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Not that anyone is interested, but the wire had frayed and jammed the mechanism. New door card and motor required

Has anyone tried their luck at the Gatwick branch?

A few weeks ago, my passenger electric window (2012 Octy VRS) took a couple of attempts to close; it would drop a few cm, then carry on up. This morning, I wound it down and I heard a grinding noise. Now it's only 70% closed, and won't go any higher (although the motor will still allow it go down) What's the likely cause? I'm about to pull the door card, but am I going to have to drill all the inner panel rivets to see anything of the window regulator?

How did you get on removing the ridiculous intake manifold support bracket? That thing nearly broke me

Random one, but have you done a throttle body alignment in VCDS? I had similar symptoms after a map in a previous VW (TFSI engine though)

The Kenwood manual states it uses SMB, but no mention of male or female. I whipped out my unit to check, as attached. The manual also states it outputs 14v for the DAB. I've heard a few people raving about chinarf store on Ebay, so might give them a go for the cables.

I've read a few Briskoda topics on this subject, but I could still do with a bit of help regarding the cabling. I purchased a used 6R0 035 501 D from eBay, which I've just realised has the black fakra cable missing (annoyingly). So first issue is I need to source a male, black, fakra A connector, as DAB was the main reason for upgrading. Next stop; new cables to my Kenwood head unit. The white fakra for FM is currently plugged in, so I need an additional cable for the DAB, and might as well run GPS too. So...will I need 5-6m of female black fakra to female SMB? (or presumably fakra-fakra with an SMB adapter, in case the HU was returned to OEM). I've heard people mention a 90deg SMB is useful, due to space behind the HU? Then additionally, same legth female blue fakra to male blue fakra, with some sort of adapter to fit the Kenwood below?

Rear view of my door card. Outline of mid range speaker cut out to left of the white section

I was just browsing the catalogue by model. For other parts it lists loads of variations (LHD/RHD, VRS only, cars without a sound system etc etc) so it doesn't seem limited by spec.

I've been doing some groundwork before fitting some stereo upgrades to my Octavia. I figure I can do 8" components, but then I noticed the rear of the doorcard has mounts for a mid-range speaker. However, the trim on the front just flies right over the area. I'm sure I could cut it open, but I'm not skilled enough to make it look it hadn't been butchered! Looking at the parts catalogue, there's reference to a different door-card, but the part number isn't listed. Anyone know why VW would show it but not list a part ID? It's #2 below:

So I answered my own question, if anyone is interested. Found some speaker rings in the shed that I didn't get round to fitting to my old Jetta. Dropped the door card on loose and it looked fine. Not sure on clearance to the speaker surround, but easily fixable by making the rings a bit thinner.

Does anyone know if you can fit 20cm (or 8") door speakers to an Octaiva Mk2 without issues? I can see 20cm adapter rings for the Fabia, as well as Golf and A3, but I know the mounting locations aren't always identical.

If you only want a 10", could you get one of those ebay boxes that moulds into the side recess of the boot? Might reduce the need to remove it. If you're going to amp the door speakers, presumably you're willing to run speaker cables to them from the boot? If so, you might as well run a power cable from the battery to the boot while all the trim panels are off.

So seeing as my original feedback on AliExpress has vanished, here's a warning to you guys and girls...don't buy this ****ty rear view camera! https://a.aliexpress.com/_UaIs6 Fair enough it's cheap, but I've now had 2 that have lasted 10 months each. No outward signs of any issue, so presumably water has got inside it and wrecked the internals.

I can't speak for the NW, but I paid about £1k for top and bottom chains, tensioner, all the guides etc in the SW.

Quote was £900 or so from VW specialist, but went over £1000 after inspection of wear to guides etc

So, the saga is over... The garage say they ordered 50mm struts in, but found they were actually too small. They still claim whatever check they did on part numbers told them it would be 50mm, so dunno where they got that info from. I told them Skoda informed it was 55mm using my VIN, but presumably they knew best. They say they had grind a load of crud off of the carriers to get the struts to fit. Is it possible the Bilstein are marginally larger than OEM? Either way, the car is back and I'm only a couple of hours of garage labour poorer. And possibly looking for a new VW specialist to use in future!

I'm screwed as I don't really have the time to demand they give the car back to me, investigate it myself, book an MOT elsewhere etc etc as I'd have no way to get to work. Frustratingly I've binned the original struts, nor did I take any photos of the part number beforehand to enable me to confirm diameter.

Rang Skoda, ran the VIN and reg and their system says 55mm. Rang the garage, they're adamant they're 50mm and I've basically over-spread the hub carrier and forced the 55mm strut in. Literally FML.

Dropped the car to the garage for the MOT...they called me back a few minutes later to tell me I should have got 50mm struts not 55mms 😞 Said I've basically spread the hub out too much and forced them. Surely that shouldn't be possible?! Rang DPM, they said they're not aware of a VRS ever being a 50mm strut. What the hell is going on?

It's definitely clear of the tab. I was side kicking the crap out of it in frustration, but admittedly while it was under load as opposed to with a mind to timing it right

Video below (before i added the 2nd spreader at the bottom)

I'm fully pulling my hair out over this now 😤 MOT is Friday and currently no idea how to get the pinch bolt back on. I've got 2 spreaders in there, and the strut slides freely up and down, expect for the last part. It just stops dead with the top of the fin half obscuring the bolt hole. I've tried twisting the fin to either side of the slot, no change. Sprayed Plusgas in from the top, which is tracking down the gap to the bottom no problem. WTF can it be?!

I've been wrestling with fitting Bilstein B4s all weekend, and finally got to a stage where I was 95% finished. However, I can't get the strut body to slide the last 15mm or so into the hub, which means the positioning tab is in the way of refitting the pinch bolt. The strut spreader worked fine for removing them and for the rest of the re-fitting. I had the jack under the lower arm to the point the car was off the axle stands, but still nothing. I've driven the car 100yds down the road, but no movement. I can't figure out what's stopping them from sliding home?

Any update on this @pete h?