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Rjg

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    Bristol

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    2012 Octavia VRS DSG

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  1. Not that anyone is interested, but the wire had frayed and jammed the mechanism. New door card and motor required
  2. A few weeks ago, my passenger electric window (2012 Octy VRS) took a couple of attempts to close; it would drop a few cm, then carry on up. This morning, I wound it down and I heard a grinding noise. Now it's only 70% closed, and won't go any higher (although the motor will still allow it go down) What's the likely cause? I'm about to pull the door card, but am I going to have to drill all the inner panel rivets to see anything of the window regulator?
  3. How did you get on removing the ridiculous intake manifold support bracket? That thing nearly broke me
  4. Random one, but have you done a throttle body alignment in VCDS? I had similar symptoms after a map in a previous VW (TFSI engine though)
  5. The Kenwood manual states it uses SMB, but no mention of male or female. I whipped out my unit to check, as attached. The manual also states it outputs 14v for the DAB. I've heard a few people raving about chinarf store on Ebay, so might give them a go for the cables.
  6. I've read a few Briskoda topics on this subject, but I could still do with a bit of help regarding the cabling. I purchased a used 6R0 035 501 D from eBay, which I've just realised has the black fakra cable missing (annoyingly). So first issue is I need to source a male, black, fakra A connector, as DAB was the main reason for upgrading. Next stop; new cables to my Kenwood head unit. The white fakra for FM is currently plugged in, so I need an additional cable for the DAB, and might as well run GPS too. So...will I need 5-6m of female black fakra to female SMB? (or presumably fakra-fakra with an SMB adapter, in case the HU was returned to OEM). I've heard people mention a 90deg SMB is useful, due to space behind the HU? Then additionally, same legth female blue fakra to male blue fakra, with some sort of adapter to fit the Kenwood below?
  7. Rear view of my door card. Outline of mid range speaker cut out to left of the white section
  8. I was just browsing the catalogue by model. For other parts it lists loads of variations (LHD/RHD, VRS only, cars without a sound system etc etc) so it doesn't seem limited by spec.
  9. I've been doing some groundwork before fitting some stereo upgrades to my Octavia. I figure I can do 8" components, but then I noticed the rear of the doorcard has mounts for a mid-range speaker. However, the trim on the front just flies right over the area. I'm sure I could cut it open, but I'm not skilled enough to make it look it hadn't been butchered! Looking at the parts catalogue, there's reference to a different door-card, but the part number isn't listed. Anyone know why VW would show it but not list a part ID? It's #2 below:
  10. So I answered my own question, if anyone is interested. Found some speaker rings in the shed that I didn't get round to fitting to my old Jetta. Dropped the door card on loose and it looked fine. Not sure on clearance to the speaker surround, but easily fixable by making the rings a bit thinner.
  11. Does anyone know if you can fit 20cm (or 8") door speakers to an Octaiva Mk2 without issues? I can see 20cm adapter rings for the Fabia, as well as Golf and A3, but I know the mounting locations aren't always identical.
  12. If you only want a 10", could you get one of those ebay boxes that moulds into the side recess of the boot? Might reduce the need to remove it. If you're going to amp the door speakers, presumably you're willing to run speaker cables to them from the boot? If so, you might as well run a power cable from the battery to the boot while all the trim panels are off.
  13. So seeing as my original feedback on AliExpress has vanished, here's a warning to you guys and girls...don't buy this ****ty rear view camera! https://a.aliexpress.com/_UaIs6 Fair enough it's cheap, but I've now had 2 that have lasted 10 months each. No outward signs of any issue, so presumably water has got inside it and wrecked the internals.
  14. I can't speak for the NW, but I paid about £1k for top and bottom chains, tensioner, all the guides etc in the SW.
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