brian62c

It's been a while coming but finally, here's an update. A couple of days after posting this, I arrived at work, put the car into reverse and parked nicely - then realised there had been no horrible noise and there were no longer any even horribler warning lights on. To say I was baffled is an understatement but I'm happy report that, for the time being at least, all is well in that department. Think I got out of jail, at least for now 🙃

Thanks guys. Looks like it's time for a plug-in baby! 😉

Sorry ords, it did. Forgot that one. Would that bring about all the other issues then?

Evening all, Took my September 2013 1.6tdi to my trusted regular garage for a puncture repair the other day. All good, half a screw removed and hole plugged. Cheap as chips. The next day, the tyre pressure warning binged, so I stopped to check the culprit wasn't looking deflated and went on my merry way home, where, next morning, I topped it up and reset the system. During my commute, the TPMS, ESC and traction control all threw up errors and warning lights, one after the other. No effect whatsoever on the behaviour of the car, so I decided to monitor the situation. On arrival at work, when I selected reverse to park, there was a long high-pitched beeeeep, which stopped when I deselected reverse and came off the clutch. Sounded like an extended version of the rear parking sensor audible warning. Selected reverse again and no noise - but no rear parking sensors either and no diagram on the screen. Been like it ever since. Has this, or anything similar, happened to anyone else? It seems a weird load of things to go wrong all at the same time. Is the puncture repair a coincidence or could it have anything to do with it? I'm thinking I'll probably have to get a diagnostic done and take it from there - but any hive wisdom gratefully received. By the way the car still isn't driving any different to normal. It's done 145k and goes sweet as a nut. Cheers all.

I did wonder about that kind of thing, thanks BP 🙂

Well, all I can say is apologies for wasting everyone's time - and thanks for the suggestions and moral support. It's clearly good to talk 😊🤪

36 is possibly second from left bottom row - but it's a little 10a fuse.

Breaking news: It's bloody working now!!! Tried both cameras again in the Citigo. Spare worked, original didn't so swapped the little clear cylindrical fuse in the end of the plug-in bit with a spare cable I had - and that worked as well! It does need the ignition switched on (just so the dash lights up) - which my Octy doesn't - but I definitely tried that before and it wouldn't play ball. Baffled, to say the least 🤔

Not like that apparently 😏 46 is bottom row sixth from right.

Okay, fuse 36 is a smaller size and only 10a so I'm guessing not right for the 12v socket. It's also completely intact.

For sure they don't seem like the most robust of items but I have tried them back and forth several times and with the sockets swapped from car to car. No foreign bodies inside either socket. I'm on it .....

Swapped fuse 46 and it hasn't blown again - but the dash cam still isn't working. Don't know about voltage - haven't got a meter. Tried with and without the ignition on - no joy. Also tried a different dash cam - nothing doing.

It's 2016 (16 plate). The post I found about which fuse for the 12v socket said 46. Don't tell me I should be looking at 36! 😳

Hello all, Daughter's Citigo 12v socket popped its fuse so her dash cam is out of action, much to her distress. I've replaced the 20 amp fuse 46 - which was clearly broken - but no joy. It's not the dash cam itself as I've tested that in my Octavia and it works. It's not the socket either, as I've swapped that into my car and it works. Any suggestions please? I'm no great technical/electrical wizard btw 🙄 TIA

Nice one skomaz 😀 A place I used to take my vehicles to lost my custom when, on mot day, they "noticed" a large puncture in one of the tyres - big enough to instantly deflate the tyre. I'd driven 40+ miles to get there ( it was the other side of my normal commute) with no sign of any tyre trouble. Must have happened just as I parked at the garage. What a coincidence! Looked to me suspiciously like a hard stab with a sharp implement 🤔🙄

Thanks both. It wasn't just me then. Just wanted to check I wasn't missing something 😏 Nothing at all against a decent garage charging appropriately for their skills, experience, knowledge and overheads - but this strikes me as outrageous. Unfortunately she's a single woman with quite a posh voice who knows virtually nothing about cars - and I think the garage have quickly realised that. I don't think it's the first time she's been taken advantage of by them. Makes me wonder if there even was a dead bulb! I reckon she ought to go back and politely tell them their invoicing computer must have a glitch because the decimal point should have been one place to the left next to the bulb change. A fiver seems reasonable to me. After that, a change of garage is definitely required. I couldn't trust anyone who'd done that to me.

Evening all, A friend of my wife just had the coil springs replaced on her 2010 Octavia Scout. When she got the bill, the garage had also charged her for replacing a brake light bulb. £50. Yes, £50. I just looked at a YouTube video of a guy changing one on a Mk 2 estate (presumably the same job as on a Scout?). Took less than two minutes, involved no special tools or skills and looked like a pretty ordinary bulb. Is it me? 🤔

Many thanks all. Just the kind of stuff I needed to know. I won't worry about 14" wheels now 👍

Afternoon all, Been looking for a 2016 Citigo to replace my daughter's which unfortunately she wrote off. Not much suitable in our budget around so looking at a Mii. However, they seem to have 14 inch wheels instead of the 15 inch on the Citigo. What difference does this make, if any? Are they any more expensive to replace? How do they affect the ride? Cheers.

Much appreciated 👍

Sorry, I meant a Citigo.

Is it the same for 15 inch alloys?

Absolutely right Blackcountryman - it is a bit of a pain to get at. I found sliding the seat right back helped a little. I even tried leaning over from the passenger side but that was way worse so don't bother unless you're a contortionist. Spot on with the screwdriver on the tab thing too Ondrej - and I was pleased to discover the (white) fuse removal tool clipped to the underneath. It just pulls off and clips back on afterwards. I'm still puzzling over which fuse is the one for the 12v "cigarette lighter" socket though 🤔

From my experience, the same applies to so many things, which "could come in useful one day". I think in all my 60 years, it has actually happened about as many times as I can count on the fingers of one finger 😉 Forgive my lack of knowledge but if the car is running fine, as usual, wouldn't that suggest it's probably not a plugs issue? Not saying they shouldn't be done anyway, erring on the side of them being the originals.....

That's a much better idea, thanks roottoot. It's clear to me now why I only got half a physics O level 🙄🤭 Does seem a bit unlikely to be just the fuel (the identical car has had no issues with the ordinary and we've had it longer) but I'd like to rule out as many cheap and/or simple possibilities as I can before splashing much cash.