daz1986

It that case it needs live data running on all wheel speed sensors, haldex sensors and anything else relevant to the 4wd and traction systems in a recording mode while the car is driven to see whats going on. The light flashing and cut in power tells me the esp system is reacting to a situation it think its seeing as you're driving along even if actually nothing abnormal is happening. This could be a sensor or wire playing up giving a false signal and the esp is cutting in incorrectly because of it. The lack of power is the esp cutting the throttle to regain traction, so I'm going to assume you've got a dodgy sensor telling it a wheel is slipping/spinning so its cutting the power to stop that, even though it isn't actually happening. As the esp light comes on when the system is activating and doing something, no fault code will be generated as the esp system is just doing its job as far as its concerned

Basic OBD readers do not read anything other than the engine. You need to get the airbag module and probably the steering column module scanned by a proper diagnostic machine like vcds, snap-on, bosch, autel that can access those systems

Which ECU, the main engine ECU or the haldex controller? Firing the parts cannon at it isn't a very good idea, a competent diagnostic tech with vcds or a good scanner giving a better detailed code should be able to narrow down the fault to within 1 or 2 components through live data, signal readings and wiring checks

Airbag and horn are related. Getting the airbag code read will probably point you very close to the problem with the horn, if its not the same exact part causing both

In this case I'd not be scrapping. Certainly sell it. Anything with an mot is always worth £500, even for a shed of a car. If yours is respectable and presentable with average miles etc and if the damage wasn't huge, I'd find someone selling a similar vehicle, and take 1/3rd to 1/2 off the price to allow for for the category status.

Scrapping will get you scrap value, so £120-£150. Its the easiest and quickest option, with no consequences or guilty conscience over your head and car gone within a few hours. Depends on the level of damage, someone may wish to take a punt on it and repair if its just panel and lamps damage. If you do try to sell it, then make it crystal clear in the advert that is a category (insert level) write off and is sold strictly as breaking and not roadworthy and should not be driven away etc. You really do need to cover yourself here. The 3rd option if you've got the time and space, is offer the car up as breaking, sell off all the bits people want, then scrap the rolling remains.

Generally the BT modules are plug and play if the car already had one fitted. The gateway list already has a phone module in its installed list, so no need to mess with that. The new unit you have supports wi-fi by default, so I'd assume its switched on, but if the car can't take advantage of it, I'd turn it off in the long coding to reduce the chance of irrelevant dtc's being generated by it looking to use something it can't. GSM aerial is direct from the BT module to the roof aerial with one connection at the aerial base. So there's 2 possibilities for your dtc, a faulty roof aerial/wiring or internal module fault. Only thing is I'm not sure if the system will "accept" a non genuine aerial without a dtc being generated. Silly suggestion: I assume you've tried clearing the code? as they don't self-clear.

I'm a breakdown guy as my day job, We just use a jack sized piece of 12mm hardboard. Its what they line our floors with when the vans are fitted out. The conversion company chuck a piece in the van and we cut them down to size if too big, but generally they get it spot on now. Does the job fine, Probably could go thinner, 6 or 9mm board, ours is only 12mm as that's what's already being used.

Lemon Shark gets good reviews, I haven't personally purchased from them, but If I was going to, that's who'd I'd go for

I thin you may have your terminology mixed up, RDS is Radio Data Systema nd is used for station name, track playing info etc The feature you're referring to is AF - Auto Frequency You shouldn't need (and I dont think it can do it anyway) VCDS for this. taken from the bolero user manual: Press the button RADIO →  to enter settings menu. Advanced setup - Sets an alternative frequency and the RDS ■ Alternative frequency (AF) - Search for alternative frequencies of the station currently being listened to on/off ■ Radio Data System (RDS) - Switches on/off the RDS function ■ RDS regional - Switches the automatic tracking of related regional stations on/ off ■ Fixed - Maintains the selected regional station continuously. When the signal is lost, another regional station must be set manually. ■ Automatic - Auto-selects the station with the best reception at the moment If you lose reception the region, the unit will automatically set another available region

Holy thread resurrection...10 years later, I'd hope he has sorted it by now

View Advert VW Audi Seat Skoda Sharkfin Roof Aerial **GPS signal reported as being patchy - Seemed ok at testing, but please only buy understanding the blue GPS plug may not work** Roof aerial removed from 2012 Octavia, 6R0 035 501 C - Supports Radio(white), Phone(purple) and GPS(blue) fakra connections. Should fit most VW group vehicles but please check before buying Removed due to the mentioned GPS issue and upgrade to a DAB version Ideal for a cosmetic upgrade from the basic roof aerial on some vehicles Collection from B64 or Postage at cost. Advertiser daz1986 Date 10/05/21 Price £30 Category Parts for Sale Shipping Estimate £5

View Advert Amundsen RNS310 Sat Nav Radio With Code, GPS Aerial & 2020 V11 Maps Skoda Amundsen/RNS310 Sat Nav/radio unit with genuine 2020 V11 maps sd card. Removed from 2012 Octavia due to upgrade Comes with PIN code Also comes with magnetic hide-away universal GPS aerial for cars without GPS as standard. All usual RNS features, front mount aux in, cd player, fm/am radio, maxi-dot compatible on later vehicles. Please note - No bluetooth built-in (does support, but requires vehicle to have factory fitted bluetooth equipment) and not a DAB radio May require new facia to close gaps dependent on model and radio being replaced. Fitting service available if collected, VCDS coding also possible if required. Located in B64, Prefer cash/bank transfer on collection due to item value. May post at extra cost. Advertiser daz1986 Date 10/05/21 Price £130 Category Parts for Sale Shipping Estimate £0

Hmm I think you're being a bit unfair here. the "so called top brand" doing the same as the chinese special would infer its a skoda/vag related interference issue not a camera build quality caused one as these devices work perfectly fine on other vehicle brands although some (mercedes for example) also suffer with dab loss because of interference from dash cams. Its the conversion from 12v to 5v that causes the interferance waves and so the issues. usually a couple of ferrite cores and re-routing solves the issues. The other solution which nearly always works, but is un-tidier, is to use the 12v to usb socket converter that most cameras come with, this also seems to stop the issue.

Just to follow this up Amundsen+/RNS315 3T0 035 192 N fitted into FL Octavia VRs with factory phone prep Turn off the internal bluetooth on the radio unit and use the cars factory bluetooth = Phone linked and displaying correctly and bluetooth track info is displayed on radio and maxi-dot and track skipping works. No other coding needed other than going into 37- Navigation and using the long coding helper to disable the internal bluetooth of the radio unit.

The screw in aerial to my knowledge doesn't have an amplifier of its own, its all done in the headunit. So if the DAB is poor, its either the aerial base unit or a headunit amp issue(if not simply a signal strength in a particular area issue) The FM aerial has a booster fitted at the end of its cabling, something along the lines of 5L6 035 577 A as an example is what your looking for which could fail. Depending on which headunit you've got, most have a fm signal screen thats accessible to show the signal strength, I'm not sure on the availabilt of a dab version

I replaced a fair few aerials in my time at skoda, and recentyl upgraded my octavia aerial with failed gps to the same but now with dab version. Its a relatively simple job, unplug the connections and a big nut but a tricky one without completely dropping the back half of the roof lining. (pillar trims and handles and door seals off etc) By shortcutting and just levering the back edge of the roof lining down it can be done, but you have to be very careful you don't crease the roof lining. Cost at the dealers would depend if they charge the book time (roof lining drop) or the time taken (lower it just enough to do the job while being careful)

I spent most of last night researching, getting lost in a world of 9w7 bluetooth and vcds coding suggestions I think I'll fit it, turn the internal bluetooth off, see what happens, then try disabling factory bluetooth via gateway coding. IF the built in works better, I can always get a mic for the quadlock which would seem easier and quicker than re-routing or running wires from the bluetooth module

Hi, I'm hoping to replace the factory fit amundsen nav unit in my 2011 FL Octavia Vrs with the later amundsen+ so I get DAB, (I've already got the DAB roof aerial and the wire ran in prep as the nav on my original aerial failed and so I took the opportunity to fit the DAB version) and hopefully improved bluetooth my question is about the bluetooth and maxi-dot. My car has bluetooth and this works through the maxi-dot and bluetooth audio streaming simply says "bluetooth audio" and I cant skip tracks etc with the steering or radio controls, has to be done on the phone/device. I think this is because the factory bluetooth isnt a2dp. I know the amundsen+ came with and without bluetooth built in, the unit I can get IS fitted with internal bluetooth (mac address present) and is part number 3T0 035 192 N Does anyone know if I plug this unit in, if this will over-rule the original bluetooth connection and I should then connect via the amundsen+, and the details and phone menu will still show on maxi-dot or if the original factory bluetooth will block it? And also if the bluetooth is a2dp and so track name and skipping is available? Bonus points if anyone also knows if the original bluetooth means I've got the mic already in the quadlock connection/overhead console and so don't need to get one of those. Thanks

They will, but you can see the difference against a genuine rivet Click

Its generally quickest and easiest to go to the dealer/TPS for them, they're not expensive and you know they're the correct ones. Part number N 91078801 They're 6.4x10mm blind rivets, but the genuine skoda ones are slightly different to the off-the-shelf diy store versions and fit better

Hex-V2 Near Dudley/Halesowen. Also have constantly up to date Bosch Esi[tronic] diagnostics for other vehicles

My current car doesn't have a belt, but on any car I work on or my own, its OEM or OEM level brand belts and tensioners only (Conti-tech/INA/Gates etc)

Just to add, if you're using WIndows 10, The included installer will not work and you need to get an updated version of virtualbox from here https://download.virtualbox.org/virtualbox/6.1.18/VirtualBox-6.1.18-142142-Win.exe

The mega link above still works, I've just downloaded it Go to https://mega.nz/#!h1dkiaQZ The bit in red is the decryption key you enter on the page