McGyles

Hello, I have opened this topic to describe my long term ownership experience with KODIAQ and to entice other bear owners to do the same to assist potential buyers. I have a 2018 Škoda KODIAQ 2.0 TDI 190 PS DSG 4x4 Style version; currently 95.000 km on the clock: - the car came with squeaky door handles with noticible gap between the door handle and the door panel from new; reported it to the dealer; had it changed 3 times during warranty, some improvement on the gap the noise hovever is still present (common problem; tried contacting Škoda customer support directly - no response) - after 2 years of ownership the door locking mechanism on the drivers side door had to be replaced because it stopped working -> covered by warranty - at the 60.000 km service the dealer noticed corrosion on the rear brake callipers (not wear!) and they had to be replaced -> not covered by warranty - after 3 years of ownership the relay of the glow-plug for the ignition pre-heat had to be replaced (dealer spotted the problem during a routine 90.000 km service) -> covered by warranty - now at 95.000 km I have a gearbox mechatronics unit fault - waitting for a replacement part (DSG oil change was performed as scheduled; all services performed at the Škoda dealer every 15.000 km) -> covered by warranty My long term fuel economy is 7.0L/100km and can range from 5,8L/100km on country roads to 8,7L/100km on highway with aggressive driving at 180km/h. I am satisfied with the LED lights, the 4X4 HALDEX unit and the car comfort in general, what I did not expect was so many problems, which makes me wonder what comes next....

Put it from D into S -> problem solved. EDIT: have a 190PS myself and i just can't drive in D in most situations, i can feel the engine struggling and feeling the strain on the DMF. Driving in S tranny mode (not MODE mode!) all the time, the pedal response is sharper, the revs never drop low enough for the engine to struggle and if it keeps a gear for too long a flip the higher gear on the pedals and leave it to change back to S.

Yes because TJA combines DSG+LS+ACC, if you have all those systems you have TJA. TJA is a disabled limitation on LS, making LS functional at lower speeds (under 60km/h). Theoreticly you could turn TJA on on VCDS if you have LS.

Did you check the Kodiaq door handles, they creek too, hoping for a BY19 redisign. No rattles though (knock on wood). Yeah getting petrol will be a challange if you don't mind waitting for you car a bit longer. The full LED lights are a must-have. Amundsen vs Columbus choice of navigation -> go for amundsen. It's cheaper and offers the same basic features/size + you have buttons! There are few features columbus has but you have to deicde are they worth the price difference.

Waste of money if you don't have the sportline with the painted lower trim. Even than you should consider carefuly because you need to cut into plastic trim to fit them. Cutting into the plastic means they were never fully incorporated into the design and never properly tested (like the door handles/trim). It's just asking for trouble in the long run.

April 1st..... or at least it should be There is only one Range Rover and thats THE RANGE ROVER, all others are cheap replicas (yes cheap compared to the original giant of reliability) EDIT: full size rangy not some evoque or sport or cabrio s***

TJA just means that LS works under 60km/h. All cars with LS, ACC and DSG have TJA. - ACC in my opinion is realy nice, you can use it in congestions and city traffic because it moves your car from standstill and keeps the range very nicely on the highway at all speeds - LS is so-so becuase the steering is so soft that i have my hands on the steering wheel and it starts beeping "put your hands on the steering wheel", works best on the highway, not so much on B roads due to resistance when crossing the line - TJA is nice in theory but not so much in practice, due to the fact that you must keep your hands on the steering wheel at all times and because of the light steering it starts to beep even if you have them on (same as LS) - Park-Assist is perfect for parallel parking but it's more for show because of the user interface for selecting other kind of parking, still haven't mastered it sometimes it spots a parking space sometimes not, but when it does it parks perfectly - electric seats are a waste of money if the car is driven by 1 driver all the time due to the ammount of space, while it's a must have if you share your car with your better half - leather is a personal opinion, it cleans better than fabric but with leather you NEED heated/ventilated seats, but with those options + electric seats the price goes up alot - go for DSG it's realy realy good, especialy because it downshifts automaticly when braking/hill to engine brake, smooth shifts and the 7th speed means lower fuel consumption on the highway - no point in buying an SUV and skimping on the 4x4, it realy improves the driving experience and road stability on dry/wet/snow - go for the top 2 190/180 PS engines (TSI or TDI) it's a big heavy car - buy a superb/octavia if you don't need an SUV -> better fuel economy, lower maintance costs, lower registration fee's, you can get more luxuries for the same price, better handling, the 1.4/1.5 TSI is a realy good option there

I drive alot in northern Italy, Austria, Croatia and BiH too. In Slovenia, Italy and Austria you can drive quite fast you just need to know where the standard control points are so cruising at 140km/h is normal and pushing it to 160km/h is nothing unordinary. In Croatia i feel the most at ease at pushing my cars over 220km/h regurarly due to lack of traffic control on certain stretches and low fines. In BiH you drive over 100km/ on normal B roads because you can "negotiate" your fine. I know you have different speed limits, that's why i added the MPG depending on the speed, from my observation of the engines depending on my driving style. If you check the german forum you will see that everyone is taking either the 2.0TDI 190 or the 2.0TSI 180 due to the fact that in germany you can legaly drive realy fast and they have one of the safest road networks in the world.

It's all about the speed. If you drive arround town at 60km/h both engines will drink virtualy the same (the 1.4 petrol will have a bit better fuel economy). Once you hit motorway speeds arround 100km/h the 190PS diesel will start to shine and you will see the same consumption as in town arround 45 MPG, while the petrol economy will drop from 46MPG in town to 42 MPG. If cruising on highway from 140km/h to 160km/h the diesel will do 40MPG, while the petrol will do arround 35MPG. For town, short trips and highway cruising at 100km/h pick the petrol. For longer trips, higher speeds and driving fully loaded pick the diesel. I have a 2.0TDI 190PS and have avg fuel consumption at 40MPG and mostly drive in S mode. I do alot of highway cruising at 140km/h and drive quite fast on B roads over hilly terrain and there even the 190PS feels a bit underpowered sometimes when overtaking up a hill, but you have to understand that the 190PS has a bigger turbo which fully spools at higher RPM (arround 1700-1800 compared to 1400-1500 of the 150PS versions), so under those RPM there is a bit of lag which there isn't on the 150PS diesel/petrol engines, but the 190PS starts to shine above 1800RPM and puls realy nicely. Even when overtaking on the highway you can leave it in 7th gear, if above 1800RPM. It all depends on your driving style, but if your are going to do alot of miles with 3+ people and their luggage the diesel is the way to go, or the 2.0TSI, but that one drinks alot above 100km/h.

If you need additional ground clearance go for it, it's realy nice, while if only need it for driving on normal paved roads just take the new superb, it handles better on the road in general because lower centre of gravity, is more quiet at speeds because it's not an SUV, lower fuel consumption because it's not an SUV and you can get more powerful engines, because the 2.0TDI 190PS is only okay with a turbo-lag under 1700RPM, the 150PS doesn't have this but you notice the lack of power in the higher rev range (2000+ RPM) where the 190PS starts to shine. I would have gone with the S3 with 280PS if i didn't need the extra ground clerance to access my country home.

If you check the car specifications (driver side door frame/fuel flap), for 18" and 19" it's 2,8 - 3.0 bar. Was actualy surprised because i normaly pump my other cars till 2.5 bar. The 225/55/R18 pirelli tyres that came with the car were at 2,8 bar. - check the seat fabric for tears where there are plastic inserts (ISOFIX, seatbelts, etc) - check the piano black finish interior and exterior paint for scratches - check the chrome arround the windows for corrosion - check all 4 door handles for gaps between door trim and door side - check the infotainment for any problems when you start the car (car->car status) - check the windows for cracks (especialy the front windshield, should be cleat so easily spoted) - check if they filled it up for you (they don't but you can say "whats 50 bucks for you, you getting 7000 for selling me this car anyway!", this works if you're old and grumpy and the salesperson is young) MOST IMPORTANTLY, take your time no need to rush. If they rush you, than you know they are trying to hide something.

I drove a car with canton at the dealer and have bought one withouth. There is no noise cancelation, the wind noise is there at higher speeds but it's the same as in the Tiguan. The tire noise depends on tarmac quality and tyre profile. You shouldn't go above 68dB tyre ratings on summer tyres and 72dB on winter. The new Tuareg has a little better noise insulation but not much, you have to go Audi or MB for realy luxury quiet cars.

I believe the phone box is the same module in all cars, the ones that drive on the RIGHT side of the road and the ones that drive on the WRONG side :P

In my book a full size spare is a must have on a car of this size, so didn't pick canton. I am actualy realy satisfied with the stock system, not as good as Infinity sound system like i had before, but much better than stock on other cars.

Check the design of the Tiguan handles and that Kodiaq. You will see that the creaking problem is due to the fact they are from 2 piece plastic on the bear. In my car on the passanger door the handle came slightly appart and on the drivers side there is a slight gap between the entire door trim and side (there from new and noted) all being sorted under warranty. Was actualy surprised at the ammount of pulling the service person did at the door handles and they looked solid, even though they creack and have slight gaps, so what we are experiencing is purely cosmetic. I was reasured that this isn't supposed to be like this and that the door handles and trims should be very solid. Waitting for parts as we speek, while the service person did hint on a high probability of a substantial redisign of the door trims coming in MY2019, so fingers crossed. This is the biggest downside of a very good car in general.

Because you have a petrol engine with no DPF it doesn't matter which 5W-30 oil you gonna put in. I buy oil for my older cars directly from a mixing company which supplies many brands with the same oil at different prices. I can get any oil almost 50% cheaper than when buying from brands like Total, Elf, Castrol, etc. 0w-20 is a lower viscosity oil which means you will get a little better fuel economy but after 50 000 miles or so on the engine you will have to change it for 5w-30 to compensate for the wear (engine will start to drink it more). Aswell as if you push your car realy hard so that the engine oil goes above 90 degC - RADIATOR TEMPERATURE WILL STILL STAY AT 90 degC, YOU HAVE TO CHECK IN THE OIL TEMP MENU !!! (normal operating temperatures are from 85 degC to 115 degC depending on the engine revs) your engine will start to drink more oil. I don't see any benefits from a 0W-20 over 5W-30. Fact is if you plan to keep the car for many years you will have to change the oil to 10W-40 after 150k miles anyway and if you are doing mostly city driving (alot of stop/start situations and warm summer climate) the 0w-20 isn't good for you, aswell as if you are doing highway driving where you maintain revs over 2500 RPM for a long time. Personaly i would stick with the 5w-30. If you want longer service intervals pick a "long-life" oil which has more aditives and is more expensive, but remember city driving isn't the same as highway driving so if you do city driving or you do low miles per year keeping your car mostly parked, you shouldn't do long intervals, it would be best to buy the cheapest 5w-30 and change it once a year or 10 000 miles. If you have regular (short) service intervals it's a waste of money to buy "long-life" oils.

Hey, When getting out of the car in the garage I snagged the door protector with my jacket a bit. Eversince the door refused to fully close, had to slam it shut. Upon examination i have noticed that there is a wider (about a milimeter wider) gap between the metal mechanism and the removable plastic door protector on the door that refuses to close than on the other doors that close normaly. I have fixed the problem without removing the door protectors with this technique: - open the door a bit, just enought to gain access, but not enough for the door protectors to fully deploy - use a small screw-driver or a regular key and put it into the little hole of the metal part of the door protector (there are two holes verticaly alligned), but be careful and put a rag or your finger between the screwdriver/key and the door so you don't scratch the door paint - push on the plastic door protector in the direction of the metal mechanism until you hear a "click" - now you can close the door normaly If the problem returns, put a drop (only a drop!, if you put more you will have trouble removing them in the future if you decide to do so) of super-glue between the metal mechanism and plastic door protector before pushing on the door protectors. This has solved my problem.

First year Kodiaq buyers (up to november 2017) here recieved 4 years additional warranty (altogether up to 6 years with mandatory 2 year warranty) free of charge. You must read what the extended warranty covers because for example faulty interior door trims aren't covered, aswell as oils, brake pads, hoses, burned-out clutch, etc... Plus you need them (any official Škoda dealer) to service the car for the time of the extended warranty to be valid, because for the 2 years mandatory warranty you can have your car serviced elsewhere, but for the extended it needs to be official Škoda place for the entire time you have extended warranty. You should get it depending on the price, if it's cheap (or free like here for last year buyers) take it, but now it's almost 1000€ here. So you pay 1000€ + 100€/year for 6 years more for service at an offcial place that's 1600€. I seriously doubt something that expensive will break that soon, it might probably later if you plan to have ownership for like 8 or 10 years.

I've tested he 2.0 TSI and it's a very nice engine, just expect fuel consumption between 9-11L/100km (30MPG) when driving between 140 and 160km/h on the highway. In the city traffic and up to about 100km/h it's between 6L and 7L/100km (42 MPG). If you plan to do less highway driving it's the best because the DSG keeps the revs low and shifts up quickly. So if you do alot of highway miles don't expect the fuel consumption to drop under 9L/100km (diesel at about 7L/100km). Under 100km/h they have same consumption with the petrol one feeling better to drive (more brisk), petrol being cheaper and not needing SCR and DPF. It all depends on the speed. If you drive faster on the highway like me (arround 160km/h cruising speed) expect between 10L and 11L/100km when on highway (these are NOT MIXED! numbers)

If it was the ABS sensor, you would have the "TYRE INFLATION" warning light too because it's connected to them. Must be something between the sensor and CPU. Hope you get it fixed.

Not accoarding to surveys. Lexus, Toyota, KIA, Hyundai and Škoda top them. MB is near the middle under BMW for the past few years My personal experience with cars: - old VW were very reliable, reliability droped in the past 10 years - used to own few used MB's (E-class, SLK, S-class) and BMW (3,5 and X5), their reliability dropped since 2006 - pre-2004 Jeeps with Crysler petrol engines (6 and 8 cyl) are indestructible, now they are **** - old pre-2000 Renault and FIAT were very reliable, FIAT dropped to the bottom after grandpappy retired, Renault is still good but too pricey for what you get (same as VW) - Peugeot was and still is unreliable (always had problems with them, even from new), heard same about Citroen - old Audis weren't as classy as MB and BMW but were and still are very reliable (more than MB and BMW) Problem with car manufacturers: - to stay ahead they need to develope new tech and don't bother testing it properly (that's why Škoda is the most reliable brand from VAG, because it uses older VW/Audi technology - check the surveys) - Japs and Koreans are ahead at reliability because if you look at their cars they are all outdated (except for Lexus), because they take their time with testing them - FIAT is **** because the CEO is the old owners grandson and he's a bussines-man, that's why he bought all the US companies in 2008 crash and now has trouble allocating funds for engineering new tech - Audi is on a downhill slope (closely following MB) because their mentality is now: "We don't need engineers, we need more economists" which they've said many times out loud by their R&D heads, this is why they are using Renault/Nissan engines and why new MB cars are a flop (GLC in particular) - fool-minded diversification -> luxury brands competing against economy brands (1,2, and 4 series BMW; A and B class MB; A2 and A3 Audi and ALL THE COUPE'S) This is one of the reasons MB ran out of money for car development and just rebadged Clio->A series and Nissan -> X-class and used their long-wheelbase 4-Matic system (GLE and GLS) on their middle-wheelbase cars (GLC) withouth proper modifications. Not to mention that Audi Q7, VW Tuareg and Porsche Cayene are the same cars just sold at different prices and badges, same as Macan being an even more expensive Q5.

I have those rubber mats and they are very good for keeping the car clean, you have 2 options: - the deep ones are excellent for winter, but if you are higher than 185cm you will be able to bump your feet at those edges under the front seats when the seat it's pushed all the way back - shallow ones (haven't tried them, should be good for the entire year, the deeper ones are very nice if you drag alot of snow in and it melts it stays on) I wouldn't go for the sidebars if i were you. The car is realy low and all you will do it knock your feet against it and get your trousers dirty. The sidebars are only good on vehicles with 240+ mm ground clearance.

If you going to fiddle with the washer nozle tell us how it goes.. "rusty brake discs will be braking better than non-rusty discs." - it specificly says IN THE MANUAL, that if your pads are rusty you will have a DECREASED BRAKE PERFORMANCE and that THERE IS A DANGER OF AN ACCIDENT -> just show the cars manual to that person and let him get out of that. I can even see an edge in the groove the pads made, that disc needs to be replaced as a whole when they fix your brakes, not just the calipers and pads.

What's with so many bananas? You a VW engineer.... ? Electric boot lid FTW

The 1.5 TSI will have PPF - petrol particle filter to be "green-er" and needs that extra .1 boost of volume to maintain same engine power output due to exhaust gases slowing down when travelling through this new filter. German engineers have calculated that the most efficient engines are 500ccm/cylinder and that the bore diameter must be smaller than the stroke, that's why all german engines are moving to: 1.5L - 3 cylinder 2.0L - 4 cylinder 2.5L - 5 cylinder 3.0L - 6 cylinder 4.0L - 8 cylinder Now with the 3 cylinder engine there's the problem of unballanced firings and with bigger the engine, the more vibrations it gives out, that's why the 3 cylinder engines are 1.0L - 1.2L. But you still need a gap between and 1.4L 4 cylinder was the gap, and adding more filter elements and comlicated exhaust systems, you need to increase the volume. And with the 1.5L addition, VW can cancel 1.4L AND 1.8L and just make more 1.5L and 2.0L engines, this is than more marketing involved. VW (Audi, VW, Škoda, SEAT) is what it is, but still more reliable than many other car brands like Land Rover, Jaguar, FIAT, Ford, Alfa Romeo, Pegeot, Citroen and now even MB! Must be all that monkey testing they do....