briscaF1

I just read the f****ing manual. Seems that there is a bulb to change and I can see how to do it. I saw in another post that only the driver's side reverse light illuminates....

Hi, Partner acquired this 2023 1.0 Fabia last year. So far, the resistor pack for the fan has packed (!) up and the actuator for the fuel flap needed replacing. These were done under warranty. She's had the car back from its MOT and warranty work and now there's a light on the dash saying "check brake lights." The light on the nearside is out and there's only one reversing light, on the offside. Are the rear lights all LED? No bulb I can change? If it is a bulb, how do I get to it? Are there supposed to be two reversing lights? Are there a lot of electrical problems on the Mk4 Fabia?

Does anyone know how to remove these semi-transparent inserts without breaking them? I spent some time last night trying to get them out, complete, without success.

Excellent - thanks :-) I think it's actually the rear hatch harness but it is all good info.

Our sounds like this and I think is has for some amount of time (like, years). It's done 80k miles. There's an occasional noise on startup / after an oil change on ours, too.

Hi, For the ongoing saga, it seems that we've found the root cause. The car had a new battery on last week and had been fine until Saturday when the boot was opened for the first time since the battery was replaced and lights came up on the dash again. I took the rubber boot off and saw a few wires were broken then undid some of the friction tape and saw that some more were! I think the brown wire, light blue/red, black/red and a couple of others. At this point, the engine would not turn off again, car would not lock etc, just as it had originally.I had to cut the boot to get access to the wiring & soldered the brown wire first and that seemed to help a great deal with engine start/stop. I then soldered the remaining wires and all seemed to be back to normal. The problem is now that the boot is cut in half, lengthways, and I suspect rain can ingress into the roof space. I'll try to glue the boot but I think it needs a new wiring harness anyway as I don't trust the soldered wires as they were cracked in other places and won't withstand many more open/close cycles. I believe there's a connector in the rear pillar or thereabouts for this boot hatch section? Does anyone have a guide for replacing this section of harness, an idea of how much of a pig it is to do/special tools required and part numbers for the rubber boot and wiring harness? I'll need to get onto the Skoda dealer to order the bits. Thanks in advance.

Hi, No, I've not been to the garage with it yet. If we're talking about the same noise, I do not think it is the starter on our car as it sounds like it is from the top of the engine and it always does it when I've just changed the oil; I don't see the link between an oil change and the starter motor. I don't know if the chain tensioner is hydraulic (I would have thought not), though. I'm not sure what a throttle valve that is faulty sounds like - are you talking about the air valve (butterfly) ? Just out of interest, do you also hear a slight, short "whoop whoop" when increasing the throttle slightly from idle? I wonder if the noises are related to some wear. Can you get a recording of the noise? I will try to do the same.

It only does it occasionally, mostly after standing for a few days / oil changes so I imagined it was related to a tensioner and/or something draining of oil. There's about 80k miles on the engine and it has been doing it for about 6 months. Is yours making the noise every time? How many miles on it? It's worrying because, if the chain is not tensioned properly, it can skip teeth and cause engine damage. How much did they quote to change the chain and why do you think it could be the throttle valve?

The car does about 8000 miles a year at most but I change the oil myself about every 6 months cos I can change the oil in 2 cars, every 6 months, for about the same money as 1 car every 12 months at the dealer. Plus, this car does lots of short journeys.

How do I get hold of VCDS? I checked again last night on the drive home. At idle, just after engine start, the battery voltage (at CM) was 13.9/14.0V. When driving home, at 1500-2500 RPM, the voltage was generally around 14.1-14.4V so I wondered if it had been elevated before because the battery was brand new, not very charged and still charging to capacity. There didn't seem to be any increase in voltage in engine overrun, like there is on my Mk3. Anyhow, with the engine running at about 1100RPM, and the battery voltage at about 14.1V, if I put the radio/heater fan/rear demister on sequentially, the voltage dropped to 14.0V so I think it is handling load OK. I'm less worried about it now since it isn't sitting around 14.5V all the time.

I do! Is 70k miles a bit low for the alternator brushes being worn? My OBD2 can measure in real time but there is no alternator load % unfortunately.

I did find this, which supports what I measured : Expected battery voltage (for lead acid) Idle (~800 RPM): Voltage starts around 13.5V, which may be just enough to maintain the battery. Cruising (~2500 RPM): Voltage rises to 14.3–14.4V, ideal for charging. High RPM (>3000 RPM): Voltage is capped at 14.4V by the voltage regulator to prevent overcharging.

About 70,000 miles. CM = Control module (OBD2 terminology) = ECU.

Quick update. I just checked with a calibrated multimeter. The OBD2 CM voltage is ~0.1V lower than the meter reading at the battery terminals (which I guess is the best point seeing as this is what the battery is being charged at). So, at least I can trust the OBD2 CM reading. With the engine first started and "on choke" (elevated RPM), the meter reads 14.4 or 14.5 and the CM reads 14.3V or 14.4V. After 30s or so, the engine idles at normal speed and the meter reads 13.9/CM reads 13.8V. if I rev it up, it raises to the ~14.5V (meter/CM). if the alternator setpoint is 14.5V, this all sounds correct, if maybe a couple of 0.1 or 0.2V too high at the battery.

I have the same noise on a 2014 1.2TSI despite VERY frequent oil changes (like, every 4000 miles). I'd be interested in finding out what is advised here.