silver50

Thanks thats good to know. I'm still considering it/keeping it in mind.

Thx for reply. Road speed and noise subsided as I dipped the clutch but revs dropped too. It was foul weather which didn’t help analysis. It wasn’t a wheel bearing it was front mechanical. As I say when I stopped and held the engine revs I’d a feeling the noise might’ve been from the engine. I know it’s not an easy thing to try and answer but wondered what HTP owners thought

After disastrous ownership of a couple of newer cars since selling my Mk1 Fabia TDI estate (formerly had an MPI estate) because of Edinburgh LEZ I found myself looking at a 52,000 mile 2007 HTP estate today. Iffy car sales outfit but generally the car wasn’t bad. Miles genuine on MoT history. But I felt when driving and not revving (ie maintaining a speed) it sounded a bit like a gearbox hum noise. Usual shortish test drive. However when stopped in neutral and holding the rpm about 2000 I think the little engine (that generally sounded absolutely fine to me) might well have been generating the noise. Any input on this for me at all? Obvs I’m not at all familiar with the HTP. Thanks

Thanks for your input. I did wonder about swapping seats but I think I'd prefer going back to fabia size.

I had two Mk1 fabia estates and a year ago changed to a 2017 Octavia (due to ULEZ in Edinburgh). I don't find the seat comfortable at all in the Octavia (upper back feels hunched forward). I should've bought a Mk3 Fabia as I prefer the smaller sized car for parking and I think a bit more fun to drive. I sat in an SE L Fabia recently. Seat and position seemed good. Might be hard to answer when you're only used to your own cars but I'm wondering if the SE L seats are maybe a bit better than SE/standard. However, having said that, I feel quite likely to want a Monte Carlo, so am wondering if anyone knows how those seats compare. Felt it was worth asking here. TIA

Thanks J.R. Appreciate the guidamce and suggestions. I got a garage to change the master cylinder I'd purchased yesterday so I can't say about the sealing into the master. However, owing to the fact things feel the same as before it was fitted I'd imagine it's probably alright. Did you end up having to change that feed pipe into the slave cylinder? I am thinking it's a must to make sure it's bled well so thanks for your suggestion with the long pipe. Would you know what size of tubing is right for it? Watching some videos I'm thinking back bleeding it might be a plan if I were able to do that. This is starting to beg the question as to being anything wrong with original the slave/master..

Well that’s the master cylinder changed today. Lo and behold it still seems to be playing up with the pedal losing pressure. I’m not losing any fluid and it absolutely feels hydraulic like. Pedal feels a little soft and of course is occasionally going very spongy/not springing back. I got a garage to do the master today. He’ll have bled it I’m sure as did I after the slave. Though it hadn’t felt fantastic after the slave, so I’ll try bleeding again. All ears if anyone has any suggestions. Quite frustrating.

Yes I’ve bled it but only a bit to get any air out. My car is less than 50k miles but the clutch has always felt a bit high as though a bit worn. It seems to feel a little bit different since bled. Slightly better.

Thanks for your reply. Mine had an external slave cylinder. I know what you’re saying. Indeed it could be fine for long enough again but I bought both last week AND have the car up for sale. It’d have been quite good to have peace of mind that it’ll be ok. The pedal did come back last time, pulled up by hand, but it completely lost pressure when I was about to turn right at a busy junction. This was after mild playing up on the same day. I’m wondering exactly what does all need to come off/out to get the pedal out and replace the master. It doesn’t seem like a fun job though (understatement!).

There's one or two YouTube vids on VAG group cars, but nothing very wonderful to help me see exactly what's involved/how it's done. I've been losing pressure at the pedal BTW, but months go by with it ok. I bought a slave and master. I fitted the slave today. Anyone? Anything here.. I can't see a knee airbag on my car for example, is that right? Thanks

Thanks for the replies. I know not if anything unusual has happened, but oddly today when they now have TPS lighting up (supposedly a tyre centre had just reset it) the ABS/traction lights came on while the engine was running. Also the (I think) power steering light came on, ABS/T then went off after a minute, then the other went off. I've suggested a new battery as the car isn't used much and generally only short journeys. They didn't know when it was last changed. So it appears it's gone (from my perspective), there being nothing to worry about but obviously the ABS etc shouldn't have come on so I dunno if there's a chance the green foot brake light was playing up.

I will. It should go out presumably when you’re in gear though, right?

Yes I think it is. It’s an older couple and I didn’t want to trouble them again today before I posted (I said I’d ask here). But I’ll ask them to check tomorrow if it goes off ok in Drive/with a gear selected. I expect it just came back on today because a gear wasn’t selected. When I saw it coming back on like that today (because they specifically asked me about it as though something was wrong/different) I thought something was maybe not right. but maybe it’s ok..

I’m posting to help a neighbour. 2014 non 4x4 TSI Am I right the green shoe warning light should go out and stay out once you’ve touched the brake pedal? they asked me what it is as I think it must’ve started showing when they weren’t aware of it before. it went out on touching the brake but came back on again. Maybe it just needs put into gear though, does it?

Thanks for the info J.R. I assume the concentric cylinder is the one inside the housing? I got the attached from Skoda parts yesterday with the parts man confirming the slave is external. So, is it still quite likely my slave cylinder might be allowing a bit air in? the mechanic seemed to think the whole master cylinder might’ve been plastic and was causing a bit trouble but maybe indeed he’s wrong. It looks like the body of them is metal.