cello
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Posts posted by cello
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motor could be seized or poor earth maybe , you may have the door card with the bolts rather then the rivets in which case its alot easier to remove the window and check the mech, do it in the good weather , dont wait until autumn/winter .
With the engine off , you may notice the igniion lights dim as you push the window switch , which could be a seized motor / mech .......could be fun getting the window out if you have got a seized mech as you need to lower it a bit to line up the bolts ith the rubber plugs in the doors that then allow you to remove the glass .
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Reviving this topic as my rad started leaking from the bottom and I'm in the process of replacing it now. There appears to be a lot of rads out there for this make/model so I just hope i have the right one, manual gearbox and AC.
Its a bit*h of a job I would say, working on the drive which is on a slope so i cant use a jack, got to the point where I am was going to undo the fan tray but could not see the last bolt on the bottom by the elbows as there is a bunch of electrical connectors in the way arghhhhhh!
So I removed the rad bolts and pushed the rads back but the clearance is just to tight to get my spline driver on the heads and put pressure on the back of the tool to stop it slipping out.
I did need the car for sunday but not sure if thats possible now, anyhow I am doing a video of this so will see ho it goes....
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Not near you but suggest you post a video on youtube and then pose the question in the fabia forum. Mine has done 120k and the turbo whistles at most reves togther with the usual clatter of a diesel engine.
check the oil , do a oil change is a good idea if you just bought it.....good luck
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Roger that...................its the door switch! Thks
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Got a few intermittent electrical issues now.....
Noticed that my fuel range only showed 300 miles after a fill up which should have given me 600 miles. It did not clear overnight but having drove 100 miles plus today its back where it should be. Tank gauge showed a full tank like normal.
Noticed the headlamp buzzer did not sound after I went to get out og the car with lights on.
Noticed the boot does not always unlock when I double click the fob , rear doors function ok.
I assume the above is related to moisture in the car as it has been wet recently and I know the rear door seals need looking at and have noticed that on warmer days or by mid morning everything seems to function fine.......................dehumidifyer needed I think
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Thanks for the info, managed to solder a replacement wire on to the loom and heat shrink it. The connector is available from Skoda at £4 but so far its working well!
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Had my VRS fail to turn the Starter today and having looked up the issue (thanks briskoda) found a broken solenoid wire, I have taken the connector off but not sure I can get it to secure on if i manage to solder a wire into it. Got a bit ham fisted when I could not gwet it off and have wrecked the tab on the plug.
Can you get a replacement connector from skoda or elsewhere?
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Sounds like moisture issues , had the same on my car which then cleared up in spring. Been a good Oct so far so doubt i will see this until late Oct early Nov but suggest you run a de-humidifier in your car one weekend and see how much water it collects.
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Hi All, just a quick question as I had intended to do the n/s console bush today but could not get the ball joint out of the wishbone after removing the three bolts.
I was going to remove the trackrod arm nut and/or the driveshaft nut from the hub that might have allowed a bit more flex on the hub to lever the ball joint out but did not have the correct tools. I did try turning the steering wheel from lock to lock but it did not seem to offer enough play to get the ball joint out. I had not at that stage taken the 18mm console bolt out which may have given me the clearance I needed. Should taking the three balljoint bolts out (and the 18mm) allow you to slide the wishbone out of the balljoint arm?
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Not possible to twist the belt 90deg but have ordered a timing belt kit today so will try and refrain from using the car if at all possible until I can get her in the garage.
Thanks for your responses
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This is the crack
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This is the indicator...
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See the first pix for the indicator but just noticed a crack in the belt on the second.FFS is this about to go ...advice on driving the car please!
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THought it would be a good idea to check the condition of the belt while I wait for the appointment to have it replaced , so when I removed the top cover noticed the indicator needle was outside of the gap on the left hand side.
Is this normal for a belt with 50K on that needs replacing soon - My first guess its stretched a tad and the tensioner is taking up the slack but having looked how the tensioner works it appears to be locked in this position.
Somebody help with my paranoia as I have to drive a couple of hundred miles before the belt gets changed......!
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Had my tensioner and belt go two weeks ago, caused by a locked ALternator Clutch Pulley. Did not have any serious misalignment issues but maybe my belt is slightly off being centered but did not look like it would cause any issues.
I did have a issue with the INA Tensioner bought from a local motor factor not having the correct body shape - only one housing key not two (at 6 & 12 oclock positions) so when this was tightened in the block it looked like it was twisting and would not be sitting on the belt squarely. They ordered another more expensive one (different make ) but this was the same, I ended up finding a dayco one on ebay at a great price (autopartjungle) which was a solid body unit that fitted perfectly.
It does fit with the pin in , point the pulley wheel down to the ground and back it up in to the hole, should not need to dismantle the tensioner but compare the two items to ensure it has the correct body as there are lots of pattern items out there which may not be 100% like the OE item - I believe the dayco item I bought is the same as a Skoda item (Cheaper) as they grind the name of the casting to re-sell as DAYCO.
Good Luck
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Had to order another tensioner as was not happy with the sloppy fit of the INA I initially bought. Now getting a full metal body one as opposed to the one where you can see the spring. Hopefully this one has the two interlock tabs on the back.
Waiting for the pulley removal tool now as well...............taps fingers on the table......my local garage does not have a tool to fit so might as well order one while I wait for the tensioner.
About to order a Gates kit for the timing belt change which includes the waterpump. I rang round for quotes and have £100 to £420 Parts and Labour from a Main Dealer. Hopefully all-in should cost me about 250!
Its definately car month as I might have to do the console bush's and track rods as this was a advisory at the least MOT
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Yo, just took the alternator off as you are correct about the slipper clutch. Locked up like a good'un and something you would not spot if your used to older cars like I am.
As for the tensioner mmmmmm, looking around ebay I found my item and according to the site it does not fit my car! It does figure as when tightening up the bolt it does not feel secure and starts to twist in the housing. Bit pished off at the autofactors for selling me the unit so will have to sort this out Monday when I get the alternator clutch.
My cam belt was last done at 50K nearly five years ago so its now showing 105K so would you agree this is due a change?
Cheers guys once again , thanks for your wisdom!
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Coolio
thanks , was hoping to leave the alternator in situ but if the pulley needs replacing then its more BFBI tmrw!cheers guys
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Thanks for the advice guys, I will have to pop the end cap off the alternator pulley and take a look then but agreed it would explain why the tensioner went.
So the tensioner is correct then, strange that it does not have a locating key at either end of the cylindrical body like the old one. I guess it must be ok , dont suppose you have the torque settings for the securing bolt - not that I can get a torque wrench in there anyway but ......
Re the routing of the belt , no not 100% , not mounted the belt yet but I guess it goes from the top of the alternator under the tensioner down to the crank pulley then ........mmmmmmm maybe this diagram is correct although mine is the VRS with Air Con, are they the same?
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First off what a great site, lurked around for a fair while and gleaned lots of information but now I need to ask a few questions on the AUX Belt Tensioner.
Mine went while on the way to have a MOT, I revved the engine up to 4.5 K a couple of times and thought the traction control made a odd noise but I think what i heard was the belt flying off! After the low Voltage battery light came on I had a look in the bonnet and saw the issue.
I bought a pattern belt and tensioner but not 100% its the right one. The unit is made by INA Part No 534016410 and although it looks almost identical there is a tab missing on the body that slides into the hole in the block. It seems to fit OK but does not seem that positive / secure fit with one of the two locating tabs missing that should align up as per the old unit. Can anyone suggest a site to look up the INA part no I have tried the manufacturers but they dont list Skoda cars typically. Also checked GSF and EuroPARTS and cannot find the same part no listed.
My next question is with the Alternator Clutch, in that I am not sure my car has one fitted. The unit feels smooth when the spindle is rotated in either direction and to me it looks like its just a normal gear pulley with no clutch. There is a metal plate on the end of the pulley which I have not tried to remove yet, but can anyone tell me a way to verify if its a clutch pulley wheel or not?
All this comes 5 days after I have fixed my passenger door window mech , so all the tools are back out once again only this time the car is off the road :(
Engine tray captive nuts I need some ......
in Skoda Fabia Mk I (1999-2007)
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Managed to lose one of the captive nuts that the engine tray is secured by at the back of the engine tray and the extra weight or lack of tightness managed now lost the other with engine tray scraping under the car , in order to secure it properly i need two of the captive nuts that push into the round holes on the chassis ---can anyone suggest where I might source some , tried a Skoda dealer and they were not much help :(