chrisund123

I had this, while having a small spate of electrical gremlins. Replaced the battery (which was totally knackered) and cleaned up all the earth points in the engine bay, and it's working just fine now.

My 2010 2.0 BKD with DSG is 16 years old, 123,000 miles and shows no signs of stopping. Worst thing I've had to replace has been the turbo, the gearbox has been great. I did hear bad things about the DSG, but also heard if it gets last 50,000 miles they tend to last quite well. Mines is by far the best car I've ever owned, and is in much better condition than the car it replaced at the same age - I scrapped the old one, the Skoda has years left in her yet.

So I had about a month trouble free with nice stable voltage, then last week I saw the volts wobbling on my Android head unit, and then the fan started running again with a cold engine... I took some inspiration from this thread: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/459234-p01598-error-code-and-random-high-idle-solved/ and ran a couple of earth's from the alternator, one to the battery and a new one to bolt on the driver's side. Problem is gone (for now at least). Must be a problem with the main engine/gearbox earth, but for the life of me I'm not sure what! No way I'm ripping out the battery and air box to get to it again, but I'll take another look when I'm next in that area (dsg oil change is next year).

Today I ripped into it - took out the air filter box, battery, ECU and both headlights. Then, armed with some 120 grit aluminium oxide paper and a wire brush, I shined up all the earth points I could find (two on the bulkhead by the battery, the gearbox/chassis earths, and one under each headlamp). I also shined up all the fuses and relay in the engine bay fusebox. I inspected the ECU and wiring for signs of corrosion and damage, no smoking gun - the ECU connections looked pristine, and I measured the earth connections with a multimeter. The earth points all looked "ok" - no obvious problems, but they did all look like they were 16 years old on a car that had spent every single day outside I suppose! I was bit annoyed that I hadn't found an obvious answer, but after re-assembling I drove it to my girlfriend's and back and the problem hasn't reared its head. Also, the voltage readout on my android head unit was a lot more stable than it had been previously. I won't call it fixed just yet, but it looks like it was worth doing!

Ok, so I've done a few scans and I've got the code 01598 - drive battery voltage 011 open circuit - intermittent. Apparently this can cause the fan on/high idle I'm seeing. Putting the code into Google brings up a lot of info about bad earths and dead batteries. I actually changed the battery last month and I shined up the main battery earth while I was at it so that's ok, but the little wire beneath it is apparently the ECU earth point so will give that a good cleaning along with any others that I can find.

My 2010 Octavia BKD has developed a strange issue when the fan sometimes runs and the engine idles at 1100 RPM even if the engine isn't particularly warm. No DPF, so it's not doing a regen. Aircon is off. Checked the codes in VCDS, nothing coolant temperature related Coolant flow and return values in VCDS were about 75 and 55 respectively last time it happened. Temp gauge is working normally. Happens seemingly at random, it's been occurring for a couple of months in not particularly hot weather (I'm in the UK) so there should be no need for the fan to come on with the journeys I'm doing and temperatures the car is reaching. Any clues?

I gave up trying to fix the leak into my boot, and drilled a small hole into each of the plastic plugs in the spare wheel well. This way it can all drain out no matter what way the car is leaning. If I can't stop it getting in, I can at least make sure it can all get out!

I recored mine a couple of years ago, the tips of the turbine were sheared off when I took it out! I had a good shake of the cat to see where they had gone but nothing came out, absolutely no sign of them. Yours is clearly a bit worse state, on replacement I'd be running the engine for a few moments with the oil return disconnected to make sure there's a steady stream of lubricant evident flowing through the turbo.

I've had to replace two parts of the cooling system due to failures on my BKD: The header tank had perished on one side where the sunshine was getting in under the bonnet and UV attacked the plastic. Replacement cost about £15 from ECP. The other was a bigger job, it was the radiator that was leaking!

I got mine done by a place called cartronix https://cartronix.co.uk/ Not affiliated in any way, they just happened to be local and turned it around the same day.

I hear it's under the scuttle panel somewhere, I'm waiting until I have cause to get in there though - not taking it apart just to get to the air quality sensor that may or may not be in there lol

So my Aircon works fine - blows nice and cold... But not straight away. If you turn it on when the car is started, it doesn't do anything. Drive for a few minutes and have another go, and it works great. What can cause that? I do have another odd Aircon issues actually, when driving at a fairly quick pace (say 40mph plus?) and slow down for traffic lights etc, it blows warm air for a second or two then back to cold again. Possibly related?

Which one did you buy exactly? I've got an android head unit but it's a few years old now and kinda showing its age so I'm thinking about an upgrade!

I've changed the battery twice on my MK2, and had it disconnected many other times - no serious damage has occurred!!

I've got a sweaty offside headlamp, I have brought it inside and dried it out before but it's just got damp again. I think I'm going to dry it out again, and blow into it while spraying the joint with some soapy water to see where the moisture is sneaking in, then try and seal it with some silicon sealer.