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Citigo2032

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    Maura, Norway

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    Skoda Citigo

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  1. Roundabout. The driver to the right did see a small red car (mine), and maybe thought "just a slow senior citizen - I'll make it".
  2. I have finally done both rear brakes. Replaced all parts, except the drum. I did also print out a dust cap for the torx screw that holds the pistons in place. The printed material is flexible and fits tight to the head of that screw - just to prevent dirt stacking up in there till next repair. I had some hard time cleaning this before the torx key (30 size) fitted well. Don't need to do that next time. I did it easiest in this order: 1: Removed the piston by unscrew the torx and the braking tube. 2: Removed the two small nails that goes through the shoes, with those springs and caps. 3: Forced the lower part out before removing the bottom spring. Surprisingly easy with a little force. 4: Removed the upper small spring. 5: Pulled rest of the assambly easily out. 6: Unhook the hand brake wire. Fitting new parts in this order: 1: Fitted the upper horizontal bar with the large upper spring into one shoe first. I used a screw clamp to pull the shoe in right place. 2: Put the adjustment wedge in place. (You can do this later, but then you need to force the shoes apart to make enough space to put that part in place). 3: Fitted the next shoe into the other side of the bar. Take care of the hand brake lever, and how you fit this lever into the upper bar. 4: Fitted the small upper spring (in front), and the adjustment wedge spring. 5: Hook in the hand brake wire. Somewhat hard, but possible. 6: Put this assambly in place. 7: Hooked on the lower large spring. 8: Forced the shoes back in to place at the bottom. 9: Hook on the adjustment wedge spring into the shoe. 10: Fitted the nails, springs and caps. 11: Fitted the piston. Before putting the drum back on, push up the adjustment wedge as far as possible to make enough space for the drum to fit easily. As soon as you push the braking pedal, the wedge refit itself into position. Important! Put back the drum BEFORE you do any attemt to remove air from the braking fluid. If not, the pistons will pop out while in great tension from the upper springs. Not good.
  3. Yeah, rust is hard to fight. The problem with most coatings is that they are not actually waterproof and rubble proof. Painting with powder coating is probably the safest way to make a long term solution. I'm not gonna do that, but maybe I'll use a few layers of 2-component paint that can stand rubble for a good while - not shure it will stand heat. One problem is that the drum will rust where you cannot apply paint - like on the inside. Rust WILL eat its way out and loosen the paint, and start its rust attack there too.
  4. No worries. I managed to repair the "cup" where the nail is going throug, and fittet it easily. It works fine. I have ordered a complete set of parts, so everything except the drums will be replaced. When the drums are off next time, I will sand blast them on the outside and give them a good protective coating that stands heat. Then uing the airbrush and paint them ruby red (Ruby red is VERY close to the original color of this car).
  5. I have attached pictures of the adjustment wedge (I found it), and the whole braking system. I discovered the wedge when I activted the brakes without the drum. Then I did see that the wedge was on its way to fall out because the braking shoe was so far out. So I thought it was logic that this part is the adjustment wedge. When I pressed this adjustment wedge upwards with a screwdriver, AND pushed the hand brake lever sideways a bit, the drum almost fell off by it self. A little fight though, but very easy to remove the drum. So now I have grinded both drums, and they are very easy to remove - because I think I have to replace the shoes and all the other parts soon. Vidar
  6. I finally made it. I did not actually find the adjustment wedge, I think, but I managed to hear some spring noises when clawing with that screwdriver. I located the hand brake lever too, and pushed it via the hole. The drum did not come off easy, and the "nail" with that spring on it which hold one of the shoes in position, did fall off. Now I have grinded the drum with a Dremel to remove that edge which prevents the drum from being removed. The shoes have approx 3mm of useful sole. However, when I got that drum off, one of the pistons fell of, so now there is air in the cylinder. I will remove this air tomorrow. It's late now, and I have no one to tighten that bleeder screw for me when the air is out.
  7. I just watched a video regarding the same issue on an Octavia. Shining a light into ine hole and locate this adjustment wedge. I'll try that. Lots of tools, but lack of CitiGo-skills, but now I'm ready to end this war :-) Thanks!
  8. I didn't reached that far to see if the shoes was worn out. I did not manage to get that drum off, and there is no obvious place to kick that drum off or loosen the shoes enough to allow the drum to be removed easily. I think the dealer has to look at it. The breaks has now been running for 81 000km (approx 50 600 miles). The breaking pads in the front are still good, so are the discs, but that does not necessarily mean that the shoes and the drum is fine.
  9. I have had some issues with the rear brakes lately. I never use the hand brake - just put the car it in 1.st gear. Still I have had some issues with the rear breaks. They get stuck over night, and are so tight that the car lifts its rear end up when I try to back out of the garage. Then I hear a "bang" and the breaks loosen up. Still, the breaking pads might cause the rear wheels to stop turning on ice and snow - not good. I talked to a technician at the dealer, and the rear breaking system is suppose to be cleaned every 30 000km. My car has ran for 81 000km now without any cleaning. So I guess we've addressed the problem. Today I tried to disassamble the breaking system, but could not remove the drum (I removed the torx screw). I hit the drum and the shield behind it (where all the springs and mechanism is fasten) several tims with a rubber hammer. The drum was clearly loose becaus I could turn the hub and hold back the drum. Is there an adjustment screw somewhere I can loosen up so the breaking pads are fully released from the drum? I just could not remove it - not more than 0.5mm or so. So instead removing the drum, I used high pressure air and blew into the bolt holes. The garage was instantly filled with brown dust, so I though it migh be a god idea using a vacuum cleaner near by while blowing. That helped a lot. Anyways, I slammed that hammer into every spot I could find, and soon enough a pile of dirt and breaking dust was growing on the floor. Suddenly the drum was free to rotate, tested the hand break, and the wheels released when putting the hand break back into normal. The problem is solved for now, and hopefully it will last for a while.
  10. Every time I have problems (Not so many times though), I have videorecorded the faults - and I have manual gear. However, it's not easy to record faults that does not happen very often, unless you have a routine to take a video every time you start the engine and put it into drive. Once in a while the engine lamp is lit after startup when a "ping"-sounds at the same time. If I shut the engine down, and start it again, everything is normal. But before I shut it down I take a picture of the lamp, just in case. I also have a engine diagnostic tool (just for reading out any issues) that I put in while the engine lamp is lit, but the diagnostics cannot find anything wrong. I have also had some noises in the rear bumpers or something, like something is loose when I drive very slow, or backing out of the garage. The dealer could not find anything wrong because they could not replicate the problem, untill one day when a technician went with me and I found some bumpy road and drow slowly. He could confirm the noise came from the rear right side. The bumper was replaced together with some "bearings". But the problem is still there. Not a BIG issue.
  11. How the CitiGo are doing in snow? Excellent. A little bit low though. I had to speed up from the road once to cross the courtyard and park in the garage. 20-30cm snow, and "some" snow ended up in the garage. https://youtu.be/v0ntkkZvJ84 A few weeks ago I had to make a parkingspot in 40cm snow: https://youtu.be/nRs41hf2oaU
  12. On the way home today I gently pulled the handbreak on the way into the courtyard... :-) https://youtu.be/KrkRVPwuLrk
  13. Hi. I was invited to a "RC plane group party" last weekend, and the location did not have a parking spot. What do you do when you realize you've forgot that big snow shuffle? I decided to test my CitiGo and its off road skills in 30-40cm snow to make my own parking spot. I'm impressed how this small car managed to plow some space without getting stuck . https://youtu.be/nRs41hf2oaU
  14. I have attached an night time footage with and without the filter. It is quite obvious that the filter block out light - specially when there is night or early mornings. The day time image do not show that much of a difference.
  15. I have uploaded a couple of videos on youtube showing how the filter affect night time footage, and how it eliminate windscreen reflections at day time. https://youtu.be/X7-oKwKlHHE Night time footage: https://youtu.be/VtG7MkdL8PQ
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