Gmac983

I have this electronic child lock error also on a 20MY Kodiaq. It start after changing the lock solenoid on that door after it failed. Original part no. has been superseded twice since car was built. Hawco Skoda parts department were kind enough to tell me the compatible part numbers one of which I purchased and fitted my self, was a fairly straightforward job to do just had to be careful with all the clips etc. Anyway after installing new lock solenoid the central locking on that door was back in action and is working normally however I have this electronic child lock error coming up on the dash. Is there any way to clear or fix or switch this off. Hawco want £100 fee just to plug the car in. Certainly don’t want to pay main dealer rates to have them strip the door down and fit another new lock solenoid. Any ideas? Thanks very much 👍 PS Child lock on that door isn’t working. No battery issues as others here seem to have had.

I wouldn’t say tracking your whereabouts or miles clocked up is necessary. Or indeed barring after market modifications. Just taxing the kilowatts used to charge your vehicle and a rebate on that if vehicle 2 home or vehicle 2 load is used and/or a higher rate of tax on fast charging. At the end of the day current fuel duty makes a far greater contribution to government purse than road tax.

The vehicles themselves need to be taxed equally as they are all taking up space on the road and causing wear and tear on the road network. Traditionally as others have said if you are a high miler then you use more fuel and therefore pay more tax if you use less you pay less tax. Why not introduce a card or an app that basically is required to “un-lock” the vehicle and allow it to be charged (or an add on to the myriad charging apps already out there) so when charging the vehicle, tax is applied respectively and this would be at home/private charging or public equally. If charge-2-home or charge-2-load is being done then same card or app would be used to refund some of tax. As far as retrospective is concerned, a line would need to be drawn and just move forward from there. As far as I can see it would be far to complex/expensive and unfair to apply retrospectively to the early adopters of the tech as they have already payed more (for the vehicle) than comparible ICE. In any event we can speculate til dooms day, it while be those we elect who make all the wrong decisions in the end anyway.

@Stillwaitingforoctavia It does indeed look like the dealer has left themselves with no where to go but pay you what you’ve already agreed with them. In my experience of ordering vehicles with long lead times the dealer has always clearly marked the part-ex’ price as an estimate only so they have wiggle room for depreciation and market trends. TBH the dealer shouldn’t be too put out about this anyway as the used market is so strong right now they will have no trouble selling your old car on with a good margin for themselves and still honour your agreement. 👌

Good to know! I think they would be breaking their own t&cs so would be prepared to walk away. But we’ve been waiting so long I’d be upset to have to do this! Is the trade-in figure quoted on the original order form noted there as an estimated value or a guaranteed figure without an expiration date? Check the t&c’s very carefully. I wouldn’t think the dealer would be foolish enough to commit themselves to a figure more than a year in advance of delivery. Just to confirm, your not talking about a final value on a PCP arrangement are you? But just a straight forward trade-in.

Dealer will likely have only guaranteed your trade-in price for a very short period of time. Or perhaps given you a projected estimate (though I doubt they would have committed themselves to anything even off-the-record) Whatever,you will definitely be way beyond that now. However as @roottoot has said. Used prices are very strong right now so go in swinging!… Maybe 10 years or so ago when I was taking delivery of a Yeti, the dealer (AC) tried to pull a fast one on the trade-in price on the day I was collecting the car, car was sitting ready with my plates on it (was something like 8>9 months delivery)… Stood up, walked out and drove away, salesboy that I was dealing with was in tears, less than 10 mins later sales manager phoned me with a much more sensible offer and the deal was then completed. So short answer is kick the **** out of them! edit: not literally of course 🤣

Am also considering these but there seems to be bits-n-pieces on the web about reliability of their dry clutch autos (hybrid or otherwise). Is anyone able to elaborate on this further?

ANCEL VD500 Pro OBD2 I can recommend the above device. I have it myself and it works well. I bought mainly for the extra VAG only functions, for example resetting/service position for EPB but also will read codes on any OB2 vehicle. Is on the ‘jungle’ website just at £69.99 Worth a look. edit: I am using on a 2019 (20MY) Kodiaq.

@wyx087 I don’t won’t seem negative about heat pumps as there some success stories out there. Would just like to hear of some more happy customers rather than all the negative ones I am aware off. My parents are currently weighing up there options on this as are currently off grid gas and have solar installed already. Also it is something my wife and I are looking aswell but do not want to make the level of investment currently require for this on a home we will not likely stay in for the rest of our lives.

Is smaller bore pipe work not a requirement of this also? Is underfloor heating not widely accepted as the best use of a heat pumps?

From people who actually have them and now wish they didn’t. Also I would imagine that Norwegian houses are a tad or 3 better insulated than uk housing.

Heat pumps are well documented as being inadequate to heat homes in cooler climates(i.e not the south of England). Also very expensive to run in electric. Local authorities are forcing air source down tennants throats who now cannot afford to heat their homes sufficiently. When I use the term “off-grid” I am referring to homes not on mains gas rather than the American take on the term “off-gridders”. So many towns villages come under this umbrella so cannot have personal wind turbines to supply their electric. Solar is not affordable for many. And going back to heat source, it is grossly impractical to fit a some what efficient system to an existing/old property. Fine to do in new builds.

but… In most end of life situations isn’t it the battery pack(s) that are knackered first rather than the vehicle? So battery would have to be recycled rather than re-purposes wouldn’t it? Also what is the carbon foot print of installing the millions of charging points and storage batteries that would be needed compared to existing filling stations gradually bringing in hydrogen fuel pumps as demand requires along with hydrogen production hubs. Allowing consumers to continue refuelling their cars as they are accustomed to without range anxiety or availability of charge points and charge time limits. Also off grid homes (gas or oil) can use hydrogen to heat their homes (replacing oil or gas) rather than electricity to directly heat their homes. Another consideration is employment. Which would be the better long term employer? Hydrogen production and distribution or charge point infrastructure and storage batteries?

Have you actual figures that demonstrate the differences in loses here? Between green hydrogen produced close to source then distributed via pumping or by shipping or by road as we currently do things to an already existing infrastructure and work force. Compared to transmitting electricity one end of the country to the other to be stored in batteries that are not green to produce and worse to recycle and finally distributed to vehicle charging network that doesn’t exist yet.

Well yes the warning light should come on at or just under minimum. I think what others are asking is have you had fluctuations in coolant level (between max/min) when you routinely check your engine fluid levels. If it is a failed head gasket then it could be pressurising your coolant system, rather than just losing coolant. Rather less severely it could be a leaking/cracked thermostat or thermostat gasket. I had that on a tdi once and it only leaked as the engine was warming up, once at normal temp it didn’t leak at all, so could take several journeys to bring the coolant down below minimum. Whatever it is good luck.