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My Superb has decided to comit suicide! Traveling to work the other day I got a message flashed up on the dashboard with a large red oil can symbol and text indicating oil pressure issues. By the time I'd pulled up (on motorway) I could hear a noise under the bonnet which to my untrained ear sounded like turbo bearings. Had a word with the mechanic and he confirmed that there was an oil pressure fault, the turbo is most likely a gonner and most likely other consequential damage too. As the car is 13 years old and 120K miles on the clock it will not be economical to repair. Real shame as other than that the car is good, I was expecting at least another couple of years from it. To add insult to injury he told me the most likely cause is a pin/peg in the drive to the oil pump which have a habit of wearing so stopping drive to the 'heart' of the motor. I really wish he'd told me about this during one of the many services I've had with him over the past 41/2 years as I'd have performed a pre-emtive strike on it. Really sad Anyone with a similar aged car may want to take note - Mine is a 2008 with the PD engine which I believe is designated BMP, don't know if other engines are similar. Car is currently sitting on my drive and I guess I'm going to have to advertise it as spares or repair to be towed away which I'll do in the next few days but if anyone has any interest in it I'd be happy to hear from you. It's a 2008 140BHP TDI car in Elegance spec'

I'm sure you are correct but I've never been bothered enough to change it, and I've not got around to getting VCDS yet although I probably should. I don't have too much interest in improving fuel consumption. Apparently dinosaur fuels, particularly Diesel, are very nasty things to have around so I'm on a mission to get them used up as quickly as possible, I'm struggling to make much of a dent with the Diesel Superb at around 50MPG but my other 2 cars are both Petrol and at just short of 10 litres combined are doing a good job.

It's a pointless exercise anyway. VW has only a tenuous relationship with the truth and their MPG figures have no great level of accuracy, don't expect the l/100km values will be any better. Mine are generally >10% out. Mind you to get 5-8MPG by way of the ICE would mean one stupidly powerful system or driving very slowly.

That's just the kind of tool I wish I'd had today and yesterday. Don't know why the hell VW don't use hex headed bolts given the access issues. Actually I do know why!

Cheers again Chimaera. The 180Nm is not so bad but that 180° had my 3/4metre, 1/2" drive breaker bar was bent like a nine bob note! No lasting damage though. Just for any one else looking the tool is a 18mm spline tool seem to also be called XZN splines. It is NOT Torx. Also need a 14mm for the brake caliper mount screws which VW have carefully designe to be as difficult as possible to get on to, would have been easier to hake the whole rear corner off it I'd had it on the ramp. Best advice it to get the shortest spline tool you can even the short one I had was difficult. Annoying thing is the bearing felt perfect, should be as the car's only done 120,000 miles but the problem was the ABS trigger ring. Sorted it and I'll be doing the other side soon as I can, there's no problem with it but my OCD won't let me change one side.

Cheers Chimaera, it's FWD

Just looking at changing my rear wheel bearings (ABS fault) and I'm struggling to find consistent torque values for the large centre nut and also looking for confimation on tool required for this and the brake caliper retaining braket. I've seen torque values for the centre nut between 127 & 180nm plus a 180° turn. I suspect true value is 180nm and the 127 although quoted in nm is actually a ft-lb equivalent but would apprecitate confirmation. The tool required is a spline/torx type, I suspect 18mm XZN but again would appreciate confimation (as I'll have to buy one) likewise for the caliper braket which I belive is XZN 14? All help very much appreciated.

My (Elegance spec') car came with rather nasty looking 16" wheels rather than the correct 18's. They all had new tyres so I ran them until they needed changing (about 2 years), I bought the car as a workhorse so didn't mind the "whale on castors" look. When the tyres came to need changing I found a set of better looking wheels in 17" as I didn't want to go to 18" with the elastic band tyres, the comfort on the 17's is not too different to the 16's so I think a good compromise. I was tempted to go up a one step on the profile but didn't, still wish I had, personally I think a slightly beefier sidewall looks better (don't know where this fashion for virtually no sidewall has come from). My calculations indicated that this would make my speedo' reading more accurate (as ever they read high as standard) rather than making it read low although, obviously, I would have checked that if I'd gone that way. BTW, as long as you stick to the recommended profile you're speedo' reading won't be a problem, the outer tyre diameter will be the same Not sure why the weight of the car would be an issue in wheel size choice, could argue that a heavier car gives a better sprung:un-sprung weight ratio giving the suspension an easier life. Likewise don't quite see why low profile tyres would get 'eaten' any more than un-low profiles due to weight. When I changed my wheels I went for a set from an Audi as there are more available for that source and I liked the pattern better than most Skoda wheels, Trinity wheels are nice though and I'd have thought you'd get a decent price for them if you sell them, or if you have space keep them and swap over when winter comes.

I knew I shouldn't have done it. Friend of mine asked me yesteday how the Superb was going and like a fool I said it was all wonderful. Just poped up to the shops now and dashboard lit up with ABS, TCS and Tyre pressure warning lights. I'm assuming this is wheels speed sensor as would not expect the others (yaw, acceleration and so on) to also affect the TPMS (although I've bee surprised before). Obviously I need to work out which wheel is at fault and the way forward is with a scan. Question is though do I need VCDS or will as 'simple' scanner do the job? Car is a 2008 Mk2 if that will make any difference

Did this job today so just like to say thanks to all contributors, helped a lot. found it a bit difficult to get a socket onto the rearmost top mount bolt with the wheel arch liner in place (nearly rounded) first one off. Removed liner and much easier. For the sake of removing about 8 screws I’d highly recommend it.

That's interesting, the noise was so bad on mine that I found it hard to believe it was the tyre(s), thought I had a gearbox dropping out or something, but switch the tyres over and the car's perfect. Has to be at a very exact speed though, around 12MPH, above or below and the noise is reduced and more constant.

Good point, should have mentioned the mileage, I'd have to look at my records but I think it's around 15-18,000. I measured the depth when I removed them and they were around 5mm which to me is around 50% worn. My reason for wanting a claim is that tyres should not cause this kind of problem even if they are down to the limit. I guess by a Michelin dealer you mean any tyre shop which sell Michelin tyres? The next thing I was going to do was put the drivers side wheel back on and see it that is OK and issue just on passenger side.

Hi all, just looking for some advice or suggestions here. I put new tyres on the Superb back in January 2019, changing from 16" to 17" wheels at same time. All has been OK since then and as they are now about half worn I recently decided to swap them front to back to even out wear. Not long after this I realised that the car was a little more noisy than usual and a little vibrarion was felt through the steering wheel, however what really got my attention was when I was moving slowly, at around 12 MPH in a smooth car park I suddenly got a very significant noise, like a Thud-thud-thud sound from the passenger side, so bad I thought the wheel was about to fall off. Got out and checked it can't see any problem. Carried on driving and it was back to normal, seems whatever is wrong kind of resonates at this speed. Found it hard to believe it could be tyres but swapped over to my 16" wheels on the front to test and car is suddenly much better at all speeds, I obviously hadn't realised how bad it had become. I've had both front wheels spun up and checked for balance and runout, small out of balance which i got corrected but no runout. Put the wheels back on, still bad as ever. I can only assume the issue is a problem with the internals of the tyre (on sign of damage externally), I'm obviously not happy about this as they are not cheap and cheerful tyres, Michelin Cross-climate and have never been mis-treated (I never park against of partly no a kerb or run into kerbs), never hit any extreme pot holes or anything else which could cause the problem. Anyone had anythign similar or any ideas what the cause may be? Now I'm wondering what to do next. Should I put this down to experience, replace the tyres and just not ever buy Michelin again or should I try and pursue a claim? Has anybody had any joy with warranty claims for tyres?

Lane assist never works properly. The correct action for a safety system which detects that the driver is not capable of keeping a vehicle in a lane should be to leave the road, park up and take steps to have their licence revoked but all they do is shake the wheel or some such nonsense. Reversing camera a safety aid, really?

I think the air in the UK is more corrosive to cam belt material than in other countries and the UK motorist has a proven track record of being quite happy to bend over and take it up the tail pipe

Had a rear break on my 58 plate car back in March, replaced both as seemed false economy not to. Must say not happy that a spring which was brand new only 11 and a half years and 110k miles ago should let me down but what else could I do? Had to replace a wheel bearing (front) a year ago, again did both sides. No biggie, about £70 each and about half an hour to do on my driveway (would be quicker n a ramp) as they’re made as a bolt out, bolt in job. All cars have parts wear and failures, particularly as the years move on. Not sure Skoda are any worse than others.

Thanks for the responses both. My mileage is about average I'd say at around 12000 in a 'normal' year. However around 3/4 of that is work mileage which I get paid for so fuel consumption is not a major issue and whatever I get will probably be a petrol. My previous car was a Golf R which, as I understand it, has a similar engine & drivetrain to the higher powered Superb models, I never really got into the mechanical and service side of things though as that was a lease so as long as I got serviced when due it was not my problem. I'm a bit shocked at the haldex giving up at 30k, how can any major component fail at such humble miles? Given that I'm most likely to be looking at cars around 3 years old I'll not have any manufacturers warranty remaing so that could be an issue. Guess I've still got a lot of thinking to do, thanks again.

Hi all. Been on this site for the past 3 and a bit years on the Superb 2 section as I have a 2008 Elegance 140 Diesel The car has served me well for that time so I'm now looking at trading up to an S3. I'm currently looking at Sportline models with the 2L TSI engine and looking for any tips on what I should look out for/avoid. Is there and general failures on this model/engine which make them worth avoiding? In know VW have had some poor petrol engines in previous models. I'll be going for DSG, are there any expected issues there? Also when do expesive service items occur. I'm expecting DSG oil change would be 40k miles as per my current car and if I'm lucky enough to get a 4x4 the rear diff oil (and filter?) would be a similar mileage. What about timing belt? I got caught out on that with my current car as it had been changed not too many miles ago but then found out Skoda UK insist it should be done every 4 years regardless of mileage, is that same on the petrol engines? Maybe they moved to a chain now? Any information greatly appreciated, thanks in advance.

Due to the extremely way Skoda have designed the boot to bend the wiring harness at an extreme angle broken wires are guaranteed particularly in an older vehicle. The thread above is an excellent write up on how to sort it out. When I did mine around half the cores were severed and not helpful that some wires are the same colour.

Mine is also 2008 and only has boot open on fob not hatch, don't think it's possible to open hatch on my car, don't recall reading anything about that in manual. Maybe your fob is from later car?

Given all the negatives (correctly) mentioned what are you trying to achieve? Also worth mentioning that there are regulations governing tyres protruding outside of bodywork, you could have issues at MoT or if you get a particularly officious officer who hasn’t hit his/her target that month.

Check engine light came on earlier today after a brief spell of “Engne Fault Workshop!” with glow plug light (this has happened on and off for the past 3 years. checked for codes, found p0546 - Exhaust Gas Temperature sensor circuit high. Seems this could be sensor or wiring. Great, but where is the sensor and how do I get to it (through the bonnet or underneath)? Anybody know?