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i just used one of these https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FITS-SKODA-FABIA-RAPID-ROOMSTER-REAR-BRAKE-CALIPER-LEFT-OE-QUALITY-BRAND-NEW/254100774705?fits=Car+Make%3ASkoda&epid=2299038266&hash=item3b29961f31:g:RoIAAOSwE-5bxIdU been on a while and probably 20k miles no trouble, given car plenty of abuse and seems fine

dont get hung up on figures, you can run a pretty powerful system with a separate amp and sub with no issues. Car audio draw is tiny unless you are playing it without the engine running for extended periods at high volume. A speakers upgrade will give slight improvements but you cannot fit deep front speakers due to the depth of the doors. You will also need speaker adapters as the standard speakers are riveted to the door. I fitted a 2 way system to my front doors with a crossover, separate amplifier and subwoofer and all wired up with decent audio cable. The sound is good from just the front speakers but there is still little bass produced due to the small doors. A sub makes a much better improvement if you like bass.

my windows do this sometimes, one switch controls the wrong window or they go up instead of down.

thank you, probably no better nick than my current one so ill leave it

what sort of condition is the glovebox in?

Just seen no. 977 is up for sale on Autotrader in North Somerset

Me and a friend struggled like mad to get the box off mine with the subframe still in place. It came off in the end but wouldn't go back on without damaging something. I found it very easy to remove the front subframe which enabled my gearbox to go back on, but I found you need a good beam to support the engine from the top, and a ratchet strap around it to lift the gearbox into position as its very heavy to do from underneath. (as has been said above) If you can get help from someone it makes things much easier and is certainly do-able but will take most of the day going at a steady pace. also a pressure bleeder is needed to bleed the clutch at the end, which was very straightforward and mine bled up fine first time. Some of the bolts should be replaced when you do the clutch change, the ones i did were the engine mount bolts for the dog bone and the gearbox side mount, the 12 driveshaft bolts, and I also changed the diff seals and gearbox input shaft seal which turned out to be what caused my clutch slip after it leaked oil all over the clutch. Some will say dont bother replacing bolts but I did not want to risk it after all the work.

probably a sensor thats failing then, unless its misfiring then its likely to be a coil pack or spark plug. You need to get it plugged in and scanned to find the fault code. If it drives ok no need to worry about damaging anything

is it this lamp? or this?

common on the 1.2 engines. its the valves burning and not sealing properly anymore creating low compression and poor idling

Probably the ballast which has failed. Theres little in the headlight itself to fail other than if a wire has broken which is repairable. try swapping the ballast over to see if that works

software: https://store.ross-tech.com/shop/VCDSLiteReg cable: https://www.gendan.co.uk/product_VAGUSB.html windows laptop to plug it into and your off

i couldn't set mine with a vacuum gauge. if you dont already have vcds its a worthwhile investment if you are planning on keeping the car as it can be useful for fault finding and costs no more than taking your car to someone to do it for you

you need to set up your turbo actuator using vcds. log group 11 for a 1500-4100rpm pull in 3rd gear. It will show what is going on with your turbo and whether the actuator needs shortening or lengthening and if any stop screw adjustment is required. https://uk-mkivs.net/topic/34834-vnt-tdi-turbo-how-to-adjust-actuator-cure-boost-problems/

could be the clutch switch