briscaF1

I normally used Hankook (Ventus Prime) but went for Kumhos ES31s (I think) this time. It seemed that 195s were cheaper than 185s when I bought recently. I haven't noticed much difference in performance so far, except that the Kumhos are quieter.

I like mucking about with Arduinos and fancied knocking up something I can use as a data logger for things like Water temp Battery voltage Oil temp Throttle pos Engine load Fuel consumption I know the car displays some of these already but the mk2 my Mrs has doesn't and I'm just interested in knowing a few things about what's going on. Has anyone tried to use obd2 to log before and which pids are in use? Also, on my old Focus, I had some information from a mate that worked for Ford so I could decode the canbus traffic directly (I have some tools for this). Is anyone aware of doing this? The decoding information usually comes in the form of "Vector .DBC" files if this helps to know what I'm really asking for 😉

Interesting topic. I'm on my original battery (2017 car) and have been expecting to have to replace it at any time now. I think the battery is an Exide. I was looking on Tanya for a replacement the other day and saw that they were a lot cheaper than when I last checked. A Varta EFB027 640A is £108 and I'm sure they were £200 last time I checked (maybe during COVID). I couldn't check the link but does the battery really need to be coded to the car or is it really to reset the BCM?

Hi, We had a bit of rain over the last few days around here (roads flooded etc) but when I closed the hatch on the combi, this morning, I heard an unusual sloshing sound. Tipping the hatch to a certain angle allowed water to, well, somewhere between pour and drip out of the lock latch, which I did until it emptied. There's a little rubber bung just next to the latch, which I guess should allow water out but, when I tried to see if it was clear, it disappeared inside the hatch. Is this a common problem? Anything I should be doing to prevent it? Thanks in advance.

I usually do overthink things, to be fair. Thanks for the explanation

That's interesting. I guess that could happen if someone rolls off ramps after an oil change and gets into this situation.

In reverse? Would this be with a spanner on the crank?

You were correct. All good

Hi, How long can the (2014) CBZA engine be left without any oil in it? Is there an issue with the cam chain tensioner draining and the chain skipping on start up if the engine is left without oil in it for too long? On one hand, this seems unlikely as the oil will drain out into the sump, over time, anyway but I'm just double-checking. If so, this seems to be a poor design if you were doing a job on the engine that meant it was without oil for a few days or more. What is the procedure for dealing with this? Do I crank the engine with the plug leads removed from the coil pack to allow oil to circulate before I start it proper? Thanks in advance.

I was looking to use a wireless adapter but wasn't going to be paying £50+ for one (e.g. Motorola offering), so the AliExpress item looks like a decent price. Does it come with a separate usb lead? I've had trouble recently with longer USB leads and Auto and I wondered if the wireless adaptor is maybe using a lead that is longer than 1m? Auto never used to be so sensitive to USB leads as recently but I updated the Bolero and my phone at a similar time so I'm not sure what the culprit is. I have a Poco (Xiaomi) X3 NFC phone

Which wireless adapter are you using?

So much for my previous post. My Bosch "Made in France" filter might have not been correct for the CBZA engine!

Edited.....dunno what happened when posting via my phone....! Hi all, I found this thread half way though changing oil and filter and am maybe glad that I did. I'd bought a Bosch filter the other day, with the correct part number for the CBZA. The part number on the box suggests it is correct. Part number on the filter matches the box and is "Made in France." (Who manufacturers filters in France at the moment?) I didn't look too closely at the filter until changing the oil earlier when I put it next to the Mahle it was replacing (below). The Bosch filter is a little smaller and doesn't have the "shoulder" seal like the Mahle. So, I guess these possibly incorrect filters are still in circulation (mine came from Amazon). I've ordered a Mann, like I should have in the first place, and I guess I'll get in to customer services to see what they have to say about it. I guess the filter may be perfectly correct and maybe it was just a coincidence that someone had an engine problem with this filter fitted but I'd rather not find out the expensive way that it isn't. Thanks for the heads up @xman

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Maybe you saw it already but I emailed Skoda recently and was told it (belt and tensioner) was now "lifetime" which I've taken to be 10 years/150k+. I was going to have it changed next year but will leave it. I've the same year/engine (1.2 4 cyl 90)