chrisund123

I had a whiny turbo on my BKD when I got it, and often ended up with overboost limp mode. I did the Mr muscle treatment on it a few times and it seemed to help, kept things working for about 12 months at a time I suppose. In the end it didn't seem to be helping any more and I decided enough was enough and that I'd give it a DIY refurb. Turns out the tips of the turbine blades had all sheared off and chewed up the VNT vanes, which was probably why it was sticking... All better now

Winning! Glad to be of service

2010 FL L&K with MFSW: ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Address 16: Steering wheel Labels: 1K0-953-549-MY9.lbl Part No SW: 1K0 953 549 CD HW: 1K0 953 549 CD Component: J0527 056 0111 Coding: 0001532 Shop #: WSC 73430 790 00000 VCID: 76E43D9A015C7DF1C3-8022 Subsystem 1 - Part No: 3T0 959 537 Labels: 3C8-959-537.CLB Component: E221__MFL-URO H07 0012 Coding: 00000128 Shop #: WSC 00000 No fault code found. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Also: ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Address 44: Steering Assist Labels: 1K0-909-14x-GEN3.clb Part No: 1K0 909 144 J Component: EPS_ZFLS Kl. 69 3001 Revision: 00H17000 Shop #: WSC 73430 790 00000 VCID: 316ECE86A8B21AC956-8064 No fault code found. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Hope that's useful!

I paid £150, the place I took it to was called Cartronix. They actually repaired my unit rather than giving me a replacement. Here's another thread on the subject with some more details:

I think it was a faulty LED somewhere, I'm a keen DIYer usually and did go over it with a multimeter and couldn't find the issue.

Mine did this, I ended up taking it to a dash repair place (luckily had one local to me) and they fixed it.

So I decided to do a DIY rebuild my turbo. And now I have issues. Stupid of me to expect anything else, I know, but I'm a competent DIY'er and have a a good range of tools... Anyways, the issue is that from idle, it has no boost. If you pootle along off boost it drives fine and the DSG shifts up the gears, but if you want to make some quicker progress, then the revs just climb, no power, smoke/unburned fuel out the back. But, if you let off the pedal slightly then push it again, it boosts like an absolute champ and then drives totally normally. Any idea what could be causing such odd behaviour? It's had new VNT mechanism, which was free to move when I reassembled the turbo. The core is a Melett unit, which seems to be well thought of.

I swapped mine out on my hatchback a few months back, there trim comes off fairly easily - googling it brought up plenty of info. Maybe get a few trim clips before you start though, they do bend out of shape and break quite easily. Most difficult bit seemed to be getting the wiper arm off, eventually I used a small 3 leg puller with the nut upside down a few threads on. Also the motor doesn't operate with the boot open, that caused a small amount of confusion when I was testing before reassembly!

Not sure if it helps, but I've got puddle lights on my 2010 L&K and have this: Address 42: Door Elect, Driver Labels: 1K0-959-701-MAX3.clb Part No SW: 1T0 959 701 AA HW: 1T0 959 701 AA Component: Tuer-SG 009 2114 Coding: 0005118 Shop #: WSC 73430 790 00000 VCID: 76E43D9A015C7DF1C3-8022 No fault code found.

Car has had a whiny turbo since I got it 7 years ago, and the usual sticky VNT vanes issues. Whining has gotten worse lately and the sticky vanes no longer seemed to respond to the oven cleaner trick, so I decided now's the time for a nice new CHRA core and a manual clean of the vanes. A break in the weather has arrived, so after a morning of swearing under the car I got the manifold out and separated the turbo housing to be greeted with this: Chewed exhaust turbine. Mangled VNT vanes. Pitted housing. I was only expecting to replace the core 😂 I gave the catalytic converter a shake and no debris fell out, so I've no idea where the FOD has got to!

I dropped one into my late 2009 Octavia L&K, I don't use it much these days and never had any issues with battery running low.

Sounds like the garage saw her coming... Yes, I know a skilled mechanic charges for the years of training and experience they've built up, the garage has overheads/rent/electricity/wages etc to pay, markup on the parts etc... But £50 for a single bulb change is just plain wrong if it wasn't quoted for and agreed beforehand.

I had a similar issue recently, ended up taking my cluster for a repair which fixed the problem.

As an update for my contribution, I ended up taking my cluster to a repair specialist who happened to be reasonably close by. Paid £150, I asked the lady on reception what the fault was and she said they'd replaced a warning light LED. No idea if that's 100% all they did as I did check out all the LEDs with a multimeter and a 1.5v battery and it all *seemed* to check out OK, but then again they're the specialists so perhaps they have better diagnostic equipment than me. Anyway, to my amazement they turned it around the same day, I've just put it back in the car and would you believe it the faults are gone. https://cartronix.co.uk/ is the place I used, not affiliated in any way but they fixed my particular problem in quick time and they do a mail in service as well (but costs more).

Ha, I've had the dreaded dash squeak/rattle from the nearside, which thankfully I managed to sort, and a squeak coming from the boot which I'm yet to tackle... For the dash, I found buying a box of fibre washers from Screwfix and putting them between all the dash panels and screws finally stopped the issue.