Steamdrivenandy

The car has to go back to the dealership to have its second key programmed, so if I don't get time to fiddle about they should sort it at the same time.

Thanks I'll give that a try.

Hi Lee, that's what I thought too. I've had a look around the washer bottle but I can't see anything loose. Mind it's all a bit tight and difficult to see down there.

The cars just come back from having a new mechatronic box fitted under warranty. The screen washer isn't functioning. At first I thought the garage had maybe forgotten to fill the tank, but it's brimful. With engine off and ignition on there is no sound from the screenwash pump. So it just isn't operating I've looked up the fuse and it is a shared one 'Luggage compartment lock, rear door lock, tank flap lock, headlight cleaning system, front and rear windscreen washer system' Obviously the headlight cleaning isn't working either as that's fed by the same pump but all the lock items are working, so that suggests the fuse is fine. That leaves disconnection somewhere (all looks good from above), busted pump, or would it have been affected by the reprogramming to install the mechatronic box? Any thoughts?

Problem solved, the seat just wasn't back far enough. It flipped up fine once I put it right to the back.

Local dealer wants £130 to reprogramme Mrs SDA's key. Spoke to supplying dealer (Johsons, Wolverhampton) and they'll do it for free. Only trouble is they're an hour and something away and the local dealer is 15 minutes from home.

So how do I get it undeleted?

I can start the car with the key that went with it for the new mechatronic box, but it won't start with the key that was left behind.

It's just the normal keyfob. It's flashing red now that I've put a new battery in it but I've tried all the stuff in the manual and not a peep from the car. As far as I can tell everything else is working fine.

So how can the Mrs keys be programmed as they were in her handbag whilst the car was away having the mechatronix swapped.?

If ordering new it comes with the same towbar system as a Kodiaq and will have trailer assist as part of the package. However having an aftermarket towbar on a used Karoq can be more problematic as it has been with many VAG cars. Some cars cannot have a towbar fitted full stop. They're identified by not having a Train Weight Limit on their VIN plate and any towbar fitter will refuse to fit one as it wouldn't be legal. Other cars have their software locked up and aftermarket fitters can't download the relevant changes, they're harder to spot and generally you'd need a Skoda dealer to check it out for you. I may be wrong but just specifying towbar preparation on a new car doesn't get you trailer assist, it just gets any changes made that are necessary to accomodate towing should you wish to have a towbar fitted later. That later fitting would then include trailer assist software being downloaded.

Yeah I tried it with the central seat in place and swivelled up. I also moved the recalcitrant seat back and forth but no release in any position. I'll have to look at the release mechanism on the nearside to see how it works as the offside must be the same.

I saw it said that after I'd loaded the new battery, so I removed it and pressed a button for the required 5 seconds, then I refitted the battery and it made no difference. I tried the press a button and then manually unlock but that made no difference. The key that went with the car when it had all the work done works fine.

2019 (actually 24th December 2019, almost 2020) 2 litre 190PS DSG 4X4 Edition model. This is our second Karoq with Varioflex and we had a Yeti with it too. We collected the car 4th June and on 26th June the mechatronix went u/s and we've had a loan Kodiaq up until yesterday. We got the Karoq back yesterday Messing about with it just now and the offside seat won't release and tip up. Both the nearside and centre ones release OK. Any thoughts?

2019 (actually 24th December 2019, almost 2020) 2 litre 190PS DSG 4X4 Edition model. I've just got the car back from having a new mechatronix box fitted under warranty. Mrs SDA went to open it with her keys that have been home while the car was away. No flashing red light so a dud fob battery. Replaced battery and remote flashing like a good un. The Karoq didn't want to know. So looked up process for re synchroising and followed it but still the Karoq ignores it. Given Skoda's weird and wonderful directions for these things was I supposed to stand in a bucket of Czech lager, facing east, with one trouser leg rolled up and whistle White Cliffs of Dover or something? What have I done wrong? What have I missed out? Help appreciated

If you're buying new go for the factory fit towbar. I've just returned a loan Kodiaq with it and it's great. The 13 pin socket is on the side of the towhook and simple to reach, unlike aftermarket scrabbling around under the bumper. The same goes for the overrun cable, it clips onto a metal loop on the towball. Brilliant bit of kit and trailer assist will be built in.

The 2 litre 190PS Diesel doesn't get any mods for towing prep. I'e seen the Skoda tow prep chart for Karoq. Johnsons Wolverhampton had the towbar fitted. Advice so far is that it's a mechatronix sensor issue. Nothing to do with towing or temperature.

Today I towed with my new to us 190PS 4X4 Diesel DSG Karoq. It's a 2019, almost 2020 on 23,000 miles in Edition trim. About halfway between Stoke and Keswick on an easy section of the M6 it suddenly threw an orange warning saying the gearbox was going into emergency mode but I could still drive the car. I did the rest of the trip without first, third or fifth gear. Later, after the caravan was pitched I moved the car slightly and the warning had disappeared. Apparently the nearest Skoda dealership is 22 miles away in Carlisle and I've got a further 150 mile tow planned for Friday. What's wrong and what should I do? Car has a 2 year Skoda warranty.

Tesla's and Kia's are almost the only BEV's that can pull caravans. Some really, really expensive BEV's can and the Hyundai stablemate of the Kia and some Mercedes and a Volvo but that's about it.

The vehicle maximum weight and train weight limits can be down to a number of factors, brake capacity being one, available power another, cooling capability is yet another and stuctural strength of towbar securing points are two more. The weight limit on a caravan can be allocated for marketing reasons, allowing the weight limit to be increased to te caravans actual axle weight limit upon agreement by the caravan builder. The axle weight limit generally depends on the structural strength of the caravan chassis/axle and the suspensions capacity to handle the weight without damage or distortion.

The point I'm making is that in law your car and trailer cannot weigh more than the train weight limit. Generally that train weight limit is the maximum weight that the car can be, plus the manufacturer's towing limit. However it's fairly rare for a car to be loaded at its maximum and therefore, legally speaking any 'spare' weight on the car's weight limit can legally be used on the trailer. That would, of course, mean that the car's towing limit would be exceeded, but it wouldn't be illegal becausethe train weight limit hadn't been exceeded. In this case Skoda quotes a towing limit for 1in 12 (8%) hills and another for 1 in 8 (12%) hills. The train weight limit that's on the VIN plate is the car's maximum weight plus the 12% towing limit, meaning that the car should be able to pull a trailer weighing the towing limit up a 12% hill. Should you wish to utilise the extra towing amount provided by the 8% limit you need to be aware that Skoda say that the car will pull that weight up an 8% hill and nothing steeper. In opting for the higher towing weight it means the maximum weight of the towcar is reduced by the amount that the trailer weighs over the 8% limit. The principle being that the train weight can never be exceeded. So in an Enyaq you can opt to pull the extra 200kg, provided you realise that: You will be pulling 200kg more than the manufacturer says the car can pull up a hill steeper than 1 in 12 (8%) You might endanger warranty cover if you do tow the heavier weight on a hill steeper than 8%. You must make sure that the Gross Vehicle Weight of the Enyaq is less than the additional weight you are pulling above the 12% limit.

Agreed, but if the problem/damage is consistent with over loading they might refuse to cover the cost. You could try disputing it and good luck with that. From experience they can be obstinate.

I know this is an old topic but the weight situation was never clarified. All UK Skoda's AFAIK know have a tow weight limit for a 12% incline and one for an 8% incline. You will find that if the car is homologated for towing it will have a train weight limit on its VIN plate. If it has no train weight limit it will can never legally tow anything. You will find that where it has a train limit the amount will be the lower of the two weight limits plus the car's gross vehicle weight limit. What you have to remember is that the car plus caravan must never go above the plated train weight. How that weight is made up is immaterial. So, if you're not going to encounter any steep hills you can tow up to the higher tow limit BUT that reduces the gross vehicle weight limit of the tow vehcle by the amount you are over the lower tow limit. So if you have a car that has a 3000kg GVW and towing limits of 1200kg and 1400kg the VIN plate GTW will read 4200kg. If you decided to tow a caravan weighing 1400kg, then the GVW of the car reduces to 2800kg. Legally speaking none of the plated weights should ever be exceeded. The towing limits are warranty limits and in themselves aren't legal limits. If Skoda suspected that you'd exceeded their towing limits they might refuse warranty cover for a repair. HTH

Our 2013 Citigo Elegance 75PS 5 door manual is my runabout, but in 18 months ownership I've only done 2,500 miles. It's zero VED, but in its one service, MOT (Passed) and cam belt/waterpump change it's cost £830 plus insurance at £450 for two years, that's 51p a mile without the cost of fuel (averaging 50mpg) or depreciation. If I did more miles it would be worth keeping but really she has to go. A shame because it's a lovely little car in virtually as new condition. When I drive it the performance and handling reminds me of my 1964 1071cc Cooper S 267WYC that I last saw sometime in 1974. The 2018 Karoq SE L 1.5 DSG is our main car and also tows our 1250kg ish caravan. It's a lovely car but I'm not happy with its pulling away capability when towing. It's not bad but could be better, more torque is needed. And I hanker back to our 1.2 SE Drive Yeti DSG which we ran 2017 t0 2020, not for towing but for its character. So I've been looking out for a 2017 Yeti 2 litre DSG. Last weekend I thought I'd found one not that far away. High miles (88K) but with fitted towbar and reversing camera, my ideal spec. Things were going fine, the dealer supplied the car's service history, DSG services to the book, The first Haldex service had been missed and done a bit earlier than the second was due and the garage agreed to do another before handover. I didn't reserve the car, but told the dealership I would visit to view the next day. An hour after emailing that, I got a response saying the car was sold. Gutted. So is my plan sensible? To sell the Citigo and keep looking for a 2017 2 litre 150PS DSG Yeti or are there alternatives?

I noticed quite a loud noise the other day, just after starting the car and it disappeared when I floored the clutch pedal. The car had just had a new cambelt so I was concerned that something was amiss. I went back to the dealership (10 miles) and by the time I got there the noise had almost disappeared. The tech who'd done the cambelt and the service manager checked out the car and said the level of noise they were hearing was normal for a Citigo. To prove it they got the keys of two 18 plate Citigo's that were on the forecourt and truth be told the sound was identical to mine as it was when warmed up. Of course the only way for them to hear it when it's cold is to leave the car with them overnight. Now it could be that the car has always made the noise when cold but I normally drive straight off somewhere and rarely idle the car straight after starting. Also, because you have to floor the clutch to start the car, you won't hear the noise unless you then release the clutch pedal. So the noise might have been there ever since I got the car but I've not ever let the clutch up before moving off.