nicknorman

When trying to manoeuvre slowly or just move off gently with auto-hold active, the best thing to do is to momentarily dab the throttle, wait a second or so for the brake to come off, then press the throttle again if necessary (eg if there is a big slope). Just be careful if there is a big adverse slope that it doesn't roll backwards before you press the throttle for the second time. Or of course you can turn off the auto-hold temporarily. If you just press and hold the throttle, it will move off with a bit of a jerk as the brake comes off against the power.

Yes I am a bit rose tinted specs. I just checked the TPS invoice from Sept 2019. £85 for the oil, PLUS £16.91 for the filter PLUS £4.27 for the o ring PLUS VAT on the lot = £128. . Obviously this is where I got the “£85” in my head from. Next TPS invoice March 2022 £109 for the oil PLUS £24 for the filter PLUS £6.35 for the O ring PLUS VAT = £167. 30% inflation between 2019 and 2022! Still cheaper than a dealer service AND if you do it yourself you know it’s been done properly. Or even at all!

Just to mention that there isn’t really a “full Dsg gearbox service”. The only service item is to change the oil and filter (if it is a wet clutch version). The oil is very expensive and it takes 6 litres I think. About £85 just to buy the oil and filter from TPS for DIY. Add an hour’s labour (although in reality it doesn’t take that long).

Fitting new front brakes discs and pads on this car is no harder than any other car. I think there is a wear sensor on one side, you just have to trace the cable back to just inside the wheel arch to find the plug, disconnect it and reconnect the wire from the new pads. oh yes and do check it actually needs doing!

Fixed oil change interval is one year or 15,000km which is about 9300 miles. So if your mileage figures above are accurate, it does seem to be asking for it a bit soon. When you say "It was last serviced at 37.5k miles" did that include an oil change? If you do high mileage you could switch to variable servicing which is 2 years and I think 30,000 km (18k miles) maximum (reduced according to the type of driving) provided they put in extra long life oil

Oh and the old part number was 06H.906.517 T. New part number was the same but with AE at the end instead of the T. Cost £38.47 including VAT

Popped down to TPS as the part has arrived. In the TPS car park I opened the bonnet, removed the plastic engine cover, used pliers to remove the 2 hose clips on the valve, popped off the electrical connector and pulled the offending N80 valve off its mount. I can blow through the valve, which I shouldn’t be able to do. New valve out of the box - no I can’t blow through it. Pushed onto engine, 2 hoses attached, connector pushed in, plastic lid on, bonnet closed. Into the car plugged in VCDS to car and laptop, cleared fault code. Total time elapsed less than 5 minutes. Maybe I am counting my chickens but the N80 valve was clearly faulty. I suggest that anyone else with these issues can carry out this simple test at home, remove the N80 valve and see if you can blow through it (gently!) when it’s disconnected. You shouldn’t be able to. Quite possibly I didn’t need to replace the evap canister, just this valve.

My March 2016 Superb with 80k miles is still on original battery, no issues. (FLW!).

Do you mean DCC shocks? You could fit Bilstein B4 damptronic, I think this is the right one - but check! https://www.bilstein-shocks.co.uk/products/20-238988?_pos=4&_sid=3558bab59&_ss=r Or get them from TPS. I was in the same place as you needing a new front shock at the MOT, this was 9 months ago and the Bilstein’s weren’t available, I had to spend £500 on an OEM part. But now I think the Bilsteins are available.

The thing in the middle of your picture is called an “LED unit bracket”, something to do with the lighting strips in the door. Not sure what the other thing is. Generally, when several things in a door stop working, (in your case, Kessy and speakers) it is often due to fracturing of the wires between the door and the chassis, near the hinges, due to the flexing every time the door is opened or closed. So I would have a close look inside the plastic tubing that protects the wires at the hinge. And of course repair the wire you already found has broken.

Just picking up on a few points, firstly the recent generations of Haldex (including gen 5 on the Superb III) don’t need to sense wheelspin before engaging the Haldex clutch, they use data from the engine and transmission to predict when the front wheels might slip, and operate the Haldex clutch accordingly. I live in Scotland which is a bit snowy sometimes, but not that bad. So I am very naughty and keep summer tyres on all year round. I did this with the Subaru and never regretted it. I have a caravan which is down a bank in the Highlands. Subaru never a problem, Skoda struggles to get up in snow. I have to drive over a mountain pass, never had a problem in the Subaru, in the Skoda I nearly came to a stop with the traction control working overtime on all 4 wheels! You are of course correct that the penalty for “proper” AWD is poor efficiency. My point is only that the Haldex system, whilst definitely better than nothing, isn’t as good as “proper” AWD when trying to get traction in snow or muddy field.

Auto-hold and its associated button, is not the same thing as hill hold assist. Auto-hold keeps the brakes on regardless, until you move off. Hill Hold Assist only works when there is a gradient such that the car would roll backwards. This is what the manual says about it: When driving on slopes, HHC allows you to move your foot from the brake pedal to the accelerator pedal without the vehicle rolling downhill on its own. The system holds the brake pressure produced by the activation of the brake pedal for approx. 2 seconds after the brake pedal is released. The HHC is active from a 5% slope if the driver's door is closed. HHC is only ever active on slopes when in forward or reverse start off. Maybe the gradient was on the cusp of 5%, sometimes above and sometimes below?

I would say this is the thing. The Haldex is quite poor on snow etc, not a patch on my previous car which was a Subaru with limited slip diffs all round. However it does make a huge difference in everyday town driving in the wet - no annoying wheelspin when making a "spirited" entrance to a roundabout from stationary, etc etc. When I go back to driving our other car which is mini cooper s (FWD), the wheelspin thing is very annoying.

N80 valve ordered from TPS, around £40 which is not too bad. Arriving tomorrow hopefully. One thing I have noticed is that previously, when I went to fill up and remove the petrol cap, there was always a hissing of air. But recently not. So perhaps it is the case that the absence of air hissing noises indicates a problem with the N80 valve and probably it would be better to replace that before replacing the charcoal canister. I'll soon find out if my hissing returns when I replace the valve!

Oh well hey ho, just like @Ronskin, day 2 and check engine light on, evap control. So I located the N80 valve which is conveniently on top of the engine just under the plastic cover. I took it off and can blow through it, which I think is wrong, I think it should be closed when unpowered. So I’ll order a new one on Monday. You can get pattern ones on eBay/Amazon but it doesn’t look expensive so I might as well get the pukka part.

I just fitted Delphi pads and discs, they may not be top of the range but they were far better than the original ones, which were knackered after 20,000 miles.

Right I’ve replaced the canister, quite an easy job apart from half a field’s worth of mud hiding above the wheel arch liner. Still, at least it was bone dry so easy to remove (car hasn’t been out since it started raining). Now I will have to wait and see if the problem is solved. The new part has a slightly different part number from the old one, it has a D suffix ie 3Q0.201.801 D whereas the one I took off didn’t have the D. So presumably the D signifies that it is the modified part that was talked about, although externally they look identical. Bit of getting off one of the “quick disconnect” pipes, (the irony!) and in the end I cut away the surrounding plastic on the old part, which is just there to protect the pipe connection. I think the important tip is to push up hard on the connector before /whilst pressing in the white bit and then pulling down. One connector had white push in bits on both sides one just on one side for some reason.

Which is why my car hasn’t been to a dealer since the warranty expired. Lots of checking in these schedules, not much action. That is because there is not much to do.

I've started having this problem, seems to happen when I have the car at the gliding club and do a few very short journeys around the airfield or to the caravan, in hot weather. According to other sources and ERWIN, it is the charcoal evaporative canister (under wheel arch near filler). There is a modified part available. So it looks like an evap canister change for me. I have just been on the phone to TPS for the part, at £45 including VAT that is not too bad. It is arriving tomorrow and doesn't look difficult to replace - FLW... Hopefully it will not need the G10 valve changing as well, but since I have no fault codes hopefully not.

You are, but with the minimal cost and hassle of changing the oil perhaps the question is: is that the best strategy? The variable regime is "ok" and in part designed to please fleet operators who will be selling the car on after 3 years, so it doesn't matter if the "variable" regime is slighly worse for the car. If you want to keep the car for a long time I suggest that going to fixed makes sense despite your usage pattern. Well that is what I did anyway! I do the occasional town trip but most of my mileage is an 85 mile trip (to the gliding club) or a 425 mile trip (to the canal boat).

It does sound like a data (CANBUS) communication issue. If you can’t communicate with the infotainment unit from the OBD port this would confirm it. You could try a hard reset of the infotainment system. Not sure if /how it can be done with the newer touch screen versions, but if you have the original screen with a mechanical on/off volume knob then holding down the on/off knob for about 10 seconds makes it reset itself.

I have seen the indicated mileage between services reduce, 280 tsi. I think it may be less about “thrashing” and more about lots of short journeys when the oil doesn’t get properly hot. However shortly after getting the car I decided to quit variable in favour fixed. The car used to use a bit of oil on variable with the LL oil but now doesn’t. And it is by far the easiest car I’ve owned to change oil on, and the oil from TPS is very cheap, an oil change costs about £40 including filter and plastic sump plug, and the car is a “keeper”, so it makes sense - to me anyway!

Since the work was done under warranty then surely Skoda must have agreed with the garage, and (unless it was a complete fabrication) wouldn’t have bothered to design a modified type of donut to fix a known problem if that problem didn’t exist. You did not see the car so you are talking from a position of complete ignorance which, in ruder terms, is known as complete and utter BS. As to the greasing, we’ll the car has now done 81,000 miles and never had a garage service, so the donut has never been “greased” and as far as I know, is fine. I would worry that grease would just act as a dirt magnet. So on that specific point I might have to agree with you.

Yes, it is a myth that there is any kind of oil quality sensor. If you set it to “flexible servicing” it presumes you put in long life oil and it gives the maximum interval to next service. Then if you drive it in any sub-optimal way as determined by the oil temperature sensor, it decreases the maximum distance accordingly. So for the OP it is nothing to do with what oil was put in, it is to do with the way the service interval was reset. Of course before you change the setting to “flexible” (which is a little bit complicated) you should check what oil was actually put in. If you reset the service indicator now, then of course it will presume you just changed the oil and go back to offering the max interval to next change. Which is OK in terms of getting rid of the annoying warning, but of course it won’t tell you when the service is actually due. Moral for next time you have it serviced, check the mileage remaining at the outset. If it is less than 10k miles, they’ve put it on fixed interval. Or of course the best option is to change the oil yourself, it is really easy to do.

I don’t.