Nisko

Actually Offski, no and no (airbox opened, filter checked), and no you didn't miss it.... Interesting pointer. Thank you for your suggestion mate.

Hello mrgf! Wow and many many thanks for all the information and your time... Wild goose chase - No, you haven't. Though mine is an auto, I'm sure you presume correctly that essentially, much will appear the same with the location of the sensor with my car. Update... Drove to work yesterday and had the very barest of stutters on my way in. The homeward journey however was a totally different experience...not even a murmur! Couldn't be more pleased to report, car behaved itself- not a hint of the annoying problem. I thanked the heavens with relief once back home, and have everything crossed this was what my mechanic referred to as the car finally balancing out and running back to normal on its own. Will see how it goes today, and definitely prefer the option of removing the battery head as suggested should I run into any further problems. The locating, cleaning and or replacement of the sensor as stated from Haynes gives me a headache simply from reading. Can't imagine I'd have much hair left on me were the mechanic to actially attempt the 'procedure'. Once again, many thanks and will be sure to give another update in a day or two.

Hi mrgf and thank you for your response and the heads up on the Haynes. Not to sound lazy, but your kind offer to look up the manual would be helpful and greatly appreciated. Very much doubt I'll be able to lay my hands on one. The gremlin must be banished.

I was unfortunately daft enough to go in to a service station to have a high pressure engine wash done on my 2010 1.6 petrol Fabia over a long long holiday weekend. The compulsion to 'constructively' use ones time off has a lot to answer for! Anyhew, got a fairly clean engine bay back, but though the car cranked up and slid out of the wash area normally, all hell broke loose soon after. It stalled, I restarted, it was having none of it. A few cranks later, it eventually started with the Rev count permanently situated at 1000 rpm without coming down. It simply stayed there. Thoroughly ticked off but on some alternate universe overjoyed it was at least motorable, I paid and left suspecting water had gotten in to plugs or somewhere else it had no business but would eventually dry out. I surmised the unusual rev count was the cars smart way of coping in order to keep itself going, and that it would return to normal by the following day. So I kept my OCD in check, eventually got home and tried not to think about it. Sure enough, next day car was back in sinus rhythm. But once I tried to drive out, splutter, misfires and jerking ensued. Was still confident the engine simply needed drying out, or a plug or two needed replacing, called up mechanic and headed in. As suspected a plug was changed as it had died (the darn pressure wash being the cause evidenced by a little water around the chamber), car calmed down. We ran another diagnostic after the initial one telling us there was a misfire in 1 and 2 as it's idle was better, but it still hiccupped and jerked when pulling away or whilst driving up an incline rapidly. The new error code is P0327 knock sensor low circuit output bank 1, and it won't be denied. It wants my attention, and it's definitely gotten it as I hate driving the car now. The occasional jerk and wobble reminds me every time I caused this with the bloody high pressure wash. Never again! I live in the tropics by the way. Daytime temperatures hit 37 Celsius easy, and though we are in the rains at the moment, think it's safe to say drying out is no longer the issue. Mechanic says I should change coil packs, the lot of them. Fine for him to say, he isn't paying the bill! They are expensive, especially here, where it's not exactly a common brand. In fairness to him though, his cheapest alternative advice is that we do nothing. That the car will balance out, and will go back to normal. OCD me has however long since been replaced with Manic mode me. Too far gone up the road of 'I hate this!' to now do nothing.... Anyway, tested by earthing, the coils and plugs all seem to be working OK, and the diagnostic reader no longer brings up faults of misfires in any of the chambers. Having done some reading online, realise the P0327 could be as a result of the high pressure water dislodging a wire, or at least something less dramatic than the need for a total coil pack change or the replacement of the sensor itself. The sensor seems like a totally complicated piece of kit, so much so the mechanic doesn't even know where it is on my car. He looked. So one of my questions is where is it on a Fabia mark 2. Diagram and or pics would be incredibly helpful, so one can check for connections and wiring that might be dislocated. Another is how much and where might I get it online if I am (hopefully not) forced to replace. And how complicated is it to fix the replacement part? What I read so far has me believing I might first need a crash course in automotive engineering and that just to properly supervise...I need help! Thanks in advance, and my sincerest apologies for the amount of words you just waded through. Would just really like my car back to where it ran without its new affectations.

Right, go easy it is then. Thanks for the clarification.

Ahhhh.....so shouldn't wait for blue temperature warning light to go out before moving off? My apologies if this sounds like a daft question, but that's what I currently do.

Thanks for the advice m8t, will look into that.

...temperatures, hear you're in the middle of something of a heatwave , yes. Done 79,294 km, and now you mention *covers face* service indicator is on. Perhaps I should do as you suggested, and then get back with an update. Thanks

Hi! My Skoda continues to keep things interesting for me, and the latest glitch is an idle rpm which without reason jumps from 750 to 1000 rpm. Usually starting the car in the mornings, it as per normal starts out with the higher rpm at 1000 and then drops down to the usual 750 idle and stays put once it's all warmed up and running at normal operating temperature. That's when it's behaving... Yesterday, it decided it wasn't coming off the 1000 rpm (even though I don't normally move the car till I have optimal operating temperature achieved), but as it has randomly done this before even during the day (not just cold starts in the morning), and as it had worked before on those occasions, I switched off the engine and back on and voila!....The Coke Bottle as I like to call it, returns to normal idle. Now I've read on a couple threads about cars regenerating and diesels doing this...mine isn't a diesel. Also read about cold ambient temperatures making for the 'clever' technology which ensures the car doesn't stall in colder weather (the thinking I guess being better higher rpms than the car stalling on you), but I live in the tropics. Seasonal rains here right now, but even accounting for the slightly milder temperatures, we're still looking at 23-32 Celsius daytime which is hardly anyone's winter and I bet many in England would trade that for a good summers day . Anyway, it's rather uncomfortable to drive a car which irrationally (to me at least) kicks in with higher rpms erratically and basically drives you forward rather than let you do the driving. Not nice and hate the sound of the engine once it's doing it too. By the way, notice if I want to ensure it goes all mad on me, Air-conditioning load on the car is pretty much guaranteed to make the rpm jump (though I can see the rational behind that, engine is afterall carrying more load), but lights on and your radio and a cold day (er, in my case that would convert to an English warm summers day), not so much. So what could be the problem? "The Coke Bottle" is a 2010 1.6L, 16v petrol Automatic (not a usual engine configuration for the UK, I know), but any help would be greatly appreciated.

Hi, might I. Know what color this is and the colour code?

I believe it's the paint code for the Mark 3 which I'm looking for. Seems to be slightly different form the Mark 2...The Mark 3 fabia is bluer, deeper. In other words, like the paint in second pic though my car is a Mark 2 Fabia

About to paint my car and initially decided on Pacific Blue with a white roof and white wing mirrors. Now feeling slightly more adventurous and came across this rendering of a Yeti with racing stripes. Pretty sure I'm not interested in the stripes, but I absolutely love the colour they are sitting on. Can anyone tell me what specific blue that is or even better still, what the colour code is. The colour is a rather bold, but not over the top blue which would stand out without overpowering the cars aesthetics. A fresh modern colour to jazz up the Fabia's overall rather sedate design architecture. Otherwise, is there a means by which one can match the colour (app, tool I don't know of) directly from this render. Thanks as always for any help.

Helpful. Thanks

Thanks for the response fabia88.

Still working hard on 'restoring' my 2010 1.6L Fabia Hatchback and gotten to the stage where I'm thinking on what tyre size best suits. I unfortunately need a set of four tyres, and with such a potentially costly proposition would obviously rather not make a mistake with my choice. Based on what has worked for you, what tyre size would you advise me to purchase especially in terms of ride quality and wheel arch clearance and aesthetics. The car is fitted with 15" rims and I'm not into making the rather unconventional shape of the car look even more awkward by sticking puny looking tyres under its already boxy shape. Looking at buying either manufacturer recommended 185/60 R15 88H or 195/55 R15 88H or going with 195/60 R15 or 195/65 R15. What would be the upside or downside to any of these four tyre sizes, and apologies if this has been posted elsewhere as I didn't find a topic which dealt with this. Oh by the way, I live in the tropics so no need to worry about chains, snow and the like as we don't get any. Please also throw in information on correct tyre pressure you might recommend for both front and back tyres. Thanks in advance