JacksVRS

Thanks man! Got the drivers one done took some time and changed the backrest frame too. Even with cable ties was awkward at times. Hope it all works now after all that😂😂😂.

Sticky time now! You were right perfect fit. Must do the side ones and then the backrest then all back together.

Hi Trevor, thanks for all the pointers! For the drivers side I’ve to completely remove the backrest as my recline mechanism isn’t working correctly (sometimes won’t go up unless you push it in the way and then recline upwards) I have a donor backrest with airbag so I’ll be fitting that one instead. Just started the drivers one there now so nearly at the bit of unclipping the foam from the seat base😁

It could be just that the leather seat is larger and has more surface area than the cloth one. Just not gonna know till I start splitting and putting them in! Picture 2 is what the coils look like in the leather version.

I was also out messing around with a spare ordinary Octavia seat I had split open to look at it. I lined up the pads just to see how things would look and bared in mind you said the pads had to sit in the valleys so wires etc didn’t break. There are these black squares on the leather pads where the pads should sit in the valleys. I take it these are the connections between each section of pad? It will bend with some pressure applied but is it safe do you think to bend these parts into the valleys? thanks jack

Oh actually was going to ask, for the pop rivets on the back of the seat plastics, did you put in new ones or reuse the ones popped out? Plus for the wires for all the pads backrest, bottom and side pads, do they run down these grooves on the cushion to the bottom of the seat? Oh is there anything else I should know before I start too😁 Thanks Jack

Perfect man thank you! Just a matter of making the time now of attacking it!

Thanks man! So it will be down along here under the marked area? jack

Thanks man! My plan of attack is to get the pads into both seats and put them back together and wire up the under seat looms together for the pads and leave them out of the car. Then pull the centre console out to put in the new hand break sleeve and put the loom in and direct the wires to where they need to go. Where did u direct the kufatec cable for the drivers side to? Through the centre console or under the carpet near the driver door jam? Seen it done that way on the GTi site where they pulled the drivers side door entry trims off and brought it down that way. I’d be inclined to bring all the cables down under the centre console for the kufatec loom and then under the carpet to the holes in the floor to connect to each seat loom. thanks! jack

They must have! Yea sorry ment A was the connector on the kufatec loom for the passenger side and has all the wires for the relay etc and matches perfectly with my passenger seat under seat loom connection that has the relay connection on it. Tbf they have the wires grouped nicely so that you know where all is going and where. Must’ve made big improvements by the sounds of it!😂 the picture below just shows on the left the kufatec loom with the longer cable side for passenger matched up on the right to the genuine under seat wiring loom for the heated seats and relay for passenger side. moral of story I think they’ve actaully got it right 😂

Perfect man that’s the one I was looking at easy to understand too! In the kufatec loom I have the connections grouped on where they’ve to go, so; #1 2 x grounds to drivers footwell for each seat #2 3 x cables to the climate control unit #3 2 x cables for ignition and power to fuse box #4 1 x cable to the cecm module and the two plugs that then connect to the under seat loom. Don’t think I’ll have to swap the looms over as it appears the cable is correct for a RHD which is odd. Longer cable is going to the passenger side and has the most wires on it to allow for the control panel. I did read about yours where the wire wasn’t long enough for the passenger side as it was a LHD based loom so you swapped the under seat looms which is a good solution. The shorter wire on my loom has the least amount of cables on it so I take it it’s for the drivers side. (A) is the longer side and has more cables on the plug and matches with the passenger side underwear loom I got (genuine parts). Kufatec in their guide states this goes to the passenger side. (B) is the shorter cable with less wires on it and matches the driver side under seat loom. I got all the bits from Skoda based on genuine part numbers apart from the kufatec loom. thanks for your help! jack

Hi Trevor, Pretty confident with it tbf! Only wires I’m not sure of is the cecm wire I know it’ll have to go to the cecm module. I also have the climatronic unit here too and I understand I’ll need two wires going here too. It’s just going to be more work really than a mk4 golf/bora. I did a bora before but all you needed was the loom everything else was there the pads in seats already and just some switches. Now I’ve to do it all from scratch but will be worth it! Would also maybe attempt the back seats too but will wait to see how I get on first😁

Hi Trevor, Thanks man! Yep got everything for full leather as I’m doing it on blackline full leather seats. Got the under seat looms, controller, side pads, base pads, backrest, and Kufatec loom. Plenty stuff as seen in the pic! On the second pic you can see the longer cable has the most wires going to the plug and according to kufatec this one goes to the passenger seat for the controller. Yep I read a few forums including yours and I thought they were only LHD looms. I think they do have my vin. thanks! jack

Hi Trevor, Got all the bits coming. Funny the kufatec loom came already and it’s longer to the passenger side and has more wires on that connector too so maybe they sorted that issue I read about you saying years ago? Got all genuine new parts. Going to cable tie the covers back on damn those hog clips😂. Was tempted in also doing the back seats dependent how I get on with the fronts! Thanks! Jack

Hi Mike, So it worked after you cleaned those contacts? I’ve have a similar issue where when I’ve my LED side lights on but once I engage the LED full beams the parks will go off but at random periods of time sometimes straight away other times after 2 mins. I can then turn all the lights off and on without the full beams and voila the side lights work again lol. Bulb error appears on dash once they go out and it’s an electrical fault according to vcds. Would be lead to believe it’s the problem you’ve solved with the Earth contacts! Where abouts are the headlight earths? I take it their E2 and E8. Thanks Mike

Having owned a PPD170 for years I can say it’s been mighty. Every car has its issues. If you get a PPD170 made in very late 2007/2008 should not have any issues. I have the 2008 model. What to look for: - Revised C coded cylinder head. No problems pourous heads so make sure it’s got a C at the end of the head code. A and B heads were used in 2006/07 PD140s and PD170s and were known for going bad requiring head jobs. - DPF/EGR To be honest I’d say there’s more PD engined cars without these devices still in place than there is with them. Every car has issues with these including the CR it down to how it’s driven and servicing. The PDs can be a bit more temperamental than most as they were not designed for DPFs. There is a handy fix tho🫣😏 - Intake Manifolds are made from crappy plastic which can crack with swirl flaps and need to be removed immediately as they’ll go into the engine. It’s a cheap fix. Get an aluminium one from a BKD PD140 in a scrapyard or buy a refurbished one from DarkSide for 120. No mapping required. - Injector issues was another thing that plagued 170s. They used Siemens systems that tended to fail. A good few were recalled for it and had them replaced as they very expensive to replace. I have a May 2008 model with 180k miles which never had any injector issues and I know plenty with the late 07/08 models that also had no issues which would lead you to believe these models were fitted with the newer revision Siemens units. If they did fail there is a cheap fix also for this by fitting a BKD PD140 fuel system, including the Bosch ECU, Injector loom, and injectors. Other than these bits which if I’m honest can all be sorted cheaply enough there’s not much else to go wrong. Just normal wear and tare. The CR170 has been known to suffer similar issues as those mentioned with exemption of the cylinder head issue. I’ve seen many CR170s suffer injector failure and there is no cheap fix for them as well as turbo failures. The PD170 is more raw than the CR170 where the CR170 is more refined. PD170s also have better tuning potential if ya wanted more than a Stage 1 later down the line. Things get expensive after Stage 1 on a CR170. Finally, I know this will offend some CR170 owners but the Prefacelift (PPD170) is a much better built car than the CR170 (Facelift). Having worked and detailed with both the CR170 and owning the PPD170 this is my experience in them. The metals on the facelift CR170 rust quicker around the sills and wings. The interior plastics on the CR170 are a much cheaper quality and this can be seen noticeably in the rear door cards even the two tone seats feel of a cheaper quality on the facelift. Generally I got into a few CR170s with an open mind but the quality just felt a notch below the PD170. Also in relation to metals, I’ve seen a 2010 and 2013 CR170 where the sills were almost rusted through with half the miles of mine ! (We lived in the same area). The parts can be got cheaper for PD170s than the CR170s also. Fixing wise both are pretty much not too bad. That’s just my experience with them. Fuel economy will be roughly the same if I’m honest probably slightly better on the CR model. For a verdict, if you’re not into cars but want something refined and smooth, get the CR170 but in Blackline Trim with full leather as these are nicest ones. If your like me and into details, tuning, and like PDs but also like a more raw driving experience, then a PD170 is the way to go. If it was a CR170 vs CR184, then definitely CR170 as the CR184s are worse than the CR170s. Hope this helps you man. I’m a bit of a PD enthusiast. Jack Edit: Just noticed you mentioned gearboxes. Would advise to stay away from Automatics as it’s more than likely they won’t have been serviced every 35,000 miles and DSG boxes don’t take kindly to poor servicing. Could end up costing a full gearbox rebuild or gearbox. Manual is the only way anyways ! 😁

Hey Guys need some advice. I understand this is described as a monster of a job but I’m willing to take it on. I have a 2008 VRs TDi PFL that I fitted with FL Blackline full leathers. Want to fit heated seats. Had a practice run with taking apart a an ordinary cloth Mk2 Octavia seat had no issues at all seemed basic enough, although when I redo my own I’ll be using small cable ties rather than the wee hooks to keep the seat leather attached to the cushion. I understand a few have done this retrofit, most notably Eddie-NL from research. I have a fair idea what I need. Here it goes: Heated Seat Pads (Leather Only) - 2 x 1Z0 963 557 H - 2 x 1Z0 963 556 B - 2 x 1Z0 963 555 F Climate Control unit - 1 x 1Z0 907 044 J (PFL) Heated Seat Looms for passenger and and driver seats - 1 x 1Z0 971 365DL
 - 1 x 1Z0 971 365DN Heated Seat Control Unit - 1 x 5K0 959 772 Power and Light Loom - 1 x Kufatec 1Z3 Heated Seat loom Coding - 1 x VCDS Last requirement: Plenty time! As you can see I’ve sussed out what I need and how to go about fitting the pads to the seats. The next step is getting from the seats to the car. From reading I understand there is wiring that has to be done to the CECM? I think Eddie-NL was wiring to the BCM which is on the later FL but mine is a PFL. I’ve done the retrofit on a Mk4 Golf/Bora with no issues but I understand there maybe be a bit more complications with introduction of the CECM. In regards coding I’m good with VCDS so coding them in won’t be an issue. It’s more the wiring part and if I forgot anything now is my worry! Thanks for any help and advice! Jack

I didn't get any yet. Want to make sure its gonna work first😅

Hey guys, bit long winded; Wanted to know if anyone had changed to a full leather A3/A4 sline heated seat with electric controls into their PFL vrs? I have blackline seats but no heated function. I was looking for heated blackline leathers to no avail as their pretty rare so I was going to go with the Audi S line seats. My model of vrs uses the 5 stage heated seat switches and the newer blackline seats and Audi seats are powered using the 3 stage heated seat switches. To summarise, if I get a PFL kufatec loom for heated seat/electric seat and 5 stage heated seat switches and 2008-2015 B8 A4/A3 S line electrically adjustable and heated seats or even S4/S5 seats, will it work or are the connectors different on the seats? I understand the rest of the coding etc etc. But want to know will it work physically with connectors before I start!

Damn seen the issues you had there on another thread. Thats the reason I'd never get an all in one or a mobile mapper to do the work. My mechanic has done loads of dpf removals and egr deletes and has never had any issues. The typical all in one that does remapping and dpf removal will be doing it on a cost basis-- by which i mean the quicker its done the quicker another customer is in the door. I've also seen the mobile 'Laptop Kids' come out in transits claiming to do this and that and I've seen the results first hand on my mates cars. I do diagnostics myself and coding on VAG cars just not remapping as of yet! Had a mate with a PD105 Jetta that was supposed to be 145bhp mapped and that thing was way over 170bhp atleast! Would sway and burn rubber in 3rd! Saying that she started sh*ting bricks not long after that map (Turbo, injectors etc) and were talking about a bullet proof 06 1.9 TDi engine! Just thought I'd give some input as I read you owned a nice WRX too! But definitely the BMN should pass the smoke/emissions test as its within the Euro 4 which ran until mid 2009 where DPFs were not mandatory. DPFs are mandatory in all vehicles 2009 and upwards under Euro 5. Jack

Ah see it now thanks! My mechanic says he can retain the EGR without having to put in any delete pipes. Dont know how exactly he's doing it but I must contact him about this. The mate I had done it and deleted it but never had any issues but I suppose like you done itll be trial and error! The main reason I'm doing it is as the car doesn't do as many miles but I'm not willing to buy petrol just yet to see how things are going to go with the climate of electric/hybrid vehicles so definitely not going throw 20k/30k at a car and a new regulation comes in destroying the value of it! Plus love diesel torque for lugging large bulk around!

I understand. Was chatting to a few other members who removed their DPFs and blocked the egr but only got an EML and one never even got them remapped after it. The code was for the EGR as you say but no limp mode. Where I live theres very little tuners or good mechanics hence the awkwardness in my situation! I'll be grand once its removed/deleted itll be remapped right away. Thanks for the explanation!

Id say I'm fine anyways. Looked into the configuration of the DPF and the differential pressure sensor will be the only thing affected so that'll cause the EML to come on as it'll notice a low pressure warning due to the lack of a filter but won't affect the power etc. But thanks anyways!

Hey, long story short. Car: 2008 PD170 vRS (BMN) I'm getting the DPF/EGR gutted/blanked as I do very little miles and to perform some preventative maintenance. Not in the market for a petrol just yet. Have a few questions. There's nobody local to me that can do all under one roof. So, ill be getting my local mechanic to do the physical aspect -The removal. Unfortunately, the tuner/remapper is over an hour away from my mechanic. The question is, will the car be OK to drive with everything removed and won't go into limp mode or am I stuck between a rock and hard place? I'm not sure of the symptoms of limp mode but from the stories I heard l'd never make it there if that results. Hopefully someone on here has had something similar or knows the best way to approach my problem! Thanks for any help, it'll be greatly appreciated! Jack

Ah I see. Im learning haha. Whats the hose or is suppose to be loose with this wetting around it?