Mecksopp

Thanks, I will check the wirings.

Thanks for your input. But shouldn't the faultcode 01411 come back in that case?

Hi, Something is wrong with my heater, Superb -2013. 3-4 years ago I changed the circulation pump, after that it has run without any problem until now. First it went into block state. The result of reading faultcodes (see picture, felkod.jpg). I cleared all faultcodes and unblocked the heater. Now when I run the heater it starts, it runs for 20min (as expected according to preset value). But there is no heat in the car. The fan inside the car is running. NO fault codes are found now, everything seems ok. I can read a lot of live data from the heater but difficult to say if some value are wrong (se example of position 13, livedata1_13.jpg and livedata2_13.jpg). Can it be a problem with the glow plug? Strange that there is no fault code now. Anybody have any idea how to make the fault finding? Any idea is welcome. BR

Hi, Anyone know some place where you can download a service manual for Skoda super mk2 for free? BR

Hi, I have a false washer fluid warning on the dashboard. I guess the sensor is faulty. Can it be repared? Anyoone dealed with this issue? BR

I had a really struggle to dismount the tube, used a lot of heat for a long time but it would not come off. In the end I had to crack it for 10 cm. My idea now is when I reassembly I turn the tube upside down and put a heat shrink tube around it. For how long did you heat the tube? I guess it was more time than what was showed in the video? When I opened the first one, the small springs was out of order so I have made new ones 👍

Lutz, I saw your answer on YouTube so I will look at both.

Lutz you are my hero, that video was exactly what I was looking for. I will give it a try, my son also play electrical guitar, that will help 😀 Is there any good way to find out if left or right strut is bad? BR

Hi! The boot on my Superb -13 wont open or close anymore. Some problem with the electrical motor. At first it failed once a week but now it always fail. I think it is the electrical motor that is failing. There are two of them right and left. They are very expensive to buy. Has anyone succeeded to repair one of those? Or is it just to bring up around 7-8000SEK and change both? BR

Today I replaced the cirkulation pump, it was no problem. Disconnected the battery (for 2h) to get rid of the fault codes. But after connecting the battery again still the same problem. Does anybody know if I need a computer to unlock the heater? Or should it be enough to disconnect the battery? Really appreciate all help. BR Fredrik

Hi! Found a really good link with workshop manuals: https://cardiagn.com/2015-2018-skoda-superb-iii-3v-worshop-manual-owners-manual-wiring/ Unfortunately they only had Suberb III 2015-2018. Anyone know where I can find similar manual for Superb II? BR

Thx for the information! I read out the fault code today, see picture below. It says in Swedish that the circulation pump is overheated, so most probably I need to change that one. Most likely it will start if I disconnect/connect battery, but will probably fail after a while. Planning to change the circulation pump myself. Have anybody any advise to give? Is it difficult? BR

Thanks for the suggestions, I will try to find a fault code reader.

Hi, I have problem with my heater. When trying to start it with the remote it flashes fast, indicating that something is wrong. On the dashboard it says “Problem: auxiliary heating”. The car is a Skoda Superb 4x4 2.0 tdi. Anyone suggestions? What are the most common fault with these heaters? BR

Haha, next time I pay you a vacation trip for you in Sweden 😜 Little bit annoyed because I suspected the cable close to the sensor but did not have time to check it because of vacation plans with the family...

Hi! I got some answers. They worked according to TPI 2027092/3. (sorry for swedish) * TAGIT FELMINNE FELKOD FINNS * KOLLAT TPI HITTADE ETT SOM STÄMMER PÅ KUNDENS BESKRIVNING * FÖLJT TPI KONTROLPUNKTER * PROVAT ATT BYTA G31 BLEV INGE BÄTTRE * GJORT GUIDAD FELSÖKNING FEL * KOLLAT TURBON OK * MÄTT TRYCKET I LADDRÖRET DET STÄMMER * MÄTT STRÖMMEN TILL G31 FRÅN MOTORSTYRDORNET DEN STÄMMER * MÄTT JORDEN FRÅN MOTORSTYRDORNET DEN STÄMMER * MÄTT SIGNALKABEL FRÅN MOTORSTYRDORNET FEL MOTSTÅND I KABELN * LETAT FELET PÅ SIGNALKABELN HITTADE ETT BROTT PÅ DEN I KABELSTAMMEN * LAGADE KABELBROTTET PROVKÖRDE BILEN DEN FUNGERADE SOM DEN SKULLE * TAGIT FELMINNE FINNS INGET KVAR The replaced 30 cm of the cable close to the map sensor.

6300SEK is about 545GBP. No refund from the first garage. Thanks for the probe tips. Do you have any opinion about which fault code reader system I should buy?

Hi again! Today I picked up the car, now everything is working. The problem was the wire for: Pin 4 variable signal back to engine ecu for G31 The first repair garage could not fix the problem, they where first sure that it is was the air pressure sensor and changed that one. I had to pay approx 2300SEK to them for the sensor and work, then they tranfered the car to an authorized Skoda repair garage, they fixed the wire for approx 4500SEK. Total cost for me approx 6300SEK... I have asked for where the wire was broken (if it was near the sensor or closer to the ECU), have not got any answer on that yet. According to the work spec it seems that they have repaired the wire, i.e not replaced the complete wire. I wish I would have had the time to do the fault finding myself, no problem for me to do some soldering of a wire. Had a lot of problem with the wiring to driver door before which I fixed myself. Thinking of buying a fault code reader, what to you suggest? Anyway, thank you for your help. BR

Thanks for all info. I get back with info how it goes. BR

Thank you for the information! 😀 We had a planned vacation trip so I am now off with the family in our Skoda Rapid. Not much space left compared to the Superb 😀 Before I left I drove the Superb to a repair garage, besides the sensor wiring he suspected the turbo actuator, could that be the case? We will see what findings he have done when we get home. I repaired the wirings to driver door last year so I would not be surprised if it is a wiring problem. Seems that the PVC is not of the best quality. If there is a wiring problem it should must likely be near the sensor or? (in all other places the wiring seems to sit tight)

Hi, I have a problem with my Superb tdi 2.0 140hp 4x4 alldrive, 2013 (current 120000km). Flashing coil lamp during drive, car switched to limp mode. After ignition on/off the car can work ok for a longer or shorter period. Engine lamp will be turned on after a while. Reading error codes gives intermittent fault P0238. The local store did not have sensor home but I found a used one (the dealer says it is tested and ok...). Installed the new one but same problem. So now I am wondering if I have two faulty sensor or a cable problem to the sensor or any other serious problem. To verify the sensor and cable I need the specification or at least the pin layout on the sensor, I can not find either when searching on the web. Would be great if someone have this information or any other idea? The original sensor part number is: 0 281 002 977 03G 906 051E BR

I just confirmed that the problem moved to the other key. This forum is GREAT!! Thanks. Replaced the battery now to a new 3.4V

Thanks for the battery idea. One of our key have this random KESSY opening issue. That one have 2.98V The other have 3.06V Changed battery now to see if the problem moves to the other key. I also noticed that the led on the key flashes under longer time when it works.

Having random problem with unlocking with KESSY. The car is 3 year, do you think I can have a new KESSY module on warranty?

Yesterday I opened the tow bar (se picture below). I managed to get the failing button to work, case closed