McGyles

And you drive with what? Measily 15bar ? Yeah my bad forget to use "," hehehe :P Meant 2,8 2,4-2,5 :P Thx for spotting :P

The 2nd row seats are removable on the new Škoda Karoq. Don't know why you would need this though, the space you get doing this is limited and the removable seats aren't as stable as static ones. The Peugeot 5008 has removable 3rd row seats. The interior is nice but you can only get it front wheel drive and when a car has inbuilt function, that plays you the engine sounds of race cars when you drive, to mute the sound of the cars built-in engine you kinda lose confidence in their engineering department.

Here the dealer recomends that the proximity range should be set to medium, because if set to maximum it might over-react when someone cuts you off.

All engines require a run-in period. Because people think modern engines don't, they overstress the engine when new and it requires oil fill ups between services later on. That's why it's considered "normal" by dealers and won't be fixed under warranty if your engine starts drinking 2L of oil between services. More than that indicates a serious issue, but after a proper run-in it shouldn't need oil topping between services. Only select high performance engines have a factory run-in procedure. It wouldn't be bad to read the manual.... Here it is explained BUT he is only partly right, because combination of modern engine tolarances AND improper engine break-in lead to increase oil consumption! (Those who buy Holden/Opel don't read manuals either)

"Run in engine During the first 1,500 km, the driving manner determines the quality of the running in process on a new engine. During the first 1,000 km, the engine should not be charged with more than 3/4 of the maximum permitted engine revs and without the trailer. In the area of 1,000 to 1,500 kilometres, the engine load can be increased up to the maximum permitted engine speed." Škoda Kodiaq manual, page 211. Good running-in will reduce engine oil consumption and increase fuel effieciency.

https://www.driving.co.uk/car-reviews/clarkson/clarkson-review-skoda-kodiaq/ This is what i think happened to Clarkson. He was driving in ECO mode the entire time because he didn't know that turning off STOP/START function automaticly puts you in eco mode. And you know he turned that off :P Because the 2.0 TDI is quite brisk and the 2.0 TSI is even briskier. "So you put your foot down a bit more and the sensors get busy once again before deciding that moving off would cause someone to have bronchitis. So you mash your foot into the firewall, which causes the sensors to think, “OK. He really wants to move, so I’ll select seventh gear, which means it’s all done nice and slowly and with minimal damage to Mother Nature.” " - ECO mode-> constantly shifting into 7th gear, needs kick-down to move, in example you need to press the throttle realy hard

There is mechanical difference between the 150PS and 190PS 2.0 TDI engine. 1. The turbo is smaller on the 150PS, requires less RPM to spool (190 fully spools at about 1800RPM - dyno results) this also means the engine gets louder faster (at lower RPM). 2. Injectors are larger on the 190PS along with the railing and a bigger fuel pump. Some say that you can get almost 190PS out of 150PS with a remap and about 225PS out of 190PS. I am very sceptical about this because i haven't yet seen a before/after dyno of a plug-in remap, that increases 30HP. The most i have seen is 10-15HP in specialist garages that costs about 500euro to set up, which you don't notice and stresses the engine more than factory settings, aswell as nulifies the warranty. All of the plug-in remaps you can buy on amazon or ebay are more a placebo than actualy do anything. If someone has done a remap and claims they have 20% more engine power, withouth using any mechanical tweeks (bigger fuel pump, fuel leads, air filter, cooler, injectors, etc.), i would realy want to see a before/after dyno test.

Nope. Although on the video "she is kicking the car", touching the car is not required. "Depending on equipment the boot lid can be operated without contact." "To open/close, move one foot in the sensor area below the rear bumper quickly in the direction of the arrow » Fig. 46. The brake light in the rear window illuminates and the lid opens/closes automatically. An acoustic signal is sounded when opening/closing the lid. If the lid does not move, then repeat the operating process after a few seconds. The lid movement can be stopped by a rapid swinging of the foot. Swinging the foot again will continue the lid movement." Škoda Kodiaq manual, page 60.

I have a few comments on your review: 1. Battery cover: Normaly they have a "plush" cover, from the material the case is on your picture, but here it has been removed. This is normal on test cars, due to many "testers" test the cars electronics with engine off and can deplete the battery and removing the cover makes the replacement/recharge easier. I personaly don't see the need for a battery case, when the battery is located in the engine bay. It's only in the way when you want to replace/recharge the battery or require some work done on the engine, which requires removal of the battery. 2. 360deg view: In my personal opinion this is more a fancy toy than a must have option. The combination of front+rear sensors and a rear view camera (SUV rear visibility is abysmal, due to small rear window and high bumpers) is more than sufficient. 3. ACC: Here and in many countrys ACC to 160km/h is standard on high spec models (210km/h is optional), aswell as all around parking sensors and heated washer nozzles ammong other things. We don't get the standard 7 seats in any configuration though, which i think is better, because those who want those extra 2 seats can add them as extras, or leather seats for that matter. The standard specs are determined by each countrys general Škoda importer and distributer on sale statistics of previous models. 4. Kodiaq vs Superb: Superb in general is more stylish on the interior because it goes against the likes of MB E-class and BMW 5-series bussines classes, while Kodiaq targets at family cars from Hyundai Santa Fe and Kia Sorento to Nissan X-Trail, Honda CR-V and even Land Rover Discovery Sport for alot less price. Tell me, would you buy a Škoda, if it was similar priced as a Audi Q5, BMW x3, MB GLC or Land Rover Disco? Offcourse not and Škoda knows it. Frankly i'm surprised they put out a SUV this size that costs the same as a sedan (Superb). This is a family car and most of the time, children will be seating in the back seats and those "cheap" hard plastics are actualy easier to clean than soft ones and you can hardly notice them. On the other hand, how much more expensive would it have been to put soft plastics there? Probabaly not much, it's probably a relic from the Tiguan. 5. Rust spots: Have you gone over them with your finger, because they look alot like dirt rather than rust. If you look very closely into the white triangle reflection in the left corner, you can see the pattern continues down to the paint (same picture). After wash/rain water droplets eveporate and leave a circular patern of dirt behind, that's why you need to polish your chrome for it to shine (after wash/rain with a clean cloth, here and there with a special low abrasive paste for hand polishing - not maschine!). And the car was recently washed in a hurry or left in the rain (see plastic trims on the bottom of the door). Looking at your pictures the car wasn't very clean to begin with and if this car was on the VIP event than organisers should be ashamed to bring a car like that. It should be spotless! If you went over the chrome with a piece of cloth or your finger and the spots didn't "rub off" and felt coarse, that this is rust and like you said unacceptable! Especialy for a VIP event. In my opinion, this is just dirt, same as on the plastic/rubber trim on the bottom of the doors and if the dealer told you it's rust shows how qualified the dealers actualy are. 6. Steering noise and my test drive: It's a fault, shouldn't be there. My test drive: I went on a long test drive incorporating city driving, highway and a little off-tarmac driving with lots of holes and bumps before i ordered mine. Was about 2-3 hours of driving and about 60km covered. No DCC, 18" wheels, 2.0 TDI 190 4x4 DSG (Style, which is between SEL and Edition). 10% slow driving off-tarmac, 50% city driving (start/stops, up to 50km/h), 40% highways (up to 150km/h). Fuel consumption at about 7L/100km. This is normal driving (relaxed in city and agressive when overtaking). Could be lover after break-in period (car only had about 800km on the clock) and higher with aggresive driving in sport mode. It was very smooth over bumps, very quiet apart from wind noise on the highways going faster than 130km/h. Engine was silent, on idle didn't even know it was on when talking to a friend in the car (radio off), very quiet until 2500-3000 RPM engine speed, nice roar on high revs. Dislike the START/STOP function so turned it off after a while, otherwise very smooth functionality. BE WARNED, ECO MODE! In eco mode the throttle response is non to speak off. You need to put the pedal to the metal for it to move and that it goes into kick down and back to 7th gear to cruise. It constantly shifts between 7th gear and 3rd in city. AVOID ECO MODE! In city driving will always kick down and reaction time is slow while on the highway you can't coast due to the wind resistance of the car slows it down considerably, unless descending down a steep hill. Use normal mode, because leaving it in sports mode you will never get to use the 7th gear ,won't be quiet and the fuel consumption will get close to 9l/100km. ONE MORE THING! If you turn off START/STOP manualy with the button, the car goes automaticly into ECO MODE. You need to select normal mode after you turn off START/STOP (car manual page 250 /eco mode). To avoid this, on DSG transmission, only LIGHTLY press the brake pedal with START/STOP function ON and the car WILL NOT TURN OFF. You can also leave the seatbelt un-fastened, but that is unadvisible due to safety reasons. Steering was quiet at low speeds even over bumps and very smooth (almost too smooth, very little feedback) so that's a problem on the test car, because the first test cars on Mallorca had a servo "squek" on max turn which is a fault and was fixed. Didn't even try sport mode because it's a 2t SUV with a 2.0L engine, nothing sporty about that. Transmission is very smooth even in city, when you get used to the fact that DSG drives differently than a slush-box. The Haldex coupling does the job very well at predicting wheel slip, i didn't notice any wheel slip even when accelerating agresivly from stop on a slipery surface. Full LED lights are fantastic and they turn on in highway iluminated tunels very precisly. Didn't have the chance to try them in actual nighttime though. The on-board computer is very fast and very reactive. The Canton sound system is very good. Tried the Amundsen navigation and it's quite accurate, smooth and nice to use. And even though the car doesn't have VW digital cockpit, the MaxiDOT displays all relevant information when using navigation, like where to turn, when to turn and in which lane you need to position yourself more than 200m up front on bigger crossroads, which i think is realy nice. Now that i look back on my post, looks less than 50cents and more like 5 bucks worth :p Text-ammount wise :P

It has been reported that 19" are a little on the harsh side withouth DCC, although that with the tyre pressure is funny. Tyres max inflation is at 28bar (says right there on the rubber, might vary though between different manufacturers/models), keep them between 24-25 bar at room temp (cca 20 degC) for optimal use, that's my experience.

Do not wave, it requires a kick, David Beckam style (not Rooney!), should work every time. If not, report to the dealer to fix it in warranty.