daz1986

The modules are minefield, the basic starting point is if you have maxi-dot or not?

What radio do you have? Generally you need a bluetooth module, wiring harness and microphone

Tensioner risk is facelift cars with the CCZA 2.0TSI engine (pre-face generally have the earlier TFSI cambelt driven engine, although there are a few late pre-face with the newer TSI) All years of the CCZA engine mk2 are liable for it, but generally speaking 59/10/60 plates seem to be most common for failing, that's not to say a 11 plate onwards isn't a worry. If theres no proof of it being done, prices range from 600-900 depending on where you go, so budget and negotiate accordingly, and only ver use genuine parts. Road noise - depends on the tyres a lot, Mine has goodyear eagle's and its noisy enough on some road surfaces, generally not terrible, but its not as quiet as a more modern car Comfort - never had any issues, sticking cheap lowering springs/coilovers on will change that of course DSG - mine is dsg and would never go manual having had a DSG. Service history of the DSG is important, oil and filter of it needs changing every 40k so check its been done or budget accordingly As for the ford, erm, in the motor trade the powershift isn't known as the "power****" for nothing.....

That's a shame. Always worth trying the cheapest option first though

If its a metal buzzing noise when coming down the revs at around 2000rpm then its more than likely its actually a loose wastegate arm rod and it can be solved with the wastegate clip. No need for expensive turbo repairs just yet

I got mine from coversdale car parts, Yes it fits all tsi, I also have a 2011 ccza vrs https://www.coverdalecarparts.co.uk/product-page/1-8tsi-2-0tsi-ea888-genuine-pcv-ccza-cdaa-cdab

Bit late replying but need more info on what a "jiggle" noise is? If its a metallic rattling then its probably the turbo wastegate, which can either be the actuating arm, which theres a clip available for. Or its the actual wastegate flap inside the turbo, much worse news

The CCZA is an EA888 engine the earlier engine is EA113 , pcv delete kits are expensive for the EA888, If you suspect a PCV related fault, Replacing the PCV for the newest AJ part number is the best bet. I replaced mine and its improved the drive, mine was the factory original from 2011. However, I'd always advise against throwing parts at something hoping it will cure it. If you can, check for stored fault codes, if the engine light comes on when the issue happens, hopefully it has stored the code. If you don't have access to a reader or someone who does, You may be better off spending the money on a proper diagnosis by a vw group specialist or dealer

Just researched into it, Appear son MIB units, which yours is, you have to use diag equipment or carista to enable a "green engineering menu" which is hidden by default and this contains de-dubbing info inc signal strength amongst many other tthings. From what I've seen, Its not something to be messing with as you can easily brick the radio

Usually you press and hold the "setup" button on most vag radio's. That part number is missing a few numbers, so can't tell which radio you have

He may not reply, it was posted 7 years ago

I had an amundsen/rns310 in my 2011, that only showed "bluetooth audio" and no track skipping etc. upgrading to an RNS315 (mainly for DAB) made the track info visible and steering wheel track skip work. I have a 3c8 (premium) bluetooth module fitted, which I didn't mess with at all, so the bluetooth module was more than capable of sending the info and receiving commands, just that the older rns310 wasn't capable of it. but the only thing that throws me is you say it worked in the original car? It may also be a BAP thing, which pre-FL doesn't have, but that bluetooth module is a BAP only module

Go into the info on the nav screen and it'll show how may satellites it can "see" In an open area, less than 8 or 9 and you have a bad signal, if its 0 and you're out in the open, a bad roof aerial is most likely and quite common

Thats exactly where the DAB aerial wire runs. It is a known issue with dash cams and poor signal. The main solutions are to run the dash cam wiring offside, and to fit ferrite cores on the dash cam power wire if hard wired to take power directly from the car at fuse box/12v As its the conversion from 12v to whatever the camera needs that causes the interference. If the camera is powered from a standard 12v outlet, the "cigar plug" end of the dash cam power wire does the voltage conversion and no signal issues generally occur

A quick look for a 2012 mk2 shows me that TSC/ESP button Pin 1 - Unused Pin 2 - Unused Pin 3 - Grey w/ Blue trace - Illumination +ve Pin 4 - Black w/ Grey trace - +ve from fuse SC2 5a (fuse number 2 in the side of dash fuse box) Pin 5 - Black - Direct to ABS Unit - Pin 39 in the 47 pin connector Pin 6 - Brown - Earth TPMS Button Pin 1 - Unused Pin 2 - Unused Pin 3 - Grey W/ Blue trace - Illumination +ve Pin 4 - Black w/ Grey trace - +ve from fuse SC2 5a (fuse number 2 in the side of dash fuse box) Pin 5 - Purple w/ grey trace - to ABS unit pin 35 in the 47 pin connector Pin 6 - Brown - Earth

Can't understand why people keep using cowboy halfords, they're bloody useless and incompetent. Wouldn't trust them to change my toilet roll. Use a proper car audio and visual specialist or chuck a proper mechanic/technician some beer money. It takes me under an hour, you pay half the price of halfords and most importantly, it's done correctly.

Just for anyone reading this, using a block connector on an airbag wire is at best not ideal, arguably dangerous. Airbag systems work on resistance values for each component, By adding a connector into the mix, the resistance on that wire will have increased slightly. You risk anything from a simple fault code of "high resistance" to the sensor, the sensor not reporting correctly which could cause no, or worse unwanted deployment of the airbags. Official repair method would be a new connector and pins and wire as Wino has posted. Joined to the original wire by a VAG group yellow butt connector (000 979 940 if memory serves me right) and some heat shrink covering

View Advert RNS315/Amundsen+ V12 Maps SD card Brand new V12 maps SD card for VW group RNS315/Amundsen+ Navigation units. Never used and not locked to a unit. Collection or postage available Advertiser daz1986 Date 25/05/21 Price £20 Category Parts for Sale Shipping Estimate £3

I'm going off suspected knowledge here, no hard evidence, so please research or be prepared to trial and error some adapters if nobody is able to further verify my thoughts The one on the left with the copper pin inside looks like a female RAKU 2 The centre looks to be FME female The one on the right pretty much looks like a male RAKU 2 With your adapters, to make it easy go for Z-type fakra, which are a turquoise colour, as the other colours all have their pegs in a different place around the body of the connector to only accept its same coloured male/female counterpart. However z-type is universal and accepts all colour fakras to the opposite type

I used a genuine 6R0 035 501 D, which is the dab, GPS, phone and radio version. I got it from a breaker, its the same unit across all vag group so doesn't matter what car it comes off if the part number is right. I'm selling my old 6R0 035 501 C which is phone, GPS(reported dodgy signal) and radio version if anyone reading this fancies an upgrade.

I've just fitted a genuine dab sharkfin and the wire to my occy. Ity was to a hatch, but estate are fairly similar. Im assuming your 2010 is a facelift. Not too hard, but I am a mechanic/technician of 18 years inc time at vw/skoda dealers so without trying to come across in the wrong way, I have an idea of what I was doing. The trim panels, for the most part, just pull off, and are held in by plastic white pegs or metal clips expect to break or bend a few clips. Some you can get away with not having, others are needed. I found the "c" post trim the most awkward(maybe the "d" post in an estate), and ideally it needs the left hand side of the boot stripping out completely to remove correctly but I managed to feed the wire by only unclipping and dis-mounting slightly. The "B" post trims, these you need to pull at the sides (next to the door seals) of the bottom end of the upper trim if that makes sense, this unhook it and will make it stick out at the sides then it unclips via 2 white pegs at the very top near the roof. This one can also be awkward to re-fit having to line up the seat belt slider. You can take power from the radio loom, but it is permanent 12v, This may not be suitable, in which case you may have to use an add a circuit in the fuse box off an ignition live and run that across the back of the dash to the radio area, then power your aerial from there. The pinout can easily be found by searching "vw/skoda quadlock pinout" on your favorite search engine image search

The glow plugs are a red herring. Again you've got an abs fault guiding you to a a fault in another module, this time guiding you back to the engine control module. As we can pretty much rule out glow plugs. That leaves your other code in engine, the G28 Which is the crankshaft position sensor. This playing up will cause cutting out and issues as its the main sensor for the engine module to know what position the engine is at at all times.

Resurrect the thead to add, the wheel centre caps have changed part number and are now 5E0 601 151 FOD @ £11.07 + vat each retail price

What part of THERE WILL NOT BE A FAULT CODE is difficult to understand? It needs the sensor readings monitored while its being driven. I give up...

As I posted, It wont show a fault because the system is cutting in as it thinks it should and is designed to, but in this case its because its being fed false data, but the esp brain doesn't know its false like we do, its just seeing a signal telling it a wheel is spinning so its flashing the light to tell you esp is cutting in and doing its job and cutting the power to regain the traction it thinks its lost. A recording of wheel speed sensors while driving will probably show one or more wheels doing a ridiculous speed at some points compared to the others