daz1986

The modules are minefield, the basic starting point is if you have maxi-dot or not?

What radio do you have? Generally you need a bluetooth module, wiring harness and microphone

Tensioner risk is facelift cars with the CCZA 2.0TSI engine (pre-face generally have the earlier TFSI cambelt driven engine, although there are a few late pre-face with the newer TSI) All years of the CCZA engine mk2 are liable for it, but generally speaking 59/10/60 plates seem to be most common for failing, that's not to say a 11 plate onwards isn't a worry. If theres no proof of it being done, prices range from 600-900 depending on where you go, so budget and negotiate accordingly, and only ver use genuine parts. Road noise - depends on the tyres a lot, Mine has goodyear eagle's and its noisy enough on some road surfaces, generally not terrible, but its not as quiet as a more modern car Comfort - never had any issues, sticking cheap lowering springs/coilovers on will change that of course DSG - mine is dsg and would never go manual having had a DSG. Service history of the DSG is important, oil and filter of it needs changing every 40k so check its been done or budget accordingly As for the ford, erm, in the motor trade the powershift isn't known as the "power****" for nothing.....

That's a shame. Always worth trying the cheapest option first though

If its a metal buzzing noise when coming down the revs at around 2000rpm then its more than likely its actually a loose wastegate arm rod and it can be solved with the wastegate clip. No need for expensive turbo repairs just yet

I got mine from coversdale car parts, Yes it fits all tsi, I also have a 2011 ccza vrs https://www.coverdalecarparts.co.uk/product-page/1-8tsi-2-0tsi-ea888-genuine-pcv-ccza-cdaa-cdab

Bit late replying but need more info on what a "jiggle" noise is? If its a metallic rattling then its probably the turbo wastegate, which can either be the actuating arm, which theres a clip available for. Or its the actual wastegate flap inside the turbo, much worse news

The CCZA is an EA888 engine the earlier engine is EA113 , pcv delete kits are expensive for the EA888, If you suspect a PCV related fault, Replacing the PCV for the newest AJ part number is the best bet. I replaced mine and its improved the drive, mine was the factory original from 2011. However, I'd always advise against throwing parts at something hoping it will cure it. If you can, check for stored fault codes, if the engine light comes on when the issue happens, hopefully it has stored the code. If you don't have access to a reader or someone who does, You may be better off spending the money on a proper diagnosis by a vw group specialist or dealer

Just researched into it, Appear son MIB units, which yours is, you have to use diag equipment or carista to enable a "green engineering menu" which is hidden by default and this contains de-dubbing info inc signal strength amongst many other tthings. From what I've seen, Its not something to be messing with as you can easily brick the radio

Usually you press and hold the "setup" button on most vag radio's. That part number is missing a few numbers, so can't tell which radio you have

He may not reply, it was posted 7 years ago

I had an amundsen/rns310 in my 2011, that only showed "bluetooth audio" and no track skipping etc. upgrading to an RNS315 (mainly for DAB) made the track info visible and steering wheel track skip work. I have a 3c8 (premium) bluetooth module fitted, which I didn't mess with at all, so the bluetooth module was more than capable of sending the info and receiving commands, just that the older rns310 wasn't capable of it. but the only thing that throws me is you say it worked in the original car? It may also be a BAP thing, which pre-FL doesn't have, but that bluetooth module is a BAP only module

Go into the info on the nav screen and it'll show how may satellites it can "see" In an open area, less than 8 or 9 and you have a bad signal, if its 0 and you're out in the open, a bad roof aerial is most likely and quite common

Thats exactly where the DAB aerial wire runs. It is a known issue with dash cams and poor signal. The main solutions are to run the dash cam wiring offside, and to fit ferrite cores on the dash cam power wire if hard wired to take power directly from the car at fuse box/12v As its the conversion from 12v to whatever the camera needs that causes the interference. If the camera is powered from a standard 12v outlet, the "cigar plug" end of the dash cam power wire does the voltage conversion and no signal issues generally occur

A quick look for a 2012 mk2 shows me that TSC/ESP button Pin 1 - Unused Pin 2 - Unused Pin 3 - Grey w/ Blue trace - Illumination +ve Pin 4 - Black w/ Grey trace - +ve from fuse SC2 5a (fuse number 2 in the side of dash fuse box) Pin 5 - Black - Direct to ABS Unit - Pin 39 in the 47 pin connector Pin 6 - Brown - Earth TPMS Button Pin 1 - Unused Pin 2 - Unused Pin 3 - Grey W/ Blue trace - Illumination +ve Pin 4 - Black w/ Grey trace - +ve from fuse SC2 5a (fuse number 2 in the side of dash fuse box) Pin 5 - Purple w/ grey trace - to ABS unit pin 35 in the 47 pin connector Pin 6 - Brown - Earth