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Kris82

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Posts posted by Kris82

  1. cega engine? I have the same setup, egr at front of engine with throttle flap bolted underneath it, non censored cooler at back of engine.

     

    Take the black lid off the top of the egr (5/6 torx), then inside you'll access the motor etc. You'll see another 5/6 torx, undo them then you'll find more gunk that's making the valve stay stuck open.

    Cleaning just what you can see in your picture won't solve it.

    Strip apart and you'll see the problem straight away.

     

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=udXmu-CNScM

     

    • Like 1
  2. You say the coolant temp sensor has been changed so rule that out. 
    Obviously as the temp rises in the engine you would expect the water temp gauge on your dash to rise!? Does it?
     

    As simple as this sounds, the two prongs inside the coolant tank can build up with grime, thinking the coolant is empty therefore setting off the radiator fans.

     

    So to start ruling out problems starting with the simplest first I would clean the two prongs in the coolant tank by scraping off the grime with a flat head screwdriver reaching in.

    (Done this myself because I had low coolant light coming on even though it was full).

     

    Also could be thermostat not opening (but would show light on dash).

     

    Mine after 188,000 miles always a bit rough from cold lol so can’t answer that one.

     

    Could be stuck on a regeneration which on our older cars will keep trying to regenerate regardless of cold starts and attempts.

     

    Personally if my car, clean prongs in coolant tank first (easy job).  
    Drive for at least 30 mins or more if you can quite harsh (with over 1/4 tank) or even more if you can to trigger a regen (even though it’s probably trying to do one).
     


    If it was me, check coolant,  check oil, fill up over half , take car for a blast for an hour, to rule out blocked dpf.

     

     

  3. 187,000 miles, CR170 2010, dpf still regens as it should, always clears. But.... it smokes a lot more these days on regen and takes slightly longer to clear.

    I also use dpf cleaner (direct into dpf) once a year. Easiest job you'll ever do for £20.

    Never in 4 years of ownership have I had warning lights on dash to do with the dpf.

     

    @stewrichI would drive it a little harder than 2-2.5 revs to clear it, more like 3 - 3.5revs in 4th, don't be afraid to clear it out assuming engine is warmed up, decent oil in it and full.

  4. Guessing Turbo actuator. Changed mine around 140,000 as rubber diaphragm inside split. Get it tested for vacuum leaks. The sensor on top maybe picking it up.

     

    Or maybe the actual boost pressure sensor itself has failed. See below for it's location ...

     

    IMG_0695.jpg

    IMG_0694.jpg

  5. I changed my rear top mount few weeks ago and I to thought I stripped the thread but I cleaned the bolts with wire brush and lots of wd40 in the holes and they went back in. Maybe I was lucky or there were thread lock on them.

     

    Only solution if there are stripped is to purchase a tap and die set to re-thread the holes.

    • Like 1
  6. Either way the entire lock assembly has to come out of car, I had the same problem as you last year, I bought the whole assembly for around £25 off ebay.

     

    The micro switch on my old lock had worn down to the point it wasn't making contact.

     

    Micro switch from dealer probably cost more than the whole lock assembly from ebay.

    Decision is yours.

     

    I would do either soon though as next stage is the alarm will start going off at random times because the car thinks the door is open after being locked.

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