krigl

Check the wiring where the boot opens first, remove the bendy rubber grommet to check cables. Mine were broken, I just fixed them about a month ago...

This is theory When you touch the pipes and follow the hot ones of each one then you understand what actually is happening I know this information from SSPs but practice has proven otherwise The charge cooler draws directly from expansion reservoir and return to it and is the non problematic part and is quickly bleed of air bubbles. The engine and cabin heater takes some cycles and driving to fully bleed out the bubbles. This is what I have learned during my testing after water pump replacement.

Use the G13... it is labeled on coolant expansion reservoir... I have disconnected the hoses on both sides of radiator on bottom and let it drain out as much as it did, and when you take out the water pump (I have changed it, do not unscrew it if you will not change it!!! You can take off the big hoses on the water pump and let it drain there, just cover the gearbox vent hole on top with some duct tape not to spill the clutch with the cooling liquid) quite a lot had drained from there also (unfortunately to the flor ), then reassemble the hoses. Pull off the upper big hose of the radiator and pore in about 3l of G13 down the tube to the water pump, so engine and pump has some liquid to turn over. What is left, if any, put then in the expansion reservoir. Now use distilled water to fill the rest of the expansion reservoir. Turn on the engine and wait for it to heat up, fill up the expansion reservoir with distilled water if it is sucked in the system. Do not fill to top, but always to max marker... You will wait quite a long time for engine to heat up and open all the valves. Also turn the heating on in cabin so water is circulated also there and verify that it is blowing hot in there. It is also handy to have a OBD reader of any kind to verify coolant temperature. The coolant fan turns on at about 100 degrees Celsius. Please also turn of AC, since it uses same cooling fan Maybe also pump wit your hands on the big coolant lines to help move the trapped bubbles in the system. I have monitored the coolant level for first 50 km I have made and refill the coolant reservoir if it was missing fluid.

Hi all... My Fabia 2016 1.2TSI 110 DSG also had a loose bolt to left side of fuel rail. I have inspected it during cambelt and water pump change. I have just replaced the bolts and locktite them also, just to be sure. It was around 160kkm on the milage of the car. Good thing I have checked. By the way, just take the cambelt and water pump to be changed at the dealer, because it is a right pain in the ass to do. It took me 8h to do both on jacks (I have no lift) and the amount of disassembly of the engine is quite high compared to official guides (in the guides the engine is usually out of the car and can be accessed easier). No need to use official tools, a white marker does the job quite good, just remember to mark the sprockets to block of engine and not only the belt, because the belt does not align after couple of turns when checking. After this milage, the belt and pulleys were quite in good condition, but the water pump was a bit loose (free turning compared to new). I have also noticed some carbon buildup on the valves and will be likely take it to the dealer for cleaning later this year, since this is something, I cannot do on my own unfortunately.

That is called paranoia leave the noise alone, you will live a happier life if you do 😁

I have regeneration disabled and the noise is the same if it is enabled.

It bothered me for first 40kkm, but then it did not get any worse, so now i just ignore it.

Mine does this as well, from 0km to 130kkm, it is still the same. Do not get bothered with this whine.

The Naturaly Aspirated 1.0 engine just has no real gain from any Tuning boxes or tunings. You bought the wrong engine, with a turbo one you could do miracles, with NA you do not have this freedom. Use higher rev's to get power, it is a 12 valve 3cyl engine, it breathes good in higher revolutions, where its peak power is also. Do not worry, NA engines love higher revs.

It is still DQ200. It is not a problem of bad experience, just stock SW of DQ200 is bad due to emission and other nature related stuff... The unit is quite good in my opinion, you just need to go to get a TVS tuning done on it Stage 2+ so it will perform as it should. I did 2x clutch change and 1x mechatronics in warranty and the end result was the same as new car, totally pointless effort by the skoda service center, I lost a few weeks of time I will never get back dealing with this issue with them. So I pulled the trigger and went for tuning. I have never looked back. The problem is that people do not trust tuning and are afraid of it. The DSG tuning does not increase power of car, just the behaviour of the gearbox in a better way, the way it should be from factory. You can buy the DQ200, I do recommend it, BUT do the tuning! My car has around 120kkm now and all is OK. Well worth the 400 EUR for tuning.

From my point of view, I am still afraid, that the combination of engine and gearbox is problematic. In my opinion the engine cylinder deactivation is way to intrusive (and cannot be disabled) and the response from DSG along with the engine is suited to slow driving person, which I am not (dynamic driving). Are there still problems with DSG 7 dry coupling still active, I cannot comment since I already have 4 years old car which is tuned both engine and DSG and now it is drivable. I have been struggling with official solutions of VW for 2 years and have given up back then. Test drive the car for a day if possible from cold car and you will see how it will go. If it is a new car and the problems if they still exist, will show after 20kkm, and not before. If possible, go for the 6 speed wet coupling combination with a diesel, this will likely be my next choice, or a tuned 7speed dry one, but in any case I am hooked on automatics, It is just better for every day use. This is my opinion, take it as you wish. I am still a fan of VW group compared to other makes, so I will likely stay with their cars in future. Have a nice day.

Try putting some copper grease on the hinge. It dampens the rattle and doesnt melt away that fast.

Get a tune instead of the intake, more bang for the buck and a K&N insert in original enclosure. Airflow is only restricted by paper filter insert (original). You go from 90->130ish bhp for a little more money and by my opinion worth it .

Just remove the plastic hose that goes from front grill to the airbox, where the air filter is located and go for a drive. Tell us if the noise was still there or not. I have a strange suspicion that this will cure the issue...

The engine is constantly checking the fuel quality by intentionally advancing ignition timing and producing either mild knock or misfires on all cylinders, to be as efficient as possible. Once it reaches this point it backs off a bit and then tries again after some time. This is why you get counters increased, but no codes. Do not worry about it. Your numbers seem good to me, I have similar ratio between cylinders, but my is DSG, so the ride is smooth.

Depends how much time you have. Let it drain for half an hour when cold and that is it. Or 10 mi when hot. In any way gravity will do its job.

Autodoc...

Replace them and test it out. I think it should solve your issue. I do them every other service, but my car is tuned so I take extra precausions.

Have spark plugs been changed?

Check the battery voltage for issues if car is not driven that mutch.

Pull the extra connector on the negative terminal off and retry your measurement.

Turb has oil and water coolig. Once you turn of the car, the electric water pump keeps cooling the turbo for about a minute afterwards just to prevent these issues. Read the 1.2 or 1.0 ssp manual from wv, it is stated in there.

Noting special on the ARB bushes, just keep in mind to put grease in and you will have a creek free subframe. This was the main point of doing this. The original lower aarm bushes were basically crap to start with and after 60kkm left my tires in bad shape. The poly ones are superb, sharper feeling, very nice. No extra comfort issues.

Similar tech in the 1.0 tsi, i think it should last the same.

1.2tsi 110 with stage 1 revo tune, 100kkm in 3 years time. Services always in 15kkm intervals 5w-40 shell. Will have to do brakes in next 10kkm all round, changed the lower aarm bushes to poly, same as the antirollbar bushes. Other than this it is original. Still pulls like a champ, with 5.3 l/100km overall yearly average consumption.