nicknorman

I exactly think that when the EPB is engaged, the motor is powered until the current reaches a certain value (indicative of the applied pressure). When the EPB is released it winds back a specified amount, just enough to ensure that it is not pressing the pads to the disk, but not much further since it moves quite slowly (the pitch on the worm drive is very fine) and it needs to be able to be re-applied fairly quickly. So far so good. But over time as the pads wear, very gradually the distance it motors to apply the EPB is very, very slightly more than the distance it travels back to release it. The operating positions of both “on” and “off” move closer to the disc. So when it comes time to replace thin pads with fat new ones, just releasing the EPB doesn’t move it back far enough, you need to tell the computer to wind it right back. That is wot I exactly thinks

So just to be clear, you released the EPB in the normal way, you removed the calliper, took out old pads that were worn near the limit, pushed the piston in and installed new pads and got the calliper back on, on a Skoda Superb? I could see this working if the old pads were not much worn because when the EPB unlocks it obviously goes back a bit further than it needs to to release the brakes. But not so far as to make up the difference between well worn pads and new ones. Put it another way, if you don’t need to electrically retract the EPB when changing the pads, why did the people at Škoda (well, VW of course) go to all the trouble to write the software to create the electronic retraction function? It doesn’t seem to make sense. With all due respect, I remain unconvinced!

I can’t see how this could work. The EPB and the piston are kind of separate entities. Yes you can push the piston in but it will be blocked by the EPB which is on a worm drive. I don’t see any way of retracting the EPB manually. I used VCDS - it is a simple process, and when you have finished and put the EPB back to normal more, it does a bit of chuntering whilst it works out the bite point of the brake. I have heard of people getting around using a diagnostic tool by disconnecting the EPB cable and applying 12v directly to the motor, but this seems so much more difficult than just using a diagnostic tool, with lots of scope for causing damage. Once the EPB is retracted, you just push the piston back in.

The spec that I have seen for Superb 2023 says wireless smartlink for iOS only, not for android (for android you have to plug it in).

Sorry can't help except to say that this does work on my 2023 L&K 280 Superb so it is not a design issue. I think it is something that would have to be fixed by a dealer.

Does it beep when it stops? This is a result of the overload detection operating (ie the thing that stops it crushing stuff caught in the tailgate gap). Maybe something is too stiff? Otherwise perhaps it is a wiring issue in the flexible wiring that is inside the corrugated sheathing. Flexing of the wires during opening and closing can eventually case wire to break or chafe against another wire.

If you didn't run the reservoir dry, and you didn't allow all the fluid to drain out of the lines, then I can't think why it would be necessary to use the ABS bleeding procedure. But it does sound as though air is in the system somewhere - assuming the pads are correctly installed.

Did you at any point run out of fluid in the reservoir and thus let air into the system? If so you might need to bleed all the callipers (ie front as well). And run the ABS bleeding procedure via (eg) VCDS. I suppose the other thing to say, although you probably know this already, is that with brand new pads it can feel a bit spongy initially, until the pads bed in a bit.

No not really. It didn’t have Travel Assist. I’m not sure it existed in 2016. It had ACC and Lane Assist. In the car menu there was a tickbox for adaptive lane assist. So Lane Assist, with or without the ACC, could have the Adaptive function or not, they were separate concepts. I always left it ticked so LA was always adaptive. And if LA had a minimum speed, it was very slow, I think it pretty much worked down to zero speed with or without ACC engaged

My washer reservoir/pump is in the RH front wheel arch, accessible after removing the wheel and the wheel arch liner which is quite easy. However yours I suspect may be on the LH side of the car? (it will obviously be on the same side as the filler) in which case according to my reading of the maintenance manual, you have to remove the front bumper. This sounds a bit daunting but it's not too hard. Just some undertray screws, screws in front of the wheels and at the centre at the top. Lots of cables but if you only need to move it forward slightly, you probably don't need to disconnect most of them.

My 2016 280tsi suffered a Haldex pump failure at 20,000 miles. There was nothing showing on the dash, but there was a lot of wheelspin and torque steer. When I looked on VCDS there were error codes for Haldex pump failure. A new pump fixed the problem, So I'm just wondering if your problem could be due to Haldex failure? I certainly don't feel any of the hesitation you mention on mine.

Yes honk and flash works OK for me. Although the honk bit is rather prolonged and a bit antisocial! I can also send a route from the App to the car. Not sure I could be bothered to actually do that, but I did check it worked. I was a bit surprised that the whole profiles thing, which they made a big fuss about, doesn't really seem to have any purpose other than who can track the position of whom.

I tried it today. Great, lane assist now works properly just like on my 2016 model. You get yellow side lines in the lane assist icon to tell you it’s working. Only slight niggle is that you have to have ACC engaged to get adaptive lane assist. If you revert to manual speed control eg by touching the brake, you just get the crappy bouncing-off-the-white-lines lane assist. Not sure why they did that! The 2016 car could have adaptive lane assist without ACC engaged.

Me too.

On VCDS it’s in the ABS module, Basic Settings. Something like “prepare for lining replacement” to wind it fully in, then “completed lining replacement” which winds it out again and detects the new bite point,

Well it looks like you and me both failed to noitice that little button top right on the steering wheel. I think considering the rest of the ACC stuff is on the stalk, we can perhaps be forgiven?! Unfortunately I can't try it until tomorrow but hopefully it will make the Lane Assist actually work properly!

When you are already parked, it will do the “unparking” manoeuvre for you. But you have to press the button first. So either you pressed the button by accident, or there is some malfunction (loose wire etc) that did it for you.

I sent you a PM.

Yes I tend to use Waze too, but the inbuilt satnav is there so IMO it should work properly! If you have the time perhaps you could have a quick look at yours please?

Another slight niggle with my car: Navigation system, if you mark a destination on the map, it gives the address as street name followed by house number (german style!) and the address takes the form of Anystreet 53, Anytown, England, Deutschland. Hmm, somone forgot to tell VW who won the war methinks! Some other countries in Europe are also apparently in Deutschland, others aren't. I guess this is a database issue that will hopefully be resolved in time. On the other hand, if no-one else has this issue it might be some sort of configuration issue on my car. Hence this post...

Yes it is from the same sensor, that is the point. But I am hoping that whilst the panel display inhibits a reading below 50c, the actual data available from VCDS might show down to much lower (ambient) temperatures.

With engines in general, when something like an oil pressure or temperature is "wrong" then one of the first things to check is that the sender is accurate. Unfortunately the oil temperature on the panel doesn't indicate until 50 but perhaps you can look at the oil temperature with VCDS or equivalent to see what the oil temperature is showing, compared to ambient - when the car has been overnight to cool.

I think the predictive ACC + TSR can be useful on motorways with variable speed limits etc. For ordinary driving I find it "interesting" because it wants to accelerate to the speed limit - say 60mph on a country road - when you come out of say a 30 limit (even if you had previously set 50) and whilst it does then slow down for corners etc, it takes them at a fairly sporty speed! It also slows right down for roundabouts but of course it doesn't know if there is anything coming - it just keeps on going! So I would say "great giimmick, but not really usable as auto-driving - except on motorways or when there are cars in front. I suspect that the torque on the steering wheel and how soon it intervenes is something that can be adjusted with VCDS so I'll give that a go at some point. We are also shortly to embark on a long motorway journey so that will be a better test of the lane assist - up til now I've mostly been driving on single carriageway A roads.

No first aid kit. I think this is a requirement in some countries, but not UK.

My 10 day old Superb L&K had one brolly and the ice scraper. But yes, manual in a crappy card case. TBH I wasn’t really expecting a manual since it’s on line and in the car electronically - after a fashion.