. Although I'd still love to hear opinions, my thoughts are more or less like this: After heavy use, the turbo is extremely hot. If the oil flow stops and the turbo is in that state, the oil will burn a generate residuals that will damage the turbo in the long term. You want to let the turbo cool down while the oil is flowing (therefor not burning). If you stop the engine, you will get no oil flow inside the turbo, so even if there's a water cooling system that stays on for a while, the turbo is burning the oil it has stuck inside. One of the most dangerous situations: a gas station stop in the middle of the highway. How to tackle this? You use the engine brake, foot lifted, starting from top speed while getting into the station. This way the coolant/oil are flowing and cooling the turbo while you are not using it within the minute or so you spend approaching and stopping. That's massive refrigeration for the turbo. Does the Start/Stop damage the turbo? waaaay many mixed opinions. I believe it does, but just a tiny tiny bit because you will resume ignition in seconds and because there's a chance the vehicle has this into account and keeps the oil flowing. I hope someone else finds this interesting/accurate.