SheffieldVRS
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Posts posted by SheffieldVRS
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Somebody ran out of inspiration or motivation when designing that front end.
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Have you checked the intake pipe between the airbox and turbo for splits? If you have a bluetooth OBD and Torque you can check MAF, fuel trims, air temps etc on the fly to see if there is anything suspicious.
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On 28/02/2017 at 17:28, Sean9090 said:
Hi what suspension setup have you got on your vrs, I like the first 2 pics at the very top.
That user was last seen on the forum in 2013 so you probably won't get an answer.
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It can happen but this kit has already done 40+k with the last owner. I can get reman 20v heads fairly cheap and it wouldnt cost much more to have hardened seats put in. Easily offset by the cost of running in the first year.
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Good point. For the cost I am going to go on fixed interval servicing but use longlife oil. An oil drop once a year at that cost is not expensive or time consuming for peace of mind. I intend on keeping it for a few years as running it on LPG is rediculously economical. I'm just hoping it stays reliable
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Do you know roughly where abouts in the engine bay? Have a listen with the bonnet up and try and work out front or rear, top end, timing side etc.
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Do you get the impression these cars are one step up on a sieve. I had a boot leak on mine but handily resolved due to an ancient thread on here.
Thanks to Bowders without wanting to resurrect the thread.
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Usually one of the boost pipes are split. Does it sound like you have a puncture on your tyre but louder and have you lost any performance?
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54 minutes ago, vrsTom said:
5W-30 VW 504.00/507.00 spec oil is the recommended for long life servicing
Thanks Tom. The car is on variable so will stick to quantum 05w-30 longlife. £20 quid seems like a good price for aswell
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On 13/02/2017 at 23:06, Leeboy said:
Lots of questions there!
I'll start off with your idle question. Before disconnecting the throttle body, take the hose off and have a look if it is particularly grubby first. If not then probably won't solve your problem.
Took the intake pipe off last weekend and had a look at the TB. Didnt seem overly bad but propped the butterfly open and wiped out the slight build up. Idles slightly better but cleaned the MAF + AIT sensor and it seems to idle as it should now.
Still couldn't detrmine if 10-40w semi or 05-30w synthetic is the correct oil if anyone could help?
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Quick update on this incase anyone finds it on Google with a similar problem. Bought some electrical contact cleaner fom Halfords, cleaned the MAF and air intake temp sensor. The MAF didnt really leave any deposits in the run off but the AIT had some baked on oil. Quick rub of the AIT with a cotton bud brought it up looking nice. Filled up with some premium petrol, turned the LPG system off and went for a drive. Car now boosts stong hitting 10psi although will drop off to 8psi. MAF values go up to about 160g at high RPM so it looks to have resolved. Idle is also now smooth.
Well worth a £3.50 punt before changing the MAF.
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97k with full history
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Ran home with the MAF unplugged and it seemed to run smoother. No big hit of boost in 1st, all gears beyond that pulled smoothly. Couldn't feel any difference in power (compared to maf plugged in) pulling through the rev range. Turbo also sounded like it was boosting constant. Not sure if it means my MAF is knacked or the problem is elsewhere and being masked by then MAF being disconnected.
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48 minutes ago, octyal said:
Not sure if you have an issue or not really,
I drove quite a few of these when they were new cars and this one feels like its lacking. When it comes on boost it pulls strong momentarily then you can hear the boost drop off and feel the performance reduce.
I’m using realtime graphs add on for Torque and if you scroll through the graphs you can see all the numerical data at any given point. The screenshots are taken at points of interest. Like the third pic is at nearly 4k revs but only showing 6psi. Airflow meter also looks low at sub 100 given 4k should be full boost. Threads like the one below have figures quoted higher for almost standard 150ps 20VT's http://uk-mkivs.net/topic/54049-what-peak-maf-gs-readings-do-you-get/page-2
The boost seems right as vacuum showing at approx -20 at idle.
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Will try and keep this initial post to the short version. Car doesn’t feel as spritely as it should be so hooked up the bluetooth and torque. No fault codes showing in the ECU. Went for a drive and it seems to be boosting at about 5.5psi. If you floor it in first it will spike up to around 15psi but long pulls in 2nd,3rd, 4th etc all see maybe 8psi on the initial WOT but will then drop down to mid 5’s. Spent last night and today reading various VW forums and also the first 15 pages of this forum when searching for ‘boost issues’ but none of the problems seem to be the same as this.
Understand it could be possibly vac pipe leaks which I am going to try and rule out tomorrow and going to try a couple of runs with the maf disconnected tonight. There are no boost pipe leaks. The N249, N75 or MAP are also areas to look at but not sure how to start ruling them out without replacing.
Hoping someone has come across this or got an idea where to start.
Below are a couple of screenshots showing various sensors on a longer 1st, 2nd and 3rd gear pull on the dual carriageway. The MAF looks to be reading a little low but not sure.
1st
2nd
3rd
1st ,2nd and 3rd last night 1st was nearly 15psi
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Cheers Leeboy. Will give the breather pipes a good going over and have a poke around the TB before I do anything with it.
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Got a few questions I can’t find a definitive answer for after google searches and thought I would stick these questions in one thread rather than start numerous.
1. I have a slightly lumpy idle when warm but when the car is cold its absolutely still on tick over. Its not bouncing like the ICV is faulty. When the throttle is pressed slightly and the revs raise 100rpm+ then the idle the engine is still again. Not sure if its couple with the slight jerkiness that I have when going back on throttle or holding light throttle at 1,800rpm. Are there any other culprits than the throttle body needing a clean? I was going to swap the plugs out in the next couple of weeks when I service to rule that out also.
2. Which leads me on to the next question. Do you have to use Vag Com to do a TB adaption after it has been off. Some information online says you can do it without. If not will VCDS lite allow you to do it?
3. Need to replace a diff seal due to a slight weep. Does anyone know the dealer part number for it? Also if I am being picky the box has a very slight catch (wouldn’t call it a crunch) when going into second in a morning but only for the first mile or so. What gearbox oil would people recommend to use, standard or drop some different aftermarket oil in.
4. Car has flashed up that it needs a service. According to the handbook and chassis its on variable servicing. What’s the correct oil? Autodata lists all sorts of grades but doesn’t state what is the correct grade and type for variable.
1. Going to replace the oil pickup for peace of mind whilst doing the service. What are people using as a good sealant
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Didn't realise it was one of "those topics". Every forum seems to have them where they end up in a heated debate when posted.
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12 minutes ago, Offski said:
As a trader if they are they are held by the Sale of Goods act and the regulations that refer to Motor Vehicles with no get outs.
Forget the warranty stuff, 3 months or 300 yards.
You learn something new every day. I thought they could enter a contract for sold as seen if you sign a disclaimer.
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23 minutes ago, Offski said:
Make no difference when the Trader is a Trader unless they are selling for Spares or Repair a non runner.
That was my point, as trade in with no warranty implied but they usually carry a disclaimer on sale. May be a moot point depending on what the BIL has purchased and from who.
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Depends on what it is and how much he paid for it. If it’s a retail car then he has consumer rights but if it was advertised as trade in/priced to clear etc even though it was being sold via a dealer then the waters get a bit muddier. They usually carry a disclaimer when being sold, so do you have the invoice for sale?
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1. Probably an air lock, low coolant or blocked matrix.
2. From what I have read its the micro switch in the door.
See this thread
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I had this on the day I picked my VRS up a couple of weeks ago. Worked fine when I test drove the car, which is just my luck. It was a long and warm drive back down the M1
Read a few things online about what it could be and whether it was luck or a fix I managed to get mine back working. Basically cycled up and down the heat range with recirculation on (but no climate) whilst blowing air through the centre two vents at full blower speed also, switched between vents and floor. Apparently the common issues are the flap gets stuck or the temp sensor was having a wobbly.
At that point I wasn't signed up for this forum so was trying what I could to get it working. Touch wood, its been fine for the last couple of weeks
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What gaps are people setting/checking them at?
Read a few things online about what it could be and whether it was luck or a fix I managed to get mine back working. Basically cycled up and down the heat range with recirculation on (but no climate) whilst blowing air through the centre two vents at full blower speed also, switched between vents and floor. Apparently the common issues are the flap gets stuck or the temp sensor was having a wobbly.
Front windows
in Skoda Octavia Mk I (1996-2004)
Posted
Anyone know if the factory glass has a tint as it has a slightly green hue when wet in the morning