JoeWils

It’s black mate, it’s currently at my work in Heysham at the moment. If I do buy it I’ll be bringing it home.

I sold my mk1 vrs two years ago to a lad I work with, after seeing 200K she’s dead and looks like she’s off to the scrappers. I have the option to buy it back at scrap value, would it be worth breaking? The thing that draws me back is it has full leathers, not numbered special edition ones but exactly the same, apparently passengers has a small rip in it. would anyone be interested in purchasing anything off it? if no interest I’ll just let her see her final day.

Afternoon fellow members, Currently have a mk1 fabia vrs, I've loved every minute of owning it (apart from a couple of hefty bills). I've had it just over a year done 22K in and now it currently sits at 140,000. Now on a nighttime I find myself looking at mk2 fabia vrs thinking one would look nice on my drive, I love the look of the mk2 and that bit more power wouldn't go amiss. Now why im here, I do 45 miles a day to work and back so I need reliability. Would it be a good move to make? I know a little about the oil consumption issue on some models etc. What common problems have people come across? What too look out for? What are prices on rectifying certain issues? They aren't price highly private sale but is that because people want to avoid the engines? I hold my hands up I could be complete wrong. I've seen one for sale with 160K on the clock so they must have plenty of life in them.

After reading through the thread I'm relieved you bought that one! Seems like you got a steal! Has it had turbo replaced? DMF recently etc?

Evening all, I've decided to write my experience of owning the fabia as I will have been in owner ship 1 year at the end of this month. May help someone looking to buy one and what to look out for im going to include prices of repair bills too just so people have an idea. Initially wanting a polo GT TDI or a 9n3 with a PD130 I decided at the time the prices were to steep and opted for the fabia instead. I bought mine with 118K (now on 136K) on the clock, FSH, cruise control and leather seats so I couldn't say no. This is the work I have had done to it within the past 11/12 months. All has been carried out at a local garage to me as working 12 hour days it's hard to find the time to look at stuff myself. •121K - rear brake calliper (plus labour) - £186 •126K - engine starts tapping, so camshaft, tappets and cam bearings are replaced. Cambelt and water pump is replaced. Along with cv joint as it pretty much **** itself on me, ball joint and a drop link, plus a full service - £1,317.46 • 126K - Full set of Barum Bravuris 3's plus fitting and balancing - £320 •131K - MOT (no failures or advisories) + oil change •132K - new Exide battery - £75 •133K - after knowing the DMF had been on its way out for a while it started to sound like it was trying to escape from beneath me the clutch pedal was vibrating vigorously and any moderate acceleration also felt like I was using a vibrator as an accelerator. wheel bearing and brake pads were also needed. Above we're replaced - £989.57 that's how the car stands at the moment, I know it's cost me a lot of money but I shall be keeping it to hopefully to pay itself off and hopefully the next 12 months will be a lot cheaper! If anyone is looking at a MK1 Vrs (now they're knocking on most are mainly high mileage) I personally recommend ensuring that upgraded console bushes have been done, DMF and turbo and if not make sure you have some disposable cash aside to aid the bills! The reason I mainly wrote this was to make sure anyone looking to buy one gets the idea of th bills you may be expecting if the same parts were to fail, I know garage hourly rates vary too. I love the car though, I love the torque and also never fails to put a smile on my face in 3rd and 4th... insurance is very cheap for someone of my age and the MPG is also driver friendly. I travel 250 miles a week and that costs me around £25. All in all a fantastic car just comes with a few pricey repairs if needs be!

How many miles does your current fly wheel have on? In the ideal world change the lot, obviously more money comes into this though. The way I look at it is if the DMF has done a few miles and you're going to all the effort to get to the clutch, while you're in there then do the fly wheel too.

If you're getting the clutch done get the fly wheel done as well, you may as well kill two birds with one stone. I recently had a full Sachs kit fitted front break pads and wheel bearing... £989 :(

Well I've only done 300 miles this week as I've had two days holiday, tonight I fired the old girl up and for some reason everything seems smooth again... the juddering is almost not existent and the clutch pedal is smoother than ever. Hopefully it was a case of "beddin' in" and the problem doesn't arise again. If so it'll be straight into the garage.

yeah as soon as it was decided to be replaced I told him to fit a sachs which he did, I've done 100 miles since Saturday and seems to not be as aggressive

Cheers for the replies chaps, reading the other threads I'm hoping it'll bed in. All else fails it'll be being replaced, the guy I use is has always been spot on, especially on this job as he gave me 20% discount on all parts including a wheel bearing and all new brake pads. My wallet has become noticeable thin in the year of owning this car :(

Popped in to pay the bill this morning and after a quick catch up with him I mentioned the juddering when setting off and reversing he said I could need bedding in or could be faulty, he said not to worry as everything is under warranty... he said run it for 500 or so miles (which will only take me a week) if nothing has improved it will have to be replaced

Before it was all replaced there was no juddering at biting point, it's only when setting off in first or reverse juddering will happen. Driving through the gears it seems fine. I haven't paid as I picked it up late Friday night and am going in tomorrow to pay, I've used the garage for two years now and never had a problem and the owner is always very helpful with anything for me and my family. I'll find out tomorrow what he thinks and hopefully come to some conclusion of sorting it.

The DMF on the VRS got slightly tired this past couple of months and really didn't have much life left in it so it went in for a new one with clutch and realese bearing etc. I've just picked it up and when setting off in first or putting it in reverse it has an aggressive judder to it for a couple of seconds and can feel it in the clutch pedal. Is it bedding in or faulty? Or has anyone had any similar experiences?

It's the only oil I've ever put in, I know a few people with PD engines that will happily chuck anything in! After a hefty bill for cambelt/water pump and a full new camshaft kit I am pretty anal about what fluids go in! It's off to the garage Monday for a new DMF... then I'm sure it'll be a replacement turbo soon! It's keeping my wallet thin for sure.

Just went and purchased a 5L tub of Quantum platinum for the fabia, £19.99 at Lancaster VW... very reasonable I believe, just letting the local lads know!